Band saw for hogging out blanks

[GANGGREEN]

Someone else's post (I think Rich Pierce) about making the cut under the fore-stock with a hand saw prompted me to post.  I hogged out a really nice curly maple blank last night on my bandsaw and it really doesn't seem to like doing that.  I have what I think is a relatively new, relatively OK quality 3/4" blade on the saw and it's a decent quality saw (Shop Fox), but it's only 1/2 HP and it really bogged down on the 3" hard maple blank.  I went out this morning and hogged out another curly maple blank (10/4") and a couple of cherry blanks (also 10/4") and it did a bit better, but still not very well. 

Not being terribly experienced with such things, I'm left to wonder if I just don't have the saw set up right (I tried to make all of the appropriate adjustments before working on that blank because it's going to be a Jim Chamber's Isaac Haines kit and I wanted it to be perfect).   Is a 1/2 HP saw adequate for this sort of work, or should I start keeping my eyes open (I also need a new planer for the shop, but that's another issue)?

[Hungry Horse]

I cut some crazy dense stocks with my little Delta home raft 10” bandsaw with its 1/4 HP motor. But, I used a 1/4” X10 Teeth per inch blade. When I tried using a wider skiptooth blade it just wouldn’t do it. Be sure to wear a mask when using such a fine toothed blade, or the dust will kill you. This is especially true for walnut, and especially Myrtle.

  Hungry Horse

[GANGGREEN]

Interesting, I actually thought I was using the right sort of blade.  Actually mine is a resaw blade, but I thought it would be OK for this initial hogging out phase.  I'll have to put a different blade on there and give it a shot.  Thanks.

[44-henry]

A 1/2 horse motor used to be the standard for a 14" saw, I have a heavy old Delta 14" with the factory motor of this size. It really pays to get a premium blade for your saw. I use the wood slicer from highland woodworking. A 1/2" wide blade in 3 tpi will make a world of difference.

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer12resawbandsawblades705to137.aspx

[GANGGREEN]

Thanks.  I may have this actual blade, but it's not on the saw at this time.  I had done some research on resaw blades and this one was very highly rated and I THINK I got one.  I'll have to check the cabinet under the saw tomorrow and if I did purchase it, I'll slap it on their immediately and give it a try.

A 1/2 horse motor used to be the standard for a 14" saw, I have a heavy old Delta 14" with the factory motor of this size. It really pays to get a premium blade for your saw. I use the wood slicer from highland woodworking. A 1/2" wide blade in 3 tpi skip tooth will make a world of difference.

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer12resawbandsawblades705to137.aspx

[smallpatch]

A good blade, properly set up,  let it cut.
Either a wood slicer, or Timberwolf blades in a ⅜” or ˝” will do just fine

[Ky-Flinter]

3 tpi will make a world of difference.

For sure!

-Ron

[GANGGREEN]

OK gents, thanks for the help.  I'll likely swap the blade out today, give it another shot and report back.  Odd how using the correct tool for the job sometimes works.   

[Mike Brooks]

I'm not sure what "hogging out" means but when cutting blanks out of planks I use a chainsaw then clean them up with a bandsaw with a blade that is 1/2" X 4 tpi

[P.W.Berkuta]

Instead of guessing if you have the correct blade width for your 1/2 HP band saw read your manual. Most home band saws will use up to 1/2" wide blades unless the guides have been changed to accommodate a wider blade. My band saw is a 16" - 3/4 HP model and it will safely take up to a 1/2" wide blade even though I can stuff a 3/4" blade in there. A good quality 4 or 6 skip tooth hook 1/2" wide blade should do on maple up to 3" thick if you don't force the wood into the blade.  The same tooth style blade in 3/8" wide might be better

[Chowmi]

Serendipity!

I was just setting up my new (used) Rockwell 14 bandsaw and put a Bosch blade on it.  didn't cut as well as I wanted, and was about to ask what everyone else uses!

thanks for asking the question Gangreen, and thanks for all the answers.

Norm

[GANGGREEN]

I put a new 1/2" 4TPI blade on and it made quick work of some 10/4" curly cherry this evening.  Thanks for the help everyone.  I suppose the blade should have been the first thing that I thought of or checked, but I'm not necessarily the sharpest tool in the shed.

[alacran]

I have been using Olsen blades for about 30 year. Don't think I've ever used a Bosch blade. But I have used other brands. The brand isn't all that important. What is important is the amount of teeth per inch and the set for the job that you are doing.

[WKevinD]

As well as having the correct  blade make sure you have enough tension on it to keep it cutting straight on the line.
Kevin

[GANGGREEN]

Yep, thanks.  When I bought the bandsaw, I did also purchase a book about properly tuning one.  I actually forget and have to go back and refer to it at times, but I think I've got it set up quite well now.  I shaped two curly maple stocks today and they were square and I was able to easily follow my laid out lines (magic marker).   I'm very pleased with how it's cutting right now, in large part thanks to some of you.

[galamb]

I have a 15" bandsaw, 1 horse motor.

For cutting blanks I run a 3/4" 4 hook blade - found the wide blade doesn't wander as much no matter how hard the wood is even if your tension is a bit off, but with the wider blade you do run a greater risk of binding so the process is still somewhat slow.

As my Dad used to say - let the saw do the cutting - don't try and force it

[GANGGREEN]

Yes, I found that my 3/4" blade was binding up too much and I've enjoyed cutting with the 1/2" blade much more.  It's easier to "let the blade do the work" on smaller pieces, but I've tried to follow that axiom as well.  Thanks to everyone for the advice, insight and thoughts.