soldering thimbles

[T*O*F]

Ive got 6 of these to solder the tabs together.  Before I start, I thought I'd check to see if anyone has a nifty idea for doing them.  The fact that they are steel makes them a bit harder than brass ones.  Also, how to clamp without using the clamp as a heat sink.  Trying for minimal cleanup afterwards.  It's almost a 3 handed job.

My thoughts:
Clean and degrease
Apply flux inside with a toothpick.
Clamp with a pair of needlenose pliers.
Lay a piece of solder in the inside groove.
Heat until the solder runs between the tabs.

[Robby]

Yep, just as you said. Always works for me.
Robin

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Dave, I do as you have described, but I use a very small pair of ViceGrip pliers.  And I silversolder, which is overkill, I think. 

[Bob McBride]

I use one or two fine needle nose pliers with the handles wrapped in wire to hold them closed. They tend to stick a bit but it works. I use silver solder as well. Lay a few pieces on the closed gap. Also, I find rubbing flux into the gap with a finger works just fine. It'll flow in and coat the flats in the gap.

[rich pierce]

I take 2 pieces of narrow tile and use them as vise jaw pads. Takes 3 hands though to get it set up.

[PIKELAKE]

I use hemostats.... one on each end to be soldered; they make nice little clamps.  JZ

[Lucky R A]

     Flux your joint area, apply a hemostat (AKA roach clip) to each end of the pipe.  Hold one of the hemostats in your vice positioning the pipe with the tab down.  Lay a piece of solder wire inside the pipe at the joint and then heat until the solder flows down into the joint.  Solder may drip out the bottom, so make arrangements to collect it before it ruins a floor. (I have a cement floor in my shop, so no problem)

Ron

[flehto]

I clamp both ends of the tabs but only on the corners, apply some borax flux into the groove  in the ID  and lay 2 lengths of 1/16 dia  hi temp silver solder in or near the groove. Heat w/ a Mapp Gas torch concentrating on the outside bottom. This allows a tab that's only 1/2" long. Don't like long slots in the web.....Fred

[StevenV]

What size are the pipes/thimbles and is your only reason to solder to keep the tabs tight?  NO need to solder, I don't solder my thimbles/pipes and they are tight.     Steve

[Dennis Glazener]

Ive got 6 of these to solder the tabs together.  Before I start, I thought I'd check to see if anyone has a nifty idea for doing them.  The fact that they are steel makes them a bit harder than brass ones.  Also, how to clamp without using the clamp as a heat sink.  Trying for minimal cleanup afterwards.  It's almost a 3 handed job.

My thoughts:
Clean and degrease
Apply flux inside with a toothpick.
Clamp with a pair of needlenose pliers.
Lay a piece of solder in the inside groove.
Heat until the solder runs between the tabs.

IF I solder mine I use 1/32 silver solder that I have. I clean metal with 100 grit paper then I clamp as little of the tab in my vise as I can and still hold tab closed. I use a small screwdriver to sprinkle powdered flux inside along joint. Then lay a straight piece of 1/32 silver solder in joint. Heat with torch until solder flows. Let cool and cleanup inside with small round file.
Dennis

[Greg Pennell]

I always solder mine, just because. I flux, clamp the tabs together with a small vise grip pliers, then put the pliers in the vise so it’s easy to get the torch flame around the pipe. Place a small piece of “silver bearing” solder inside, and heat it up until it flows.  Quick and easy, brass or steel.

Greg

[StevenV]

I just so happen to be making pipes this weekend. These have not been soldered. If 3/8” pipe form it around 3/8” dowel , then hammer on over sized rod thru it. Obviously while the tabs to the pipe are held tightly in a vice. For 3/8” over size is .391 and for 5/16” pipes over size is .323 . Brass or iron. StevenV

[Curtis]

TOF - I often work a little low temp solder paste (the kind with the flux in it) in between the CLEAN tabs, clamp with a hemostat or a pair of needle nose pliers, and hit it with a torch.  Plenty strong for the task.  I use an acid brush, small screw driver or anything handy to work the solder in the joint.  The method you described in your original post works well too.

Curtis

[T*O*F]

I like the hemostat idea.  Frees up both hands.  I've got one around here somewhere that I haven't seen in many years.  If I'm lucky, I can find it.  Otherwise it's the needle nose.

[BJH]

Dave, I’d just take a folded piece I abrasive paper, and clean the joint by pulling the folded paper between the halves. The flux while they are still a bit open. Grasp the tab by the smallest practical corner in the vise, heat and solder, grab the free end with needle nose pliers while the solder is still molten. Hold till it sets in ten or fifteen seconds or so. I trim the tabs back from the ends of the pipes so if the joint is starved where the vise pinched the corner, no biggie anyhow. BJH

[Blacksmoke]

Hi guys,  When I solder the tabs together I use a small "C" clamp which is held in the bench vice. Then I heat the rest of the 'C" clamp so it does not act like a heat sink. Silver solder now can flow evenly.   Hugh Toenjes

[Jim Kibler]

Here's something to consider.  Soldering pipes is pretty much standard when building recreations, but I don't believe original pipes were ever soldered.  Or perhaps virutually never...  When I've made pipes without soldering. I've clamped the tabs closed and then heated the pipe while around the mandrel to avoid spring back when the clamps are released.

JIm

[DBoone]

During my years of restoration I never saw an original with soldered pipes.  I have never soldered pipes on any of my guns.  If I make an entry thimble it is one piece.  Just my thoughts.

[smart dog]

Hi,
On several of my original English fowlers the forward pipes are made from sheet metal and the tabs are not soldered.  However, on the silver mounted gun, the rear pipe tang is cast and soldered on a sheet pipe.  The cast tang has the advantage of being thicker, less springy, and allows a rear tooth to be filed in place to anchor the rear of the tang in the wood.

dave

[flinchrocket]

A few wraps of mechanics wire on each end of the thimble will hold the gap closed while soldering. Twist the ends of the wire tight when you have the thimble squeezed together.

[BOB HILL]

Why are you soldering them?
Bob

[T*O*F]

Why are you soldering them?

Because I don't own a spot welder.