Author Topic: Steel Wool  (Read 1286 times)

Offline flehto

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Steel Wool
« on: September 24, 2020, 04:23:23 PM »
To begin, I don/t use AF or ferric nitrate for staining.....as many as 3 Dangler stains are used . After the stain {s} are completely dry, 0000 steel wool removes any  unabsorbed surface stain which can yield a "cloudy" layer.

After vacuuming the stock, 2 wipe on/wipe off coats of LMF sealer w/ a 10 min soak in time are applied w/ a complete dry between coats. After the 2nd coat of LMF sealer is dry, 0000 steel wool removes any dried, unabsorbed sealer on the surface.  The steel wool not only removes any unabsorbed stain/ sealer, but really smooths the stock.

After another vacuuming, 2 sparse  finger rubbed in coats of Wahkon Bay Trucoat are applied w/ a complete dry between coats. The final finish looks somewhat shiny but shortly becomes dull.....a light  rub w/ a fluffy towel brings out some sheen. The stock looks like there isn't any finish on it. Total time spent....36 hrs. ....Fred





« Last Edit: September 24, 2020, 04:30:51 PM by flehto »

Offline FALout

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Re: Steel Wool
« Reply #1 on: September 24, 2020, 05:01:22 PM »
The finish on your rifles always looks great.  I’ve used steel wool on my projects, just only after the first coat of finish, I just make sure there are no stragglers hanging anywhere before the next coat.
Bob
Bob

Offline P.W.Berkuta

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Re: Steel Wool
« Reply #2 on: September 24, 2020, 10:13:23 PM »
I've never had an issue with 4/0 steel wool - before staining with AF or after. I also use the red and gray Scotchbrite by it's self or with the steel wool to no ill effect. Lucky I guess ;D ;)
"The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person who is doing it." - Chinese proverb

Offline Not English

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Re: Steel Wool
« Reply #3 on: September 25, 2020, 01:58:06 AM »
The only time I don't use 0000 steel wool is on unsealed walnut due to the really open grain.

Offline Hungry Horse

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Re: Steel Wool
« Reply #4 on: September 25, 2020, 05:47:34 PM »
 I think that curly maple that is stained with spirit stains will not develop that wonderful three dimensional quality that is seen on some modern builds, and many high end antiques. I boobytrapped myself by trying a couple of tannic acid washes, followed by a couple of coats of vinegaroon, was on a piece of curly maple scrap from a previous build that I had used spirit stain on, and was quite pleased with. I followed Jim Kibler’s instructions from his video, and after the two coats of tannic acid, and two coats of vinegaroon, and a good rub back with Scotchbrite ( I don’t use steel wool in my shop). I wiped on a little true oil just to see what I had. I was stunned, and to be honest a little sick at my stomach. My rifle looks good, but it was immediately apparent that I had only accentuated the surface curl with the Dangler stains I used. From here on I will only use spirit stains on maple to tint projects that have already gone through the acid staining process.

  Hungry Horse