Band saw

[A.Merrill]

   I just got a used Delta band saw at a good price. I need a saw blade that will cut some rock hard bird's eye maple wood. What brand of blade and how many TPI do you guy's suggest?  This is my first band saw so I appreciate any tips.   Al

[Kevin Houlihan]

I use a “Wood Slicer” from Highland Woodworking - 1/2” 3 or 4 TPI. Works great in thick maple.

[Clint]

Some where on the saw, there should be a blade length. If you can't determine the length easily, measure with a string and go to lowes and get the closest one that will fit. You will probably be disapointed with the blade but it will get you started. Once you know what length you actually need go online and get a couple of blades from Lenox or Starret. Half inch wide will cut a rifle stock nicely but you will probably want a 3/8" skip tooth for cutting stuff. Also spend sometime fussing with the tension and the blade guides and make sure the table is square before cutting any thing that matters.

[Clowdis]

4TPI Timber Wolf always worked well for me.

[P.W.Berkuta]

I buy my blades from <sawblade.com> for both my metal band saw and wood band saw. I buy the bi-metal blade for the metal saw and their carbon steel blade for the wood saw. The wood band saw blade is 3/8" 6 tooth hook and the other wood blade is 1/2" 4 tooth hook. Good prices and fast shipping  The blades last for many cuts.

As for blade length talk to the salesperson and tell them what brand saw you have and the wheel diameter and they will set you up with the correct blade length. If you don't and you tell them the wrong size blade you will not be able to return it because it is YOUR mistake. If the salesperson makes the mistake then you will be able to return the blade and get the correct size. I have never had an issue with getting the wrong blade length from these people.

[smallpatch]

Woodcraft Timberwolf ⅜” 3 TPI skip tooth.
Cuts sugar maple, fast and clean, flexible enough to cut the wrist curves.
I was going to throw my 14”Rigid bandsaw away till I discovered these.

[Nazgul]

I have found Timber Wolf blades to be excellent. Last much longer than some brands.

Don

[44-henry]

I will second the wood slicer, just finished putting new ones on two of our University bandsaws and promptly re-sawed a 5" wide piece of hard maple. Those blades are about as good as they get.

[A.Merrill]

   Thank's guy's for the info.   Al

[J Henry]

   What kind of sawing are you going to be doing  ?? long cuts,slabbing use a wide blade,, fancy cutting use a narrow blade.Need more information.Is the wood green or seasoned,,

[mark esterly]

some more help

[A.Merrill]

   Mark Esterly, thank you! That's a great video everybody needs to watch. There's more to setting up a bandsaw than you would think.   Al

[flehto]

When in my tool and diemaking apprenticeship, some of the work entailed sawing out  clearances for the trim slugs in  the die sets which  usually varied from 2" -4" thick...the work was done on big DoAll band saws. The blade was measured according to the marks on the floor , cut off and slipped into a drilled hole  for each slug clearance hole and the ends of the  blade were welded together and put on the wheels. 

Because of the weight, the die sets were on ball bearing plates and the blade tension was important so the vertical cuts weren't convex and if some cuts were convex or not on the line, saw filing was necessary....moving the die set across  the face of the blade.

So when I rec'd my 14" Grizzly band saw, I was disappointed in the blade guides which were plastic....couldn't control the blade so it could  cut on the lines and   bought ball bearing blade guides and these saved a lot of time by sawing on the lines. Why leave extra wood outside the line that has to be removed by slower tools?.....Fred

[P.W.Berkuta]

I have an older Grizzly 16" saw and it has/had zinc/pot metal parts to hold the guide blocks and also for the tension/tracking bracket. I think all the import saws under $800 have this zinc/pot metal feature. I just replaced these items on my saw with billet aluminum ones that I made after the original ones broke recently. I think the original zinc/pot metal ones lasted about 20 years. I did not have a blade tracking/wondering issue with the original parts until they broke. The replacement roller bearing guides for my saw was $198.xx and that was more than what I wanted to spend so I made my own out of 6061 billet aluminum. I also put new urethane tires on the saw now the saw is like new with all the new parts  .

[WadePatton]

I use a “Wood Slicer” from Highland Woodworking - 1/2” 3 or 4 TPI. Works great in thick maple.

I'm quite pleased with the Wood Slicer I just put on a old bargain saw.  It came with 6 blades and none of them were sharp or appropriate for thick hardwood. 

The Wood Slicer has made the saw functional for me. There might be some better somewhere, but this one is right on for the money for me.

The Alex Snodgrass video above is excellent, and I always recommend it.

[J Henry]

    Thing with a Band saw,when ever you change the blade you must go back and readjust the saw to the blade.+

[Joe Stein]

" I think all the import saws under $800 have this zinc/pot metal feature. "
I have my Grandfather's Delta bandsaw from the 1930s and it came with cast aluminum guide holders, with ball bearing guides.

[P.W.Berkuta]

When the home/ hobby machinery was made in the good old USA they were QUALITY built and no short cuts were made with inferior parts . You got a well built saw there that will last far beyond you .  I had a chance to buy a Walker Turner 18" band saw years ago for $200. I had to turn it down because I could not move it for under $500 and I did not have the room for it at the time .

[A.Merrill]

   I just got a blade for mine from Timber Wolf bandsaw blades.  It's a 1/4 with 4tpi and it just cut rock hard birdseye maple like it was cutting butter and made good tight turns. I'm happy with this blade so far.   Al