Lengthen a butt plate

[conquerordie]

I need to lengthen a butt plate for this RCA 118 project I'm going to attempt.  I'll be using one of Mike Brooks castings, but will have to lengthen it about 3/8" to have the proper shape and size.  SO how should I do this.  Honestly, I've soldered some, never brazed, and only have propane or mapp gas torch for the heat source.  So being the toe on a butt plate, would you use a silver solder, soft solder, or braze it? It will be aged some, so Ill be able to hide any seam that might show, plus its the toe of the butt plate, its not the location that your eyes are drawn to when you look at a rifle! Dont know how important the strength of the placement is as its going to be attached and supported by the stock, so not sure if a high strength silver solder type of material is really warranted.  Any thoughts, and thank you for your help,
Greg

[davec2]

I would silver braze on an extension piece and scarf the joint some.  The solders listed below will minimize any color difference.  If it doesn't matter that much, any "hard" (i.e. high melt temp high silver content) silver solder will do.

https://www.riogrande.com/product/brass-wire-solder-20-ga/132201

https://www.riogrande.com/product/yellow-silver-chip-solder-hard/101204

[rich pierce]

I can lengthen a cast buttplate in 5 minutes with a cross peen hammer and 2 annealings.

[Clint]

You can dove tail a piece onto the toe, solder the joint and hammer it smooth. I have dovetailed side opening patch box legs onto the top and after it's all cleaned up it looks very cool.

[Mike Lyons]

I’m working with Mike’s castings right now.  His brass is easy to deal with.  I’d use Rich’s  advice. 

[Bill Raby]

Go with the cross peen hammer. Stretching it out a bit is pretty easy.

[conquerordie]

Thank you for the info.  I will attempt to peen it and re shape the toe.  I have some brass and try to swage one too, as the original was probably sheet brass.  I actually swaged a sheet metal butt plate once, it did not really turn out as I hoped (being my first one), but I do remember the process, and I was able to successfully create the dome or nose at the back of the plate by using a dished out piece of wood.
Greg

[David R. Pennington]

I think Rich’s idea would be simplest, and easiest. You only need 3/8”. Heat to dull red and quench. Draw it out, quench again soon as you feel it getting hard or it may crack.

[rich pierce]

Here is a brief tutorial.

This is a short, wide buttplate. It’s also not very thick. Hmmmm.


After annealing I pound it flat on the anvil.



Then I use a wide nosed cross-peen hammer to stretch it, working on the inside surface with the hammer.








I then flatten the little ridges with the flat face of the hammer. Now it looks mangled beyond repair. No worries.



Now I use concave wooden forms and a wide, rounded ballpeen hammer to restore the doming of the buttplate.





Now it is time to restore the shape. I use a rough hickory form with a cob-job wire “clamp” to restore the overall form of the buttplate. I use a soft copper hammer.







I use the wider cross peen hammer. It’s about 2 and a half pounds.

[conquerordie]

Rich,

Very cool and a huge help.  Will start making my wooden forms next time Im off from work. 
Greg

[Mike Brooks]

It looks to me like the one that is on there is made out of sheet brass.

[rich pierce]

It looks to me like the one that is on there is made out of sheet brass.

I agree