White Lightnin' Location

[Potsy]

Was going to mark the touch hole location and inlet the lock (Chambers Round Faced English).  I didn't really like the vent liner I had (I think it was an Ampco), so I ordered the Chambers.  Plan is to mark the barrel, inlet the lock plate/pan, install the touchhole liner.

Chambers recommended the 3/8" version for barrels 1-1/16" or greater.  My C weight Rice roughly measured that where it needs to go, so I ordered it.
First, I wish I had ordered the 1/4" model, as there would be a bit more play on the flat, not too concerned about it, if I need it after I get the lock inletted, I can order it (hope not too).  I'm just curious if there's any reason to not use the smaller liner in the future.  Any thoughts?

Second, I've read the touchole should be located anywhere from 1/8" to 1/4" ahead of the breech plug face.  Given that the Chambers model is 3/8", that puts me 3/16" ahead of the face (likely add 1/32" JUUUUSSST to be sure I don't hit the plug), anything I'm not thinking of here?

Last, was going to mark at the centerline of the barrel and inlet the lock plate with the mark on the topline of the pan.  Pretty sure I've got that right, just wanted to double check.

Thanks!!!

I'm probably WAY overthinking this, but after the "dovetail in the waist" debacle, I'm treading pretty carefully.

[WKevinD]

Locate and draw the barrel/ramrod web before you position and inlet your lock. The breech plug should be removed when you drill for the liner.
Kevin

[Potsy]

I knew to locate the web for the front lock screw, but I've never heard to remove the plug for installing the liner.

I figured I'd drill, tap, counter sink, then blow/wash out the chips with water and air, oil the inside of the barrel and install the liner.  It makes sense though.  If I get into the plug threads just a touch, I'm not chewing into the plug with the bit.

[B.Habermehl]

I would go with a 1/4 inch or 5/16 liner, rather than the big 3/8 liner. This way you have some alternative liners to use if you have a drilling or tapping issue. Plus I’m not a fan of having a goodly piece of white stainless steel looking at me even when the pan is closed. BJH

[577SXS]

Potsy,

Send me your address and I'll send you a 1/4" White Lightning. I have several and not going to use them. I prefer the 5/16".

Sam

[TommyG]

There are many good reasons for removing the breach plug when installing the liner, one of which is you usually will end up with a small burr from where your drill breaks thru.  You want to remove that burr using needle file, stone, etc.. or it will end up snagging your patch when cleaning. 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

It is sometimes necessary too, to remove the extra length of the thread journal of the liner that protrudes into the bore.  I use a ball grind stone on a Dremel rotary tool, reaching in from the breech end of course.

[Craig Wilcox]

I'm with Taylor on that.  I think that's the reason Dremel came out with that ball cutter.  I even have a diamond one.  Good luck with your project, and glad to see you are thinking ahead.

[J. Talbert]

I've always used the 1/4 inch liner just because they have always worked great, and I never saw the need for anything bigger.
Also like Taylor I always remove the breech plug when installing the liner so that I can clean up the inside of the bore, and I also do so with a burr on a Dremel tool.

Jeff

[Not English]

I agree with BJH. I don't like the stainless on a brown barrel. I use the ampco because it will turn brown from use. I usually open up the touch hole a bit after it's installed. The only time you saw silver touch holes on original guns was if they used platinum liners. Stainless works god for that. I also don't like the screw driver slot that is sometimes left with some touch hole liners.

[Daryl]

The OP noted white lightning liner position - they do not have screw-driver slots
at least those sold by Jim.

[WKevinD]

Also to note Chambers liners are available in stainless or carbon steel to match barrel finishes!
Kevin