Sheet brass NE fowler buttplate

[rich pierce]

I’m starting a build of a New England fowler with some features from NE 11 in Grinslade’s Flintlock Fowlers book. The black and white photos are not superb but the buttplate looks to have a raised portion. After banging out the buttplate and shaping it from 0.080” sheet brass I executed the raised bit tonight. I think 0.080” is about ideal for sheet brass buttplates though I’ve gone as thin as 0.050” thick stock.

5” plus tall, 5” extension, 2 and 1/8” wide. Nothing close commercially because of the length of the comb extension.

[bob in the woods]

That is fabulous work. Beautiful design, and your execution is very very well done. I look forward to seeing the gun as you make further progress

[Mike Lyons]

It turned out very nice Rich.  How in the world did you create the raised portion?  Did you use a scraper?

[rich pierce]

It turned out very nice Rich.  How in the world did you create the raised portion?  Did you use a scraper?

Thanks, Mike.
I outlined it with a deep cut with a square graver. Followed with a flat graver. I used the flat graver in beast mode to remove some stuff outside the raised panel. Then files and rifflers.

[alex e.]

Love it!
I'll take three.

[rich pierce]

Love it!
I'll take three.

We’d have to get Mike Brooks to cast some. I have about 4 hours in this one. Of course it also takes me an hour to clean up a casting so calm it 3 hours over what a casting takes. Then it cost me $8 to make so saved an hour’s wage over buying a casting. So the net is 2 extra hours of work. I know, imaginary math.

Back on topic, Alex, would you add a tab out front for pinning or just put a big woodscrew in at the heel and trust it?

[Clark Badgett]

Has a bit of a French look.

[rich pierce]

Has a bit of a French look.

It seems that French hardware and parts were commonly used on early period New England fowlers.

[Joe Stein]

That looks outstanding, Rich. I think a tab on the comb extension would be a good idea.
-Joe Stein

[Dave B]

I love that butt plate. I am bugged by having a cast butt plate weighing 3 lbs as cast. The originals sure look to have been pounded out.

[Curtis]

Ya done well there Rich!


Curtis

[Ky-Flinter]

Really nice work, Rich.  Great looking piece.

-Ron

[BOB HILL]

Great job. Rich.
Bob

[smart dog]

Hi Rich,
Beautifully done!  It takes a bit of work to cut that relief and the quality of the brass is very important.  Some cast brass can be very frustrating.  Using sheet brass was a good choice.

dave

[alex e.]

Love it!
I'll take three.

We’d have to get Mike Brooks to cast some. I have about 4 hours in this one. Of course it also takes me an hour to clean up a casting so calm it 3 hours over what a casting takes. Then it cost me $8 to make so saved an hour’s wage over buying a casting. So the net is 2 extra hours of work. I know, imaginary math.

Back on topic, Alex, would you add a tab out front for pinning or just put a big woodscrew in at the heel and trust it?

I think a forward screw would ruin it.

[Mike Brooks]

I love that butt plate. I am bugged by having a cast butt plate weighing 3 lbs as cast. The originals sure look to have been pounded out.

I believe they were cast flat and pounded/bent to shape.

[rich pierce]

Oh yes, a forward screw would ruin it. Sometimes a heel screw suffices to keep the comb extension in place but with this length a tab for a cross pin seems the right thing.

[smart dog]

Hi Rich,
Here is a photo of the Hawk fowler.

There is a cross pin under the neck of the return.

Here is my version of it (not a copy) with the pin clearly visible.


dave

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

On those type of buttplates, I like a vertical lug with a hook that engages a nail set into the wood, wedging the forward extension down into the inlet.  A large screw in the heel forces the plate forward and down.

[smart dog]

Hi Taylor,
How do you go forward and down with butt plates that have flared tangs?  You slide forward and you open a gap behind.  Your method, which I've used as well, is perfect for English style butt plates that taper or step down continuously toward the front.

dave

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

You are correct Dave.  You cannot push this particular butt plate forward very far without opening up gaps behind.  The lug on the forward end of the buttplate return acts as a drawer to pull the extension down and as a stop to prevent it from going forward.  The heel screw simply anchors the plate against the stock.

The cross pin idea could do the same work.  Once the return is fully inlet, it could be clamped down hard into its inlet and then cross drilled for the pin, assuming the heel is also bottomed out against wood.  Then the lower screw could be set up to pull the plate down slightly, further tightening the plate's inlet.

[Jim Kibler]

Hi Taylor,
How do you go forward and down with butt plates that have flared tangs?  You slide forward and you open a gap behind.  Your method, which I've used as well, is perfect for English style butt plates that taper or step down continuously toward the front.

dave

Wouldn't be too hard to bend the forward bit upwards so you can succesfully move the buttplate forward while inletting.  Bend it down and inlet after the rest fits.

Jim

[smart dog]

Hi Jim,
Yes, and that would be safer and easier because Rich used sheet brass.  That is riskier with a wax or injection casting.

dave