Patch Box/ Stock Excavation Method

[canadianml1]

Having completed the installation of a toe plate I plan to do my first patch box installation but I found the wood (black walnut) very hard to remove. I have built three other guns with black walnut stocks and never ever had any problems. I sharpened the chisels I use as before but the wood is close grain and really very tough. My concern is cutting into the stock to make a half inch deep pocket without putting undue stress on a very slender stock. What is the best method to go about this ?

Comments appreciated.
 Thanks.

[Joe Stein]

If you examine original ALRs you will see that many of the patchbox cavities were drilled,  as evidenced by the marks left in the bottom of the cavity.

[Pukka Bundook]

Appropriate sized bit, held in a brace works well. 
Many originals will show a row of holes up the centre  from the bit.
Note though, that you normally will not see the outside cutter marks, as early bits had the outside edges turned back in a curl, not sharp-edged cutters like newer bits.

Best,
R.

[Mike Brooks]

Have a look at my tutorial.

[canadianml1]

Forstner bits........................got it. Never heard of such a thing before.

Thanks

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I can't remember how Mike did it in his tutorial, but checking it out would be very sound advice.

I have used Forsner bits which work really well, and spade drills with the tit cut short to about 3/16".  Either way, you need to support the stock when drilling.  If you're using a drill press, a couple of sand bags will allow you to rotate the stock while still getting firm support as you drill out the cavity.  If you use a brace and bit, support the buttstock with a support clamped or screwed to your bench.  You have to support the buttstock somehow...you will be using your razor sharp chisels and a mallet to remove the corners and webs between the holes too, and the buttstock requires support for this work.

[canadianml1]

Thanks Taylor..........never thought of using sand bags for support. This I can do.

[Nordnecker]

Before you drill these holes, make sure that the center spur of the bit makes contact before the cutting edge bites. If it doesn't, the side of the bit will catch and cause the workpiece to move or snatch the drill out of control. Try a practice piece first, just to get the feel of it.
Also, pay close attention to how the top edge of the cavity gets chamfered.

[Eric Krewson]

I Forstner works well for bulk removal, I use a cordless drill and go slow, everything cleans up nicely.

In the past when I posted something like this someone comes on and says they wouldn't use a Forstner bit on their build if someone put a gun to their head and I should become more proficient with my chisels.

Anyway, I am a wood hack and only build guns for my own stable, no one else.





That phillips head screw is a temp for the release spring testing and adjustment.

[smallpatch]

Forstner or spoon bits for bulk removal.  Chisels to clean up.  Can’t see any other practical way.  Chiseling the whole thing is just abuse!

[canadianml1]

Thanks for the tips, I really appreciate them all!!!

[oldtravler61]

  Erick I build for me also..well grand kids too..but I've used chizels mostly..with a scraper for the bottom.works  fine for me.But I'm not selling to customer's either..Power tools DON'T
 like me... Oldtravler