Author Topic: Ram Rods (Read 7179 times)

NJS · « **on:** May 19, 2020, 09:57:02 PM »

If using a tight pitch/ball combo in 40 caliber to squirrel hunt. What would be another good material for a ram rod other than wood? It’s ok if it’s not period correct, I’d just rather not have to worry about a rod breaking. Thank you all in advance for your help.

rich pierce · « **Reply #1 on:** May 19, 2020, 10:22:41 PM »

There’s nothing as good as hickory for strength to weight ratio. If you use a stainless loading rod cut to length it will be impossible to break but add weight right where you don’t want it.

There’s a guy here who sticks a steel insert in a wooden rod. Actually glues two halves together with steel road in the middle.

I find small calibers super easy to load with a tight combo. Last Saturday I was shooting a 451 ball and 22 thou patch in my .45 Bill Large barrel (I was pretending I was from British Columbia). Tough to start then slid easy all the way to the breech. I love choked bores.

Mike from OK · « **Reply #2 on:** May 20, 2020, 12:20:40 AM »

This never got past the idea phase so I have no idea if it would actually work or not...

The theory was to procure a suitable length of hollow brass tubing and insert a hickory dowel that matches the tube ID into it. The dowel would not be as long as the tubing... Say 3" shorter. This would leave about 1.5" on both ends. The spare space in each end would receive solid brass inserts (one or both threaded for cleaning/loading attachments) and pinned through to keep them in place. The hickory would keep the brass tube from bending/kinking/buckling and the brass tube would prevent the hickory from bending/snapping. It would be a tad bit heavier than a plain hickory rod but quite a bit lighter than a solid brass rod.

I never actually attempted it so I have no idea how it would work in practice.

I wound up just buying a hickory rod and use short strokes during loading.

Mike

smallpatch · « **Reply #3 on:** May 20, 2020, 01:28:41 AM »

I seriously don't understand everyone's concern over broken ramrods.
Most guys at our local club carry along a range rod to load with. I've been doing this for over 30 years, use a range rod to clean when at home, but have always used the rod under the barrel exclusively when shooting.
To date, I've never broken a ramrod. I have pulled an end off a couple of times trying to pull a ball, but NEVER broken one loading.
Right now, I'm shooting a .50 cal with a 5/16" ramrod. .495 ball with a .020" patch.
Just sayin'.

Daryl · « **Reply #4 on:** May 20, 2020, 01:37:17 AM »

I used 3/8" hickory for both .40 and .45 calibres with tight loads, including over bore sized balls with 10oz. (.0225") denim patching - NO Problem.
The bores on both those rifles were very smooth - no pits.
If you want a non-breakable rod, go with drill rod before stainless. Stainless is a tick more abrasive than stainless steel. 5/16" would suffice quite
well for rod dia., but of course, will be loose in 3/8" pipes. A leather pad glued into the rod groove near the muzzle will tighten the steel rod in the pipes
if you need to have it mounted on the gun.

MuskratMike · « **Reply #5 on:** May 20, 2020, 04:14:21 AM »

The other problem is if your ramrods are tapered (like mine are) and you want to use a metal rod (for what reason I am not sure) your'e going to need a lath to turn the taper in. In all the years of shooting I did damage one ramrod end by not paying attention to what I was doing. Can't see the need and like others have said if you really want to save your wood ramrods just take your range rod along with you on the trail walks.

Canuck Bob · « **Reply #6 on:** May 20, 2020, 04:22:43 AM »

My used flintlock rifle came with an aluminum rod. I don't notice the weight of the rod with it in or out. I really like the steel rod in my Enfield.

walks with gun · « **Reply #7 on:** May 20, 2020, 05:43:58 AM »

Order on of the unbreakable rods such as the ones Track of the Wolf sells, I use one for a range rod and hunting in real cold weather at times. I've had it about 25 years now and they hold up great for under $20.

NJS · « **Reply #8 on:** May 20, 2020, 06:01:38 AM »

Thanks guys for all of the great information. Perhaps I should’ve worded my question differently. I should’ve asked if there was anything better than wood. It doesn’t sound like there is.
Smallpatch, it was a concern to me because, I‘m not a competitive or target shooter. I hunt and I am fortunate enough to get to spend a lot of days in the woods. I happen to take what I do seriously and any weak link in any of my equipment is a major concern to me. I’m usually alone and if a rod was to break, I can’t just borrow one from someone else, my day would be over. I was also born with the special talent of being able to tear up an anvil with a sponge. Thanks again to everyone for their opinions, they are all very much appreciated.

JW · « **Reply #9 on:** May 20, 2020, 05:54:48 PM »

You can’t beat straight-grained hickory or ash. While hickory with a little grain run-out is usually okay if you load correctly, there is nothing better than split hickory and wood with lots of grain run out in the wrong places is problematic. The only rods I broke when I was a youngster were some crappy ramin wood that had terrible grain and my poor technique probably contributed. I prefer straight-grained hickory or ash for living history purposes, but even if I didn’t care whatsoever for material history I think I would still favor them for this application because of the combination of strength, lightness, and relative flexibility. I still hear guys insist on soaking rods in kerosene or coal oil to make them flexible. That’s silly in my opinion. Ramrods are for pushing, not hula hooping.

Tim Ault · « **Reply #10 on:** May 20, 2020, 06:02:05 PM »

What about a length of aluminum round stock ? In the proper alloy it would be very strong and lighter than brass or steel as others have mentioned

smylee grouch · « **Reply #11 on:** May 20, 2020, 06:13:33 PM »

Aluminum rods give me the willies. The ones that I have seen were roughed up from loading and the owners had muzzle wear on one side of the crown.

smallpatch · « **Reply #12 on:** May 20, 2020, 06:46:32 PM »

NJS no offense intended. Like I said, I keep a range rod in camp, but don't carry it in the field. I'm probably one of the most over equipped person you'll meet. Other than a dryball, and end of day cleaning, I just don't see the reason to worry about other ramrods.
Alacran, one of the members here, makes ramrods for under the barrel, with an ⅛" rod on the middle. That would seem like a great alternative.

canadianml1 · « **Reply #13 on:** May 20, 2020, 07:00:40 PM »

"tearing up an anvil with a sponge", ha never heard that one before. But the meaning is clear. I have known a few people who routinely manage to do it.

JW · « **Reply #14 on:** May 20, 2020, 07:22:19 PM »

I'll say it again. Straigh-grained hickory or ash is unbeatable. A metal rod or a steel insert is utterly superfluous if you load correctly with a straight-grained wooden rod.

NJS · « **Reply #15 on:** May 21, 2020, 12:24:30 AM »

Smallpatch, none was taken. Thank you and everyone else for your honest opinion!

B.Habermehl · « **Reply #16 on:** May 23, 2020, 06:10:51 PM »

I’ve used hand picked hickory rods and haven’t broken any in 20 plus years. The only rod I’ve ever broken was a delryn rod. Although I’m guilty as charged for using a stainless range rod on the square target range. The wooden rods get used for woods walks and hunting. BJH

MuskratMike · « **Reply #17 on:** May 23, 2020, 07:13:01 PM »

I too agree with the straight grained Hickory. If you live out here on the west coast finding good hickory is next to impossible. The muzzleloader shops have theirs all picked over and trying to order one from a vendor asking for straight grain is a real venture into the abyss. I have some friends back east and mid-west I call upon for replacement rods. The good news is I now have several extras as I have only broke 1 and that was due to me "yacking" to a friend instead of paying attention to my loading.

smylee grouch · « **Reply #18 on:** May 23, 2020, 07:36:01 PM »

I know of at least one shooter who went to his home building store and bought a 4 inch by 1/2 inch thick by 8 ft long hickory board, cut it into two 4 footers and made hickory splits out of them.

Mike_StL · « **Reply #19 on:** May 24, 2020, 02:56:50 AM »

We've gotten 18 replies to your question and most state that the wood ramrod is just fine if you use it correctly. But no one has stated the correct use.

I'll go back to the comment from galudwig from April 2017:
"I always use my steel range rods in the same manner as I use my wooden ones; with short controlled strokes. I don't understand why someone would believe that anyone who uses one is only concerned about speeding up the loading process? One reason I like the ball or handle-end range rods is that I can feel the powder compact as I press the ball down on top of the charge. I believe that helps me compress the powder charge more consistently.

I also prefer to keep my roundball's as round as possible, so I never pound on the ball down the barrel by ramming a range rod down on top of them. Even when using wooden ramrods in the field, I will place a piece of deer antler with a ramrod-sized hole drilled in it on the end of the ramrod to get that same "feel" for final seating of the ball on the charge. I prefer to do that over "bouncing the ramrod" when I have the time."

You will want a ball and patch combination that trends to the easier to load, especially if you are expecting more than one shot.

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #20 on:** May 24, 2020, 03:02:09 AM »

SG hit it on the head. Buy hickory boards from your local hardwood dealer, picked for grain of course, and make your own rods. Commercial rods for the most part are made by doweling sawn blanks. Grain run-out and straightness are usually catastrophic.

alacran · « **Reply #21 on:** May 27, 2020, 04:12:19 PM »

I have seen plenty of broken rods , broken by experienced shooters. Some break right behind the ramrod tip. some break at t the last 6 inches of the tapered section. Seen guys have to go back to camp on a trail walk because they tried to load a ball with too dry a patch. Couldn't move it with the wooden rod. A lot of guys carry a range rod on trail walks. A lot of guys go on and on about starting a ball easily for hunting. If you are in a rush for that 2nd shot a wood rod just might break. Long story short the only rifle I have that doesn't have a metal insert, is my flintlock target rifle. It weighs 12.25 pounds. It will never be shot any where but at the range.

Scota4570 · « **Reply #22 on:** May 28, 2020, 12:57:32 AM »

Depending on your ramrod pipes you may be able to use fiberglass covered with sticky back electrical shrink tubing. That is what Dewey uses on their steel rods. A 9mm fiberglass rod come out about 3/8 with shrink tubing applied. A 7mm might come out close the 5/16". And so on. Carbon fiber rods or tubes may also be interesting if weight is an issue.

canadianml1 · « **Reply #23 on:** May 28, 2020, 04:02:18 AM »

I can't add very much to this conversation regarding hickory ram rods but I have had plenty of experience with coated Dewey rods. My experience with Dewey rods is not all that positive. The plastic coating is easily damaged by the rifling and in key places along the rod leaves the steel exposed. The coating IMHO is just not sufficiently tough to last very long.

Daryl · « **Reply #24 on:** May 28, 2020, 08:46:15 PM »

The larger .35 cal.+ in the Dewey's are quite good, however the small calibre Dewey rods I've had, did not hold up and they were not springy at all
taking a bend if bent just a little bit with tight patches when used for cleaning.
The best loading/cleaning rods I've had, I made myself from long lengths of 3/8" 36" drill rod and 5/16" 48" stainless rod, they worked a treat.

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Author Topic: Ram Rods (Read 7179 times)

Canuck Bob