I Have My Gun, Tips Welcome

[John Morris]

Thanks Pete, need to blow some real smoke right? Been blowing enough of it already far too long! 

[Hungry Horse]

John, its a good thing they leveraged you into buying a little more powder. The first year I started shooting a muzzleloader I burned sixteen pounds of powder, and according to CVA wore the gun out. Good luck.

  Hungry Horse

[WadePatton]

John, there are 7000 grains by weight to a pound.  So if you're charging the barrel at 70 grains then roughly 100 shots to that pound.  Roughly that is because we tend to load by volume and not by weight.  Also that doesn't consider priming. 

You can use that figure to get an idea of how many shots you'll get from a pound. While you're at it you can convert your ball size to gauge and you'll know how many balls you can cast from a pound of lead.  Your 50 cal is about 38 balls to the pound or 38 bore/gauge.  (.491=38g)

[John Morris]

John, its a good thing they leveraged you into buying a little more powder. The first year I started shooting a muzzleloader I burned sixteen pounds of powder, and according to CVA wore the gun out. Good luck.
Hungry Horse

Hungry Horse, I thought this muzzle loading ammo was supposed to be easier on the pocket book than those little ol brass thingys some folks shoot. I'm still sure it is, just haven't done my math yet on it. 

[John Morris]

John, there are 7000 grains by weight to a pound.  So if you're charging the barrel at 70 grains then roughly 100 shots to that pound.  Roughly that is because we tend to load by volume and not by weight.  Also that doesn't consider priming. 

You can use that figure to get an idea of how many shots you'll get from a pound. While you're at it you can convert your ball size to gauge and you'll know how many balls you can cast from a pound of lead.  Your 50 cal is about 38 balls to the pound or 38 bore/gauge.  (.491=38g)

Wade, thanks for that information, I would like to cast my own for sure. Your information couldn't come at a better time, thanks!
Guess I'll be using 3F for everything at this point, just to keep it simple starting out, I think Pete came up with that suggestion, so at least I can purchase ever thing the same as far as powder goes.
Was searching yesterday for retailers who sale Goex, and actually found 2nd Amendment Sports in Palm Springs about 45 minutes from me, I am a happy camper now.

[OldMtnMan]

It's way cheaper when you figure out per shot spent. It's just more expensive to get started.

Soon, you won't be concerned with expense you'll be having so much fun shooting.

[OldMtnMan]

Until you get setup to cast your own. I like these for cast balls and the price is good.

http://www.octobercountry.com/cast-round-balls-45-to-8-bore/

[John Morris]

Pete, on both replies, thanks for that. I am learning this week that starting it costly, when it comes to the items I need I hope I am purchasing quality, so I don't have to do it again in the near future. I am not even sure what all I need, is there a list of all items needed for a day at the range?
For example, this tool here seems reasonable, is this something I need to maintain the pan at the range? http://www.octobercountry.com/antler-tip-pan-brush/
I could get really hung up in all the gadgetry I am seeing for this art/sport/craft. It's like woodworking, you start out buying "things" that look like you may need them, but never really do.

Or would a Flinters Ring of Tools do the job? Is the price reasonable? Quality?
http://www.octobercountry.com/flinters-ring-of-tools/
 

[Daryl]

Forged parts, looks good, John.
The napping hammer, vent pick(although a bit large in dia.) and screw driver are good. I never need a brush.
You can skinny up the vent pick with a file.

[OldMtnMan]

I was going to say I don't use a brush either. Some alcohol wipes works better. Vent pick for sure. Do that every load after loading powder and patch ball but befor putting in the pan powder. Run the pick all the way in making a channel in the powder. Then load the pan.

 You can buy the vent pick and screwdriver separately. I never use a hammer or brush.

[smylee grouch]

I have a steel vent pic but like a piece of copper wire better for when I want to pic my vent. Just thinking the hole wont enlarge as much or as fast.

[Panzerschwein]

Flintlocks by Eric Bye is a great book and should help answer most of your questions.

[John Morris]

Daryl, Pete, grouch, thanks for the tips again, appreciate it greatly!

Panzerschwein, got the book, been reading it like a bible! Great book, thanks sir.

[Dave Patterson]

Welcome, John!

I'm arriving late to the conversation here; scanned through most of it, but I might have missed this one tidbit.


A couple nice things about ordering from Graf's, as opposed to some other powder houses:  (1)  they'll sell in 5# lots; many other suppliers require a 20-25# purchase.  Fine, if you're buying for a club; not so useful, for most of us loners.

(2)  They'll "mix-and-match" orders, to make up that 5# minimum, within a like product line (for instance, you can order 2# of 2F; 2# of 3F, and a pound of 4F for priming, etc.).  My understanding is, as long as it's the same product, it counts toward the minimum.  If you want to try various makes or products, you might call ahead and see if they'll do that for you:  the minimum sales requirements for BP are mostly due to the Fed hazmat rules and fees.

I think you'll be happy with a GPR for your first muzzleloader; a pawnshop-find flintlock .50 GPR was my first, and I found it to be surprisingly accurate for a factory-built, price-point, import arm. I'll never sell it; in fact, after some TLC it'll be gifted to one of my three kids, or their spouse.

 I believe it was OMM who suggested replacing the lock with the L&R RPL lock; I did, and it really helped solve the flash-fizzle issue.  TOW and Muzzleloader Builders' Supply both offer them, online. 

[John Morris]

Welcome, John!

I'm arriving late to the conversation here; scanned through most of it, but I might have missed this one tidbit.


A couple nice things about ordering from Graf's, as opposed to some other powder houses:  (1)  they'll sell in 5# lots; many other suppliers require a 20-25# purchase.  Fine, if you're buying for a club; not so useful, for most of us loners.

(2)  They'll "mix-and-match" orders, to make up that 5# minimum, within a like product line (for instance, you can order 2# of 2F; 2# of 3F, and a pound of 4F for priming, etc.).  My understanding is, as long as it's the same product, it counts toward the minimum.  If you want to try various makes or products, you might call ahead and see if they'll do that for you:  the minimum sales requirements for BP are mostly due to the Fed hazmat rules and fees.

I think you'll be happy with a GPR for your first muzzleloader; a pawnshop-find flintlock .50 GPR was my first, and I found it to be surprisingly accurate for a factory-built, price-point, import arm. I'll never sell it; in fact, after some TLC it'll be gifted to one of my three kids, or their spouse.

 I believe it was OMM who suggested replacing the lock with the L&R RPL lock; I did, and it really helped solve the flash-fizzle issue.  TOW and Muzzleloader Builders' Supply both offer them, online.

Dave, thanks a million for the assurance and tips, appreciate it much.
I have another question, looking for the flintlock primers, those little dodads that you use to insert powder to the pan, I am adding to my shopping cart at TOW, is this what I use for the primer?
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Search.aspx?search=powder%20flask

[Daryl]

The brass powder primers are very much like handgrenades, if one was to go off while priming. A wood-stoppered horn primer would be so much better that I have stopped using the little handgrenade for priming my flinters.

[John Morris]

The brass powder primers are very much like handgrenades, if one was to go off while priming. A wood-stoppered horn primer would be so much better that I have stopped using the little handgrenade for priming my flinters.

Thanks Daryl, and that is why I am here, asking, appreciate it.

[OldMtnMan]

It will take you a while to get the hang of priming with your main horn. You'll pour in too much as first. Too much is not good, so remove some of it. It doesn't take much prime if everything else is right.

[WadePatton]

Welcome, John!
...
A couple nice things about ordering from Graf's, as opposed to some other powder houses:  (1)  they'll sell in 5# lots; many other suppliers require a 20-25# purchase.  Fine, if you're buying for a club; not so useful, for most of us loners.

(2)  They'll "mix-and-match" orders, ...

Powder Inc. also sells a wide array of powders, same 5# minimum (up to 50#-the price break at 10# is good and at 25# is great).  Quoted prices include all fees.  Mix and match is standard biz.   So don't think of them as " the other powder house" with different policy than Grafs. It looks quite similar to me.

[OldMtnMan]

Power Inc..........5lbs with sales tax...........$170

Graf's................5 lbs with sales tax...........$130

Both are full prices delivered to your door.



That's why I buy from Graf's.

[John Morris]

It will take you a while to get the hang of priming with your main horn. You'll pour in too much as first. Too much is not good, so remove some of it. It doesn't take much prime if everything else is right.

Thanks again all of you, appreciate the pricing comps for powder!
Pete, I have read that using the large horn for priming can be dangerous? Because of a larger explosion if it sparks on accident while priming? Is this fact or just another method that is worrisome to some but not to others?
Thanks sir

[OldMtnMan]

It will take you a while to get the hang of priming with your main horn. You'll pour in too much as first. Too much is not good, so remove some of it. It doesn't take much prime if everything else is right.

Thanks again all of you, appreciate the pricing comps for powder!
Pete, I have read that using the large horn for priming can be dangerous? Because of a larger explosion if it sparks on accident while priming? Is this fact or just another method that is worrisome to some but not to others?
Thanks sir

No, you read to not use it for the main charge down the bore. The majority will prime the pan with the main horn. Although so will use a smaller priming horn. If there was a danger the small horn could blow up too.

The danger is an ember still burning when you pour the powder down the bore. That would flash up the bore and ignite your powder horn. That couldn't happen priming the pan.

[flinchrocket]

Just as sort of an eye opener, watch a view videos of a flintlock going off. That ball of fire is from a very small amount of black powder. If your gun would happen to go off while priming your whole priming horn or whatever you are using would go just as fast. Things would get ugly real fast no matter what your using.

[John Morris]

Pete and Martin, thanks again for your tips, appreciate it much.
I am getting ready to purchase powder from Graf's.
I am purchasing 4 lbs, the minimum, Pete recommended 3F for shooting and priming. Do you all think I should purchase 4 cans of 3F or should I try to experiment a tad, say two cans of 3F as recommended here, maybe a can of 4F to see how it acts in the pan instead of the 3F, and perhaps a can of 2F? So total order 2lbs of 3F, 1lb of 2F, 1lb of 4F. 4lbs total.
Thanks guys for putting up with my questions.

[OldMtnMan]

Are you going to hunt or just targets? If you're going to hunt. What game?