Inletting a silver half dollar in a stock

[borderdogs]

Hi Guys,
I have a questions I need some help on. I want to inlet a silver half dollar in the cheek piece of the rifle I am building and I want to know if anyone has ever done something like this? And how to deal with the flat coin going into a check piece that has a radius. The first thought I had was to put a slight bend in the coin to basically follow the radius so the coin would sit flush. The other idea was to plain a flat face to diameter of the coin and inlet it flat. I practiced inletting it in a piece of maple I have and its pretty easy to do it flat. The coin I want to use is a Standing Liberty half dollar  which has a 1.205 in diameter and a thickness 0.085 in I believe the radius is  9/16"

I would appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks,
Rob

[okawbow]

I used a half dollar coin in the cheek piece of a rifle I built 45 years ago. I don't remember any problems inletting it. It was thick enough to shape with the contours of the cheek piece.

[Daniel Coats]

Consider putting a flat spot in the stock to avoid altering the coin. A smaller diameter coin would work better too. I used to like the idea of a coin inletted in the stock but wouldn't do it today because it tends to give a muzzle loader the look of a Winchester Commerative in my head . Making an inlay using a coin for sheet stock does work however.

[Top Jaw]

You didn’t mention the style rifle, or if you were using this for the silver with the coin marks removed.  But If it were mine, a period 18th or 19th century coin might be an option (but are likely too valuable for this purpose).

Although it’s a beautiful coin, I personally would not use a standing liberty coin, or any other with a 20th century date on a muzzleloading rifle.  I think it would look out of place historically and a little confusing. If you meant as a silver inlay, I don’t like to destroy older coins for this purpose.  Use a 1964 Kennedy half if you want to use a coin for an inlay. 

[alyce-james]

Good morning. In years past I used silver coins for inlays of all sizes on all my pistols. I have a 15 (fifteen) pound bench anvil. I turn the coin to sheet sizes and cut to form. At 79 years on this earth, don't do much work anymore. Ya'll have a great week. AJ.  P.S. I forgot to mention I have also put some coins on the railroad tracks. After the train passes an oval form would appear. These also would have a slight concave form which would fit the wrist areas of rifle and pistols very nicely. Some fitting required.

[borderdogs]

Top Jaw,
I should have mentioned the rifle style. Its a full stock Hawken flint in .50 a rifle I have been building for a bit. I had originally had planned on the rifle being for me but a while back I decided I would give it to my neighbor/friend who will turn 80 shortly. He and I have very similar interests and when I told him and later showed him the rifle I was building he was intrigued. He has shot all sorts of pistols and rifles but he told me he never handled a flintlock before. As we discussed the rifle he did some research on Hawken rifles and while talking once said what fun it would be to hunt with a flint.

Anyway he was born in 1940 and to commemorate his birthday I got a 1940 Standing Liberty half dollar to put on it. Although I agree with you about using a 20th century coin on a 19th century rifle I think in this case it will be ok. He has no idea that I am going to give it to him and I know he will use it.
Rob 

[Craig Wilcox]

Rob, I am curious about how you are going to retain the coin in the cheek rest,  Mostly with inlays such as this are held with small nails of the same material, and flushed with the surface.

I think if I were to do that, I would be tempted to use glue, but in very cold weather, most glues would be prone to pop loose with any bump or jar to the stock.

I collect 19th century coins, and have a lot of Morgan dollars.  Heck, I even have a $5 gold coin from the 1840's, which would be period for the Hawken FS I'm building.  It is about the diameter of a nickel, so wouldn't be difficult to inlay, but to me the coin is  worth more as a collector's item.  It is soft enough to make a nice sized sheet stock - if you don't mind halving the value of it.

[borderdogs]

Craig,
I thought of nails or even a small screw with a long shank but I think at this point I might glue it maybe an epoxy like JB.
Rob

[OLUT]

As Craig said, using some anchor point for a large inlay seems appropriate. It may be like "wearing suspenders and a belt", but to me, it offers more security. Here's what I was going to do for a silver wreath inlay in a gun that I'll never get around to building at age 79. OLD military shooting medals were sterling silver. I was going to cut the wreath out of one and remove the fastening pin BUT NOT the pin supports. After a bit of shaping they were going to provide a place for the glue to bite into to give more anchorage

[redheart]

You didn’t mention the style rifle, or if you were using this for the silver with the coin marks removed.  But If it were mine, a period 18th or 19th century coin might be an option (but are likely too valuable for this purpose).

Although it’s a beautiful coin, I personally would not use a standing liberty coin, or any other with a 20th century date on a muzzleloading rifle.  I think it would look out of place historically and a little confusing. If you meant as a silver inlay, I don’t like to destroy older coins for this purpose.  Use a 1964 Kennedy half if you want to use a coin for an inlay.

I have to agree with Top Jaw, I've seen this done quite a few times and have always thought it was a bad plan for all of the reasons he stated, I've seen very fine collectable rifles lose much of their value this way and collectors classify this kind of work as having been done by Bubba, but I guess everyone has a God given right to ruin their coins and also the appearance and historical context of their guns. I guess it's acceptable to do it to things that will never have any collector value

[canadianml1]

Bending the coin to fit the stock could be done between two shaped soft wood forms without damaging the surface detail. Putting in a single silver brad that "disappears" is another matter, but it can be done.

[AsMs]

Correct me if I am wrong but I believe you use the solid silver coin because it is silver and not German silver $#@*. You will need to pound and reshape the coin to make it the shape you wish. You do not inlet a 1935 Washington Quarter into your stock with Washington face still showing. That would not look correct. However many of these coins are so worn out with no date left and do not have much value. These coins are what should be used. Just be sure to file them smooth first.

[flehto]

First thing to do is anneal the coin by heating it red hot. If it's got serrations  on the perimeter, they should be filed off and a draft filed on. If the wood is at all hard,  the coin can be located and then taped to the stock  and using a wood block, formed to the stock contour. The  back side of the coin should also be filed flat  before forming. The easiest way to retain the coin would be to use a "V" file and shallow  groove the perimeter {doesn't have to go all around} and use an epoxy that will fill the groove and lock it in. …..Fred

[Craig Wilcox]

You could, without damaging the face, solder on a couple or 3 pins on the back.  Use your dike cutters to make a series of "teeth" on the pins, and insert them into holes a wee bit smaller than the shank of the pins.

Those 1940 half dollars are 90% silver, so worth about $8 or 9 - not losing much value even if you flattened it.  For a front sight on a rifle a few years back, I got an old British sixpence - about the size of a dime - and flattened it a bit for a front sight - but you could still see the Kings face on it.  I figured during the Rev War, some gun builder might have enjoyed beating old Georgie's face a bit.

[borderdogs]

Thanks for all the suggestions i  really appreciate all of them.
Rob

[mountainman70]

Kudos to you for what you are doing for your friend. I enjoy doing this same type thing for others. I built a halfstock rifle last year,using my brothers help. I took it up to show him Christmas,when he pulled rifle from case, it had a big red bow on it. You shoulda seen the look on his face. That's what its all about ,bro. Best regards, Dave f on the Mountain

[borderdogs]

Thanks Mountainman70
I know not only will he like the rifle but he will definitely use it and he will appreciate that I built it for him.
Rob

[rsherman]

Rob,
I would make the cheekpiece with the radius you want, then gently bend the coin to match it.
I've inlet coins and to retain it in the stock i soldered a nail on the backside after i finished inleting it. Then i drilled an oversized hole in the stock to account for missalighnment during the final attachment. I fill the hole with epoxy to retain the nail and coin then clamp it down to set.
I put a random array of mid 1800's coins in the stock of a mountain rifle i built for my cousin. He has the annoying habit of putting two dimes and a nickle down for our quarter side bets...

[Dphariss]

Hi Guys,
I have a questions I need some help on. I want to inlet a silver half dollar in the cheek piece of the rifle I am building and I want to know if anyone has ever done something like this? And how to deal with the flat coin going into a check piece that has a radius. The first thought I had was to put a slight bend in the coin to basically follow the radius so the coin would sit flush. The other idea was to plain a flat face to diameter of the coin and inlet it flat. I practiced inletting it in a piece of maple I have and its pretty easy to do it flat. The coin I want to use is a Standing Liberty half dollar  which has a 1.205 in diameter and a thickness 0.085 in I believe the radius is  9/16"

I would appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks,
Rob

This was a 1 ounce Eagle Globe and Anchor silver coin. I cut the EGA out at the border reducing the diameter +- 1/4". Then split it to thin it significantly. Trued and beveled the edges then simply nailed it on with silver nails. "Toothed" the nalls for grip, drilled a pilot hole and put a small amount of Tite Bond in the holes. I did sightly bend the EGA. Looks good in relief and I did this after the initial coat of finish. Nails came out with slightly cruder heads than I wanted but it looks OK. My son spent time as a Marine. Looks good in relief I think. Now I need to proof the barrels and add some more finish. Splitting it was the only PITA.

Dan

[borderdogs]

Dan,
Thanks for your post the look you achieved is what I am hoping for, you did a nice job on it thats for sure. I am close to doing an aqua fortis on the stock and was thinking of whether to cut the inlet and install the coin first or to wait until after. I have had a lots of ideas and some suggestions posted on how to keep it in place and silver nails or very small screws make the most sense I am thinking. The Standing Liberty half dollar is .087" thick I am not sure how I would split that, how did you split that coin of yours?
Rob

[borderdogs]

Also thanks rsherman for your post on inletting coins in the stock.
Rob

[bob in the woods]

I inlet a coin type inlay years ago by first soldering a lug on the back of the inlay, then glueing it in place, as well as pinning it. The pin hole was drilled from the underside of the cheek piece, and is not readily evident . It's extra insurance what with the extreme temp. changes we get here.

[Dphariss]

Dan,
Thanks for your post the look you achieved is what I am hoping for, you did a nice job on it thats for sure. I am close to doing an aqua fortis on the stock and was thinking of whether to cut the inlet and install the coin first or to wait until after. I have had a lots of ideas and some suggestions posted on how to keep it in place and silver nails or very small screws make the most sense I am thinking. The Standing Liberty half dollar is .087" thick I am not sure how I would split that, how did you split that coin of yours?
Rob

Jewelers  saw and a good blade from Rio Grande supply. They last much better. Would not buy anything else again.
https://www.riogrande.com/product/laser-gold-saw-blade-most-popular-assortment-pkg-144/110327
I would not saw all from one side. I rotated the coil and sawed in from 3-4 sides to control run out.
Dan

[borderdogs]

Thanks Dan and thanks for the suggestion Bob in the wood,
Rob