Checkering the E. Bull pistols

[B.Barker]

I haven't done any checkering for twentyfive years or more. I forgot how time consuming it is not to mention how hard to go around a grip. I am using a 16 lpi cutter on these and leaving the diamonds flat on top. Not sure how coarse the original is but it does have flat top diamonds. I practiced a bit before starting but still not doing as well as I had hoped.

[Mike Lyons]

That looks good Brian.

[Johnny Dollar]

B.B,

I think it looks fine.  People are always harping about HC/PC work and design and then trying to make things perfect.  Unless they were bespoke pieces or otherwise labor intensive (and expensive) period weapons, they had same slip ups you and I make.  Don’t worry if everything isn’t perfect.

Why didn’t you wait to checker it until you had applied the finish? 

[J. Talbert]

Looking good. I’ve only done a shotgun with a nice homemade checkering cradle (made by CW).
How did you hold the pistol for the checkering?

By the way; a little tip given to me years ago for laying out checkering is to use Dymo embossing labeling tape.  Works great with a sturdy edge but flexible enough to wrap around and has its own adhesive.

Jeff

[smart dog]

Hi Brian,
Your checkering looks good.  It usually is best to have at least one coat of finish on the gun fully cured before fine checkering. That hardens the surface and the diamonds reducing the risk they chip off during checkering.
Also the finish darkens the wood making the lines that you are cutting stand out and easy to see.
dave

[B.Barker]

I thought about the finish. But wasn't sure how it would work since the maple is white and I plan on staining with nitric.  I've done walnut but didn't use stain so there was no color change. Maybe the next one will get some finish first. I'll pull out a piece of maple and test it out.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Chequering a pistol grip is not easy.  I found out the hard way, I cannot do a wrap around pattern.  It is best to end it at a strip of unchequered wood along the back of the grip or to a centre line at least. 

[Daryl]

like this, Taylor?

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

That's an example of splitting the pattern on the inside curve, which on a pistol isn't an issue because of the trigger guard.  Where one runs into problems is across the back curve of the grip of a pistol.  Unless you start your base lines crossing across the back of the grip, you will run into problems creating the wrap-around pattern.  When I chequered Ron's pistol, I started across the back, and ended up fine on the sides of the grip.  My Hawken pistol has a strip of bare wood down the centre of the back of the grip so that the chequering isn't continuous.  It is much easier to cut two smaller panels that to try for the complete wrap-around.  For flat topped chequering, I use a 60 degree cutter, and leave the tops flat.

[culper]

Daryl,

That is some fine checkering and absolutely beautiful work! 

[Daryl]

Taylor's work.

[Curtis]

Looking good BBarker!  Not an easy task.


Curtis

[bama]

Brian, I think you are doing a fabulous job on the pistol. How precise to make the checkering I think is personal choice and in a lot of cases a hard choice to make. Most all of the original pistols I have looked at that had checkering the checkering was not that well laid out and the lines and spacing wandered a bit. A perfect checkering job on the pistol you are recreating would not be correct. A hard decision for the craftsman that has the skills to do a perfectly executed design, not to do it. Your pistol your call.

[B.Barker]

Jim, I agree. If I could figure out how to replicate the original checkering on Elisha's pistol I would do it. It has two different checkering angles or maybe start points is a better word. It's weird but I like it. These two pistols will not be perfect or near it but I hope they look close to what I want.