It's best to do a good study of existing fine locks of similar size as far as the angles of the tumbler notches, how you time the cock by where you set the square hole, stops for the cock and bridle, and leverage for the tumbler nose. Pryor Mountain Bill's book has general pattern sketches, but the detail is not fine. JHAT 1 has a lot of proportions for locks that are helpful. The specifics of timing of the notches, sear length, sear nose/arm ratio, etc are critical else you can end up with a mainspring protruding below the lockplate when fired, sear arm height not constant at half and full cock, a tendency for the sear to fall into the half cock notch, etc. I'd make a working model from thin plexiglass or something before committing to steel. I'm quite sure the old lockmakers used templates in copper or brass sheet for their locks.