Warped forend/barrel channel on precarve kit

[Cossack]

I'm posting photos to follow up.

I clamped the stock in the vise and used wood scraps to bend the forend, going a little past straight:


I heated it with a heat gun on a low setting, moving constantly to avoid scorching. I got the wood very hot to the touch. I'm not sure how long I was heating it - at least five minutes, but less than ten I'd guess.

After it cooled, I removed the blocks. As you can see, it's improved, but not perfect yet.


Here's the "before" shot again, for comparison.

[smallpatch]

So leave the barrel in there for a while.

[Cossack]

So leave the barrel in there for a while.

Roger. That's the plan.

[Top Jaw]

Your wood blocks may have been acting like a bit of a heat sink for that section near the end. I would try it again and maybe use a couple of longer adjustable metal bolts sticking out from a block of wood mounted on your bench extended to the appropriate length.  Maybe a little farther bend this time.  Water won’t hurt and may help the process.  After the second heating, place the barrel in the stock (hot warm barrel would be better) and add three or 4 thicker zip ties or metal strap clamps.

[Not English]

It looks to me like you've got it pretty straight judging by your second set of photos. I wouldn't bother doing any more. By the time you've sanded down the forestock and done any carving or anything, there won't be much left to the stock. Just remember to keep the barrel in the stock whenever possible. It doesn't have to be pinned or under lugs used yet. Small 2" - 3" C clamps will work great in the meantime.

[Cossack]

I finally got the barrel inlet to the point where I can stick it in last night. It's still a tight squeeze to get it in, so no clamps are necessary yet. The slight curve made it a bear to get in. As you can perhaps see, there's a little wave to it, so it's not even a straight curve. I ended up overdoing it in spots and have some slight gaps between the wood and barrel. But now it's resting with the barrel in place unless I have it out to work on it - I'm still moving the barrel back slightly to make room for the touch hole liner.

How tightly should one inlet barrels? Should they just fall/lift out when the pins are removed, or do you have the wood squeezing it a bit?

[smylee grouch]

Hi Cossack, sounds like your going in the right direction. I like to get mine at what I would call a "brush" fit and use some transfer color to find any "tight" spots. Scrape just the transfer color off to get the brush fit and then go to the breech plug if the barrel is far enough back for the vent. You will have to coordinate the locks pan position with the vents position so you will be in effect inleting both somewhat at the same time. Hope that makes sense as I,m not the word smith some of the others are.