Should I remove flintlock when cleaning?

[AZshot]

Hi, I've only shot percussion before.  Now I have a flintlock long rifle.  It's got a lot more smoke and sooting at the lock.  Should I be we worried about behind the lock being dirty?  I don't want to have to remove the lock plate unless I have to, but is it usually done?  Or just once in a while? 

[MuskratMike]

Every answer will probably be different on this question.
I remove the lock each and every time. I run the lock under barely warm water scrubbing it with an old tooth brush. I can now wipe the exterior of the barrel and wood around the lock area without getting the wood overly wet. After the lock has dried I give it a very light spray with original WD-40, wipe the excess and reinstall into the rifle with its clean barrel.
God bless, and be safe out there.
"Muskrat" Mike

[Dave Marsh]

I do the same as Mike every time I shoot.

Dave

[EC121]

Percussion or flint doesn't matter.  I remove the lock every time.  Run it under the well water(it is close to the shop) and clean it.  I keep an old toothbrush on the well house roof.  A little Barricade and grease when it is dry and that is it for the lock.  I clean the barrel while the lock is drying.

[Daryl]

I remove the flint locks for cleaning just about as muskrat does, however I remove the barrels for cleaning,
in a container of water, whether they have pins or wedges.
I do not remove my cap lock as the barrel has a drip rail and zero fouling gets inside. The hammer
is easily cleaned on the gun.

[smylee grouch]

I don,t know how you could clean the inside of the lock when still on the gun. Removing the lock should be a lot easier than say removing a pinned barrel. I remove mine and when done FLUSH with WD 40, let drain well then air blast and replace. I use room temp tap water to clean lock and barrel.

[Daryl]

Sry, Smlyee. I don't have to clean the inside of the cap lock. It never gets dirty with fouling. I thought I noted that.

[Smokey Plainsman]

I remove the lock each time and use meese milk (if the plural of goose is “geese”, then the plural of moose is “meese”).

I produce a spurt upon the lock from the bottle, and use a Q’s Tip to enswabbern the inside bits.

A jigger of Ballistic Oil (Ballistol) ensure no rust encroach about the lock.

[alacran]

I always remove the flint locks for cleaning. I don't see any need to clean the internals with water as no fowling gets in the lock.
When back east I remove the frizen spring and the frizen. Fowling gets in the threads of the frizen screw and below the spring.. If the frizen is bridled that area accumulates fowling. Like Daryl I do not remove the locks on my cap guns, to clean. I remove them once a year to lube them.

[AZshot]

Thanks all, I guess I'll take the lock off today then.  The bore is clean.

[OldMtnMan]

I agree with taking off the lock every time I clean.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

On all my muzzle loading guns, the lock comes off first, then the barrel.  Both are cleaned with water, dried, and oiled and reassembled.  every time.

[Marcruger]

I remove mine each time, and clean it.  If nothing else, you need to get whatever fouling worked its way down between the barrel and pan.  I spray mine down with CLP, scrub it with a toothbrush and Q-Tips, and let it drain on a paper towel.  No excuse for a rusty lock.   

To take the lock out, unscrew the bolts about 3/4 of the way, and use the heads to press the lock free.  Then unscrew the rest of the way.

God Bless,   Marc

[smallpatch]

Ditto, remove and clean every time.

[Greg Pennell]

Don’t forget to re-grease the heavy wear points on your lock before you put it back on the rifle. I use a synthetic grease I get from Brownells...a 2 ounce jar will last forever. I use a toothpick to please a small amount on the toe of the frizzen where it contacts the frizzen spring, the tumbler where the mainspring contacts, and try and work a bit between the tumbler and plate.  Mr. Chambers has stated in the past that the vast majority of lock problems can be prevented with a little grease.

Greg

[Mike from OK]

I pull the lock, wash with tepid water and a toothbrush, pat dry, blow on it to push any accumulated water out of the nooks and crannies of the internals, douse it down with WD 40 LTCI, and wipe it down.

Mike

[OldMtnMan]

Have we all ever agreed on anything before? I'm surprised nobody said they don't pull the lock.

There's hope for us after all. 

[AZshot]

I remove mine each time, and clean it.  If nothing else, you need to get whatever fouling worked its way down between the barrel and pan.  I spray mine down with CLP, scrub it with a toothbrush and Q-Tips, and let it drain on a paper towel.  No excuse for a rusty lock.   

To take the lock out, unscrew the bolts about 3/4 of the way, and use the heads to press the lock free.  Then unscrew the rest of the way.

God Bless,   Marc

Thanks, removing the lock from a well fitting stock was my worry.  I figured I could use the screw trick, but only one screw.  Also, I saw enough loose lock plates on originals in my day...I don't want to loosen up my nice fit.  But I'll take a look at it today.

I emailed Don too, he said to set the trigger so the lock will clear that.  I need to remember that. 

[OldMtnMan]

I wouldn't say a lock that's hard to get out is a nice fit.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

 Should I remove flintlock when cleaning?  Do you remove your underwear before you clean them?

[OldMtnMan]

Should I remove flintlock when cleaning?  Do you remove your underwear before you clean them?

It depends on whether a creek is nearby or not.

[AZshot]

Well I pulled the lock out and it was clean as a whistle.  Much ado about nothing I suppose. 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

That's good.  It could easily have been otherwise.  If it were mine, I would continue this practice to ensure the inside of the lock stays bright.  It's also easier to clean the outside that way.

[OldMtnMan]

If nothing else it needs to be lubed. So, two reasons to pull it.

[AZshot]

... It's also easier to clean the outside that way.

Wait, you're supposed to clean the outside?