Brass repair question

[Jerry V Lape]

I need to add a little brass on the edge of the buttplate notch for the patchbox.  I am not versed welding, brazing etc. and would appreciate a little education.  the repair is to fill a gap of approx. 1/16" so the notch and the patchbox lid don't have a gap between them.

[Mike Brooks]

I need to add a little brass on the edge of the buttplate notch for the patchbox.  I am not versed welding, brazing etc. and would appreciate a little education.  the repair is to fill a gap of approx. 1/16" so the notch and the patchbox lid don't have a gap between them.

Soft solder in
 a little of what ever the buttplate is made out of.

[rmnc3r]

May be easier to screw and glue in a shim of wood on the butt to fill the gap?

[Jerry V Lape]

Wood won't address the problem.  It is the edge of the butt plate where the cut through for the patch box lid closes onto the butt plate. I will try Mike Brooks suggestion.  Had hoped to learn that maybe a welding type would let a small bead of brass to be deposited which I could then file to properly fit. 

[577SXS]

Someone that can Tig weld could fix your problem. I had a local guy Tig a brass trigger guard for me and it came out nicely. With Tig you have much more control than a torch and you don't need flux because it is gas shielded.

[Robby]

I have successfully used brazed to weld a trigger guard back together after sectioning out the bow, and a right hand cast brass patch box lid that I made into a left hand lid. Maybe I was just lucky, i got it up to heat and when things started flowing I kept the torch and rod moving heaping it on so I would have enough to file back, It worked. Not for the faint of heart but it is doable. Good luck!!!!!
Robby

[bama]

If you achieve a good fit between the two pieces you will not see the joint if you soft solder as Mike suggests. It’s low temperature so you don’t mess up any metal and if you don’t do it right it’s easily removed with no damage.

[Lucky R A]

     If your final finish will be an aged or antique look you can just put a drop or two of solder and shape it fill the gap.  When you later darken the brass the repair will disappear since it is so small.
Ron

[Dave B]

I would think you could stretch the metal on both pieces to close the gap if it is only 1/16. I have seen evedence of this very thing on some originals when they want to make a shape change its out with the cross peen hammer. just make sure your finished surface is against a polished surface and you will be amazed at how quick and simple stretching can be done.

[Gaeckle]

I would think you could stretch the metal on both pieces to close the gap if it is only 1/16. I have seen evedence of this very thing on some originals when they want to make a shape change its out with the cross peen hammer. just make sure your finished surface is against a polished surface and you will be amazed at how quick and simple stretching can be done.

I'm thinking likewise, however, make sure you annealed the brass you wish to stretch before starting. I have some original brass butt plates that show this from the underside.

[Jerry V Lape]

Well I followed Mike's advice and cut the small piece to replace about three times longer than needed just to be able to handle it.  Tinned both the buttplate surface and the chip then with the buttplate still hot pressed the chip into position. I did use a silver bearing solder though.  Once filed to final shape the solder seam is invisible.  And the repair is strong.  Worked a lot better than I had expected.