Lube for Summer and Winter Hunting

[Mike from OK]

When using Neatsfoot oil (either pre-cut patches or strips), I pour the oil into a shallow tray. Let the patches soak all they can then I squeeze them out and lay them on paper towels to soak up some of the exces. I then put the patches in a tin until ready to shoot. The strips I roll up and place in a tin also.

Thanks MM, just the info I was seeking. I'm well versed in pretreatment with Track's Mink tallow... Just wasn't sure about the NF oil. Figured it was pretty straightforward.

Mike

[Mike from OK]

I prefer pre-cuts myself, loaded in a loading block. The wooden loading block I found needs to be finished
 just as a rifle stock, so it won't absorb oil/grease from the patches.  I made a 3-shot block for my .69, and
a 10-shot block for the .36 for bunny hunting.

Pretty much what I do with my .32

It's just easier to preload everything in the block and have another shot ready for that other squirrel versus fumbling that tiny little ball out of the bottom of my pouch.

My .45 Bedford gets cut at the muzzle. But I managed to get hold of some curly maple and a bottle of Aqua Fortis... I plan to make a loading block just because.

Mike

[Daryl]

While not quite PC, an old kitchen HDPE (high density polyethylene) or UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight [poly]) cutting board material also makes a good, no-finish needing
loading block. Simply drill the correct size and then chamfer both top and bottom. Of course the board must be thick enough for this.
These are my maple loading blocks for the .69 (3 rounds) and .36 (14 rnds).

[Craig Wilcox]

I can just picture a herd of neats running around in the pasture on stumps.  Poor lil critters!  Perched on their stumps, they are at the brink of extinction, just like those various-colored Naugas, who got killed off for their hides by the automobile industry.

I am a true believer in Mink oil, and got a large jar off Amazon for a pretty low price.  Works great on patches, and is also excellent used as a waterproofer for your footwear.

[Daryl]

Ahh - the very best water-proofing agent I have EVER seen, was marmot oil. Phenominal stuff, and no need to 'try' out the fat.
use only the fat from the inside of the cavity only.  Store the handfuls of fat in zip-lock bags in the freezer. When needing to water
proof the boots, take out a 'package', remove the fat and rub it into your boots. It will then take 2 washings with dish soap to get
the oil off your hands.
PS - the outside fat or marmots and bears, makes more of a paste or tallow, suitable for patches, not as good for boots.

[Darkhorse]

For the last 2 seasons I've  used pure Canola oil as a patch lube. (I can't wait to hear Hungry Horse tell me about the flash point of canola oil) So far it's working quite well, I've taken 2 big gobblers with it so far and I like it for a warm weather lube.
I have'nt yet run it through the testing mill due to lack of time. I know that it hits to the same point of impact at 50 yards as my normal loads lubed with Mr. Flintlock's lube. The load I shoot at turkeys is 60 grains of 3f, a .395 ball, and real pillow ticking at .018 thickness. I've not shot it loaded over 60 grains.
Later on this spring, or summer, I do plan to spend a range day or two really checking out this lube and I will post my results.

[Bassdog1]

I really like mink oil for hunting but in a couple of my small bores I get the best accuracy out of a fairly thin .010 patch. Went out last night to target shoot with my .32 Seneca which likes a .010 patch and a .315 swaged ball. Used mink oil and Hoppes patch lube with 20 grains of Olde Eynsford and no difference in groups. With this combo I can load easily with wooden ramrod and short starter and shoot as long as I care to without wiping this particular gun. I guess what I am trying to say is a looser patch and ball combo does not always mean less accuracy from my experience so far.

[OldMtnMan]

Mink Oil for me year round. I use it for all my practice too. I like to keep things simple and have one load for everything.

However, I don't use it for rust protection.

Before finding and switching to Mink Oil years ago. I used bear tallow. It worked good too but I like the Mink Oil better.