Too Chicken to Pour a Pewter Muzzle Cap

[canadianml1]

I tried the search option and got zip. Can someone explain how to do it please.

Thanks

[Chowmi]

I did one a few years ago.  I couldn't find my original post (if there was one..), but here is a link to a similar question from some time ago.  I posted a few pictures of how I did it.  It was my first time, and it worked out pretty well.
https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=40390.msg391768#msg391768

What kind of nose cap are you doing?  A solid one?  or a chevron one like on southern guns?  That makes a difference.

The short is, you need to make a dam to hold back the pewter from running down the stock and the ramrod channel.  I made my dam out of manila file folder card stock.  it worked pretty well.  Tape it up with blue painter's tape.
Make sure the seal is good, and make double sure that you plug the ramrod channel with something.  If you get pewter down the rr channel, you are in a bit of trouble. 

If it is a solid nose cap, relieve wood around the fore-end like you would for a brass cap.  Doesn't need to be super thick, but if it is too thin, the pewter will harden part way through your pour and you won't get good results.  I did that on a chevron nose cap. 
Also, if it is a solid nose cap, consider drilling a hole on either side, into the two angled bottom flats of the barrel channel.  Then countersink them slightly from the inside.  The pewter will flow into the holes and act as a rivet.  You need to have the barrel in good and tight when you pour, so the pewter doesn't run down the barrel channel.  Some guys pre-heat the barrel to help stop the pewter from solidifying early. 
If it's a full stock rifle, plug the muzzle of the barrel as well in case you miss!  Don't want pewter in the barrel.
Your pewter should be hot and melted, but not so hot that it burns a toothpick in less than a few seconds.  In other words, heat it up, and then dip a toothpick in it for a couple seconds.  If it comes out all burned up, you are too hot.

I've done two of them, and this is all from memory from a few years ago.  I think I've hit the high points. 

Cheers,
Norm

[JPK]

Norm does it the way I’ve done many. All I can add is I use wood shims along side the barrel. If it goes bad you can remove it and try again. I use 95% tin with 5% antimony.
IMG_0484 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

[canadianml1]

I would want to do a chevron style cap as the gun is an smr. It sound risky. The pic provided really looks beautiful!!!

Maybe I should do a trial run with a m/c 'd rod as a dummy barrel.

Thanks

[Daniel Coats]

I make sure the edges of my inlet are clean and sharp. I also preheat the barrel just enough to burn off moisture. If it's damp the pewter can bubble. Always wanted to try making a dam with plaster. Careful what the tape contacts as the area can get hot enough to melt the glue in the tape.

[Chowmi]

Here is a chevron type nose cap that I poured on my Kibler SMR:



the principles are the same, but a few key elements:

Make sure that the pewter has a clear path to each channel.  in other words, the pewter runs in from the muzzle end and must have an easy way to flow to each area.

Because the pewter has to run through narrow channels and around corners, it has to stay hot all the way through.  if you carve away too thin, it will solidify before it fully fills the void and then you have problems.  Ask me how I know...  The picture above is after the 3rd or 4th attempt, and I still had to use a soldering iron to carefully add a bit more pewter.  This was because I didn't relieve enough wood and the pewter solidified.   
you don't have to go super deep, but enough to let it flow.  My guess would be that I only went down .025 or .030, thinner than many brass inlays. 

Cheers,
Norm

[smallpatch]

Canada,
You need to get some books. Some things are very intimidating, but proper instructions will help.  Unless someone on this forum is willing to do a tutorial, you’ll never get this from a post.
I wish you good luck, but buy a book or two!

[canadianml1]

Chowmi: You bring up an important (to me) aspect of any new procedure that I am thinking of implementing and that is how to dig myself out of a hole. I always try to think of what various fixes look like should something go wrong. This gives me the confidence to risk damaging an expensive part.

I find it comforting that you were able to dig yourself out. You did a beautiful job on the chevron cap!

I think I'll do a trial run. I have a piece of pewter and some tin rod to experiment with. Maybe I just need to try the procedure first before I worry myself out of doing it on the smr.

Thanks all.

[oldwood]

           I used white card stock for pewter nose caps.  I inlet at least 1/16 deep , seal all tight, and lastly, to prevent wrinkles , dust liberally w/ powdered graphite. Works for me.

[scottmc]

Dont know if this will work or not but this the tutorial I used this past winter to do my first and only one.  I was nervous but it turned out to be no big deal.  Attached is also the picture of mine
http://www.hootalrifleshop.org/SM%20Nose%20Cap.htm

[DGB]

dear chicken,

I have done about seven or eight or so poured nose caps..easier to do than explain.
Just follow the advise and go for it.

Regards,
DGB

[eggwelder]

I just googled ‘poured pewter diy’
Lots of info out there, don`t need more that a ladle, an old file folder and some masking tape.
This rasp bladed Bowie has my first ever attempt at poured pewter. Turned out ok.

[canadianml1]

Thank you for all the useful information. This is a great forum where I can definitely benefit from the experience of some very helpful folks.

Thanks again!

[577SXS]

I like pouring pewter caps and prefer it to fitting a cast cap. I like the looks of pewter too. I use copper flashing to make my mold around the tip of forend. The key to pewter pouring is to warm the barrel and wood with a hair dryer or heat gun before pouring the pewter. Also don't over heat the pewter. I use a toaster oven to heat my pewter and get it just to the melting point. I made a ladle out of a piece of square tubing so that I would be able to set in oven. The square tubing also give a nice corner to pour from. Its also both left and right handed. Another thing to be careful about is to make sure not to use clay or anything with moisture in it for dams. Your pour will be full of bubbles if there is any moisture. I use wood stir sticks along the sides of the barrel so that pewter won't go down the sides. I use a wood dowel in muzzle and steel wood to fill any other cracks and holes where pewter isn't supposed to go.

[Rolf]

Here is a link that migth be of interest.

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=25850.0

Best regards
Rolf

[Tim Crosby]

 This should help, a little hard to see around the banners.

  https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=4669.msg43674#msg43674


   Tim C.

[retired fella]

I have poured two caps and proper preparation is a key.  Two of the points previously mentioned are graphite (a soft lead pencil will work coating all surfaces) and secondly drill holes in the wood to hold the pewter n place (acts like a rivet). 

I prefer using silver solder and use a Lyman mold ladle for the pour.  The thought process is scarier than the actual pour.  Good luck.

[smallpatch]

Canada,
It seems my previous post was a bit offensive.  That was NOT my intention. My advise is still the same.  It just could have been presented better.  I am one of those people that reads everything about my project before I start, and feel it’s important.
Again, I apologize if I stepped on your toes. No harm intended.

[P.W.Berkuta]

My first poured nose cap was a disaster - I had the pour flow out of my paper form into the ramrod hole, down the sides of the stock and made a BIG mess. It took me days to drill out the bottom of the ram rod hole and save the stock. What I learned very quickly was not to use modeling clay to dam up around the paper form. The clay will melt and your metal will flow out of your paper form making a mess. It's also best to make your form a little bit larger than what you want your final muzzle cap to be so you can shape it to final size. Here are a few pictures to give you a better idea of how I did this rifle's nose cap.

[Robin Henderson]

Here is another one from a recent Kibler SMR I assembled. I've only done a few and each one seems to be a little easier. I spite of my best effort I still seem to get a spot or two that just doesn't quite fill out. Instead of starting over, I've learn to make a small dam around the offending area with heat stop paste and pour a little pewter on just this part. Works very well.

[Dennis Glazener]

My first poured nose cap was a disaster - I had the pour flow out of my paper form into the ramrod hole, down the sides of the stock and made a BIG mess. It took me days to drill out the bottom of the ram rod hole and save the stock. What I learned very quickly was not to use modeling clay to dam up around the paper form. The clay will melt and your metal will flow out of your paper form making a mess. It's also best to make your form a little bit larger than what you want your final muzzle cap to be so you can shape it to final size. Here are a few pictures to give you a better idea of how I did this rifle's nose cap.




Yep I had my wife's "clay" melt, not the old fashioned clay like we used when I was a kid but the synthetic junk used in todays "clay" bought for kids to use. I had a mess on my hands and thought I would never get the barrel out. The pewter had gotten in the barrel tennons and locked the barrel tightly in the stock.
Dennis

[Pukka Bundook]

Canada,
I didn't see it mentioned above, but Herschel House in his gun -building videos pours a chevron style muzzle cap.
V entertaining DVD's they are too.

I  use babbit for bearings.

[Daryl]

Reminds me, my lathe needs new babbit bearings.

[canadianml1]

This is a great forum; I appreciate the advise received and effort made by ALL the folks that responded to my post. I asked for advice and I got it! I now think it is time for me to seriously consider this option for my SMR. ( not chicken anymore!) 

Thanks again.

[Hungry Horse]

 I pour my nose caps from pure tin, or better yet pick up some modern food safe pewter in the form of old engraved flagons or goblets from the local thrift store. I heat it just til it get good and liquid, and looks like chrome. Beyond this heat it will scorch your stock and have air bubble in it. Peel the wood back about an inch on a carpenters pencil, and rub the area that will be covered with the pewter (n this makes it flow better. Use the peeled pencil to stir your pewter just before you pore to collect any dross. I bore a hole or two depending on the size of the cap through the wood that will be covered by the pewter, and then kiss it with a larger bit on the barrel side to create a head. Just before you pour your pewter slide a red hot bolt down the barrel so the pewter doesn’t freeze when it touches the cold barrel.
 This sounds crazy hard but actually I just winged it on my first one, and it came out fine. Good luck.

  Hungry Horse