Author Topic: Powder Horn Valve Kits - where for art thou (Read 2985 times)

G. Elsenbeck · « **on:** July 16, 2020, 01:17:33 AM »

Do these parts/kits exist anymore? Know anyone making them? Either in brass or steel?
Gary

Clark Badgett · « **Reply #1 on:** July 16, 2020, 01:50:30 AM »

I think Rich Peirce has been giving consideration about trying to make some, but don't know if he's still thinking about it or not. I really want a couple as well.

Tim Crosby · « **Reply #2 on:** July 16, 2020, 02:06:51 PM »

TOW had everything but the cone. I've been playing with making a cone but it is not high on the list. There was a post on these awhile back, may have been some ideas in it, I'll see if I can find it.

Tim

smokinbuck · « **Reply #3 on:** July 16, 2020, 02:19:39 PM »

Ken Netting makes them up as complete primers but not as kit parts.

Tim Crosby · « **Reply #4 on:** July 16, 2020, 02:31:02 PM »

That was painful...I didn't read through it but there may be a lead in it someplace.

Tim

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=50705.msg502822#msg502822

G. Elsenbeck · « **Reply #5 on:** July 16, 2020, 06:07:37 PM »

Thanks for the research Tim. I just received a reply from TOW indicating the man who used to cast the kits has ceased operations, but forgot to let me know WHO made them in the hopes he/they trained someone else. Or, ask about the molds.
Gary

okieboy · « **Reply #6 on:** July 16, 2020, 06:43:34 PM »

It seems that a major part of all castings for our pursuit were produced by Allan's Foundry and when he retired he did not want to part with his molds. I would not be surprised if this product was one of his.

davec2 · « **Reply #7 on:** July 18, 2020, 08:27:36 AM »

These parts don't look to tough to make without casting them. The main part of the spout can be lathe turned out of base stock and the pivot clevis for the stopper / lever can be made from plate and soldered on. The lever is very easy to make in one or two pieces as well.

P.W.Berkuta · « **Reply #8 on:** July 18, 2020, 11:03:53 PM »

The cone can also be made out of sheet brass - the joint brazed together and then the tab soldered on. I've made brass funnels like this.

Hungry Horse · « **Reply #9 on:** July 18, 2020, 11:26:44 PM »

Finally, thank you guys that still think of scratch building first. If you can roll a ramrod pipe you can roll a cone like this, complete with the tab. With a piece of clock spring, and a good big square nail, your in business. Oh, and it won’t look like you bought it some where, which is good.

Hungry Horse

ScottH · « **Reply #10 on:** July 19, 2020, 05:19:48 AM »

What do you think the approximate dimensions of the cone should be??

Hungry Horse · « **Reply #11 on:** July 19, 2020, 05:59:43 PM »

It you are going to make it all from scratch, it can be whatever dimensions works. I would first reduce the end of the horn you intend to put the valve on just enough so the sleeve is flush with the surface of the horn. I would then use the end of the horn as the form for the valve body. A piece of annealed brass sheet about the thickness of a ramrod pipe wrapped around the end of the horn, and pinch tight with a small bench vise, or even an old hand vise should work fine. Just like a ramrod pipe, allow enough extra for a mounting tab for your valve lever, and solder it up. I would make a brass nozzle that could be soldered into the small end for strength. Also it should slide into the end of the horn snuggly to support the end of the valve that has no screws or pins. The lever, and spring are pretty self explanatory. Good Luck.

Hungry Horse

P.W.Berkuta · « **Reply #12 on:** July 19, 2020, 06:02:01 PM »

Try going here - https://planetcalc.com/3831/ - you can set your own dimensions and it will figure the cone for you

Hungry Horse · « **Reply #13 on:** July 19, 2020, 06:32:29 PM »

I’d rather treat myself to a double root canal. Thanks anyway.

Hungry Horse

G. Elsenbeck · « **Reply #14 on:** July 19, 2020, 07:19:27 PM »

Rough dimensions of one cast steel kit in my possession is as follows:Length = 2 1/2 inchesOD of base = 1 1/16ID of base = whatever the thickness of the brass sheet will determine this
Spout = ID should be about 1/4"Spout = OD, again will be determined by thickness of brass sheet.
What thickness of brass sheet be used?

Craig Wilcox · « **Reply #15 on:** July 20, 2020, 12:09:10 AM »

I had been thinking of using some brass sheet to make the cone, but then thought of copper pipe.

With plenty of annealing, some 1/2" copper pipe could be coned enough to fit over the end of the horn. The other items could then be made to fit, Just be sure to use good solder for the fulcrum of the stopper mechanism. Probably, a steel taper mandrel could be useful in the forming; I used to use one to align bolt holes.

Although neither HC or PC, a small piece of rubber glued to the stopper flap would protect from moisture or inadvertent spillage.

Hungry Horse · « **Reply #16 on:** July 20, 2020, 05:27:57 AM »

In my opinion copper pipe is too heavy and would require annealing, then straightening, then annealing again. Then you have to make a mandrill to form it. Thinner material would eliminate a lot of these steps.

Hungry Horse

cable · « **Reply #17 on:** July 20, 2020, 08:27:54 PM »

I had a set of these parts ...got them years ago, never used them. will try to look for them this week...I will never get around to using them.

will let you know

G. Elsenbeck · « **Reply #18 on:** July 20, 2020, 08:56:48 PM »

Cable, pm sent.

Justin Urbantas · « **Reply #19 on:** July 25, 2020, 07:38:46 AM »

Quote from: Craig Wilcox on July 20, 2020, 12:09:10 AM

I had been thinking of using some brass sheet to make the cone, but then thought of copper pipe.

With plenty of annealing, some 1/2" copper pipe could be coned enough to fit over the end of the horn. The other items could then be made to fit, Just be sure to use good solder for the fulcrum of the stopper mechanism. Probably, a steel taper mandrel could be useful in the forming; I used to use one to align bolt holes.

Although neither HC or PC, a small piece of rubber glued to the stopper flap would protect from moisture or inadvertent spillage.

I have a friend with a horn like this, and she used a small piece of well greased leather glued on the stopper flap. Seals up tight and is HC.

News:

Author Topic: Powder Horn Valve Kits - where for art thou (Read 2985 times)