Author Topic: Trigger ,hammer issue (Read 2659 times)

Maineshops · « **on:** March 22, 2020, 04:02:53 PM »

Got the lock and trigger inletted in one of my guns. Double set trigger . Can’t cock the hammer wwithout setting the set trigger first. If I get the triggers set into where I can cock the hammer it won’t release the hammer. Can’t seem to find the sweet spot. Need some wisdom from you folks in the know......Dan

scottmc · « **Reply #1 on:** March 22, 2020, 04:23:40 PM »

I just been through the same thing on the past two guns. Your trigger spring tension is over riding your sear spring tension, probably. Try loosening the the screw holding your trigger spring to the plate a quarter turn at a time. It worked for me on davis triggers. I'm building a gun right now for a guy and he gave me an italian set trigger to install. Total junk and the spring was so tense and arched, I couldn't do anything with it without having a new spring made. So i got a Davis and have inlet that. Not quite done yet but I can tell will work well.

scottmc · « **Reply #2 on:** March 22, 2020, 04:30:33 PM »

Oh, and perhaps your set trigger bar height is to high. When your lock is on half cock and your triggers are set, the bar should not be touching the sear. If it is, that could be restricting your sear from engaging in the tumbler notches.

EC121 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 22, 2020, 05:25:05 PM »

Put a screw under the mainspring at its high point. This will release some tension, give some clearance, and let the spring "throw" the trigger bar into the sear bar. A shim will also work, but I use a 4-40 screw. Not PC, but I have used a set screw. It will disappear into the trigger plate. You could also use any type of longer screw and cut it off flush with the plate once you get it adjusted.

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #4 on:** March 22, 2020, 07:57:52 PM »

Set triggers almost all need some judicious filing to adjust the spring's tension and angle of strike. Also, the point of contact of the spring on the setting trigger is important...again, judicious filing/stoning/polishing. The stopper screw under the leaf of the spring also works, as described above by EC121.

Maineshops · « **Reply #5 on:** March 22, 2020, 10:13:10 PM »

Messed with it a couple hours today. I have a couple issues going on. One the lock functions fine out of the stock but is not reliable when set in the stock. I seem to have enough clearance for all the parts to function. I’m missing something I guess. Sure glad I have this group to make up for my ineptitude
Once I get that issue figured out I’ll work on the spring tension. Fun to learn new stuff

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #6 on:** March 22, 2020, 10:17:19 PM »

One thing that is not always obvious when a lock fails to work nicely while IN the wood: the end of the sear bar often is too long and bears against the bottom of the hole for it. Most of these sear arms are too long and can be shortened quickly and easily on a grinder. Also, there must be sufficient clearance all the way around the sear so it cannot possibly have interference from wood.

greybeard · « **Reply #7 on:** March 22, 2020, 10:41:01 PM »

On this set of triggers you can see that the height of the triggers have been ground in the middle to lower the contact point where the triggers contact the sear bar.. Bob

chubby · « **Reply #8 on:** March 23, 2020, 01:17:06 AM »

Some double set triggers have to be set first!! before cocking. Chubby

Daryl · « **Reply #9 on:** March 23, 2020, 11:06:37 PM »

I think what chubby means, is some double set triggers are single throw, not double throw.
If the front trigger of a 'set' has only a short catch notch, and not an "arm", it is a single throw, double set trigger.

chubby · « **Reply #10 on:** March 24, 2020, 01:52:26 AM »

Thanks Daryl, forgot to mention that Chubby

Maineshops · « **Reply #11 on:** March 25, 2020, 12:42:48 AM »

Yo Chubby...pretty great on this but if I understand some triggers you can trip the hammer with either trigger? It just takes more pressure on the sear bar with the front trigger without setting the back trigger?

scottmc · « **Reply #12 on:** March 25, 2020, 03:12:11 AM »

Maybe I can clarify. A double set trigger you can fire using eirher the front trigger or by setting the back trigger and then causing the front trigger to be very light.
A single set trigger is what chubby is talking about where you have to set the rear trigger before firing the front trigger. The front trigger does not have a bar that allows you to fire but only has a notch that catches and engaging the rear trigger. I hope that makes sense to you.

chubby · « **Reply #13 on:** March 25, 2020, 03:32:21 AM »

Scottmc, you are right on. Track sells them, there are pictures of all the trigger sets Chubby

Maineshops · « **Reply #14 on:** March 26, 2020, 01:15:43 AM »

Back at it. Had to help a neighbor. scottmac that helps me understand the principle of the mechanism of the combination. I’ll put some putty on the sear and see how much clearance I have between the two. First I need to resolve the problem of the lock function out and in the wood .just got my second trigger from TOW so I can do some comparison.fun stuff and I enjoy the journey more than the destination and thanks much for helping a new guy. Dan

Scota4570 · « **Reply #15 on:** March 26, 2020, 02:18:55 AM »

The sear bar should be positioned near the intersection of the tops of the front and rear triggers.

Remove the spring that acts on the rear trigger. Does the front trigger have a little play before it touches the sear bar? It should. If it is bearing hard on the sear bar the trigger is too high or the plate is inletted too deep.

Put the rear trigger's spring back in . For diagnostic purposes shim the trimmer plate away from the trigger bar. Maybe use some cardboard cut to fit. That should cause the rear trigger to not put force on the trigger bar while un-set. IF the triggers then function normally that tells you that they were inletted too deep or the rear trigger is being pushed too far by it's spring.

What to do? If the position of the front trigger alone was good then The rear trigger should not pushed way forward and up by the trigger mainspring. As mentioned earlier a screw that limits how far the spring acts on the rear trigger will fix this. Screw it in so the spring only acts on the rear trigger for a short strong push. The momentum then carries it up and into the sear bar.

Maineshops · « **Reply #16 on:** March 26, 2020, 11:44:23 PM »

Ok folks....found the problem. Worked on it a couple more hours and got to thinking...I have 3 of these durs egg locks lets do some comparisons. There was just enough left of that nub so it would catch once in awhile especially half cock.
I got the 4-40 tapped into the trigger plate and messed with that for a bit.
Big question is did I cause that. It is a new lock other than me mucking with it.
What do you call that part so I can order one.
I even oiled the heck out of it thinking that might be the problem which brings up the question, what did the old timey guys use for lube on this stuff. Dan

EC121 · « **Reply #17 on:** March 26, 2020, 11:55:43 PM »

Is that the sear nose that broke off? If so, the part is called a sear.

Maineshops · « **Reply #18 on:** March 27, 2020, 01:23:22 AM »

It is the projection that engages that lock mechanism. I found a good breakdown of the parts on tote.and it is the sear. I’ll learn the nomenclature but remembering it is another issue. I have a good memory it’s just awful short. Dan

Scota4570 · « **Reply #19 on:** March 27, 2020, 06:19:10 PM »

Looks like the sear nose possibly busted off by crashing into the half cock notch because the fly was missing or shaped wrong. Some of the sear noses are made too thin for the job and can not take the stress. IF someone pulled the trigger hard at half cock the sear nose could have broken off from that cause.

577SXS · « **Reply #20 on:** March 27, 2020, 08:42:39 PM »

I just went through the same issues inletting a double set trigger. I ground and filed until there wasn't much left of the triggers and then bent the sear bar up to get enough clearance. If you have to set trigger before you cock it its not adjusted right. If you can't set trigger when cocked its because the front trigger is riding up against the sear bar and not allowing you to set trigger. This could cause and AD. The gun should fire with either being set or not. Pain to lower the cock if trigger is set, an easy way to have an AD. I've built two guns with set triggers and even though I like them I'll be doing simple single triggers from now on.

Maineshops · « **Reply #21 on:** March 29, 2020, 01:22:57 AM »

While waiting for a new sear I thought I would look into the root of the thing and see what caused the issue. Someone mentioned that the fly has a point and it should be down. As shown in the picture I dont see a point on this fly. Tow don’t show a picture of the fly in their breakdown for the durs egg lock.
I messaged L&R for some guidance and got no response. Sure like to get the cause of the problem so I can prevent it from. Happening again. Dan

Maineshops · « **Reply #22 on:** March 29, 2020, 01:29:20 AM »

I might mention that I just inletted the second lock and trigger assembly and it works quite well so the issue seems to be unique to the other lock and trigger combination. The original one has been working for years without a hitch also .puzzled Dan

Daryl · « **Reply #23 on:** March 29, 2020, 03:42:43 AM »

You are right - that one does not have any sort of point. Most do. Seems to me the Durrs Egg lock has a pointed fly, same as their Dickert lock.

BOB HILL · « **Reply #24 on:** March 29, 2020, 07:32:08 AM »

Maineshop, give Bill at L&R a call during business hrs and explain your problem. He will be glad to help you out. I don’t think they’re in on Saturday. That doesn’t look like a Durs Egg fly
Bob

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Author Topic: Trigger ,hammer issue (Read 2659 times)

greybeard

chubby

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