Author Topic: Siler locks  (Read 2371 times)

Offline sghart3578

  • Starting Member
  • *
  • Posts: 38
Siler locks
« on: October 07, 2020, 11:01:45 PM »
What are the differences between a Chambers large Siler and a deluxe Siler? Are they interchangeable? How would I measure the difference?

Thanks very much.

Offline Seth Isaacson

  • Library_mod
  • Hero Member
  • *
  • Posts: 1104
  • Send me your rifles for the ALR Library!
    • Black Powder Historian
Re: Siler locks
« Reply #1 on: October 07, 2020, 11:37:42 PM »
From Track of the Wolf:
Quote
Built on a true Siler lock plate, pan and frizzen, it will fit any mortise pre-inlet for the large Siler lock. Other brands require additional fitting.

cock, top jaw and jaw screw, which sweep the frizzen from a higher point with more velocity, for better sparking.

The frizzen is hardened through, for long life. It rides over a cam-action frizzen spring, that is as pretty as it is clever. The thin upper leaf and redesigned cam point allow the frizzen to snap open smartly. No roller is used on this frizzen! A roller is not correct for this period, and recent high speed photo tests indicate that the so-called “frictionless” roller can increase the mainspring’s work load, slow the lock time, and reduce sparking. This fast acting frizzen spring uses an elegant hidden mounting screw, and has fewer parts to fail in the field.

The lock plate is polished bright inside. Fitted with Chambers’ best large Siler internal parts, each part has been tuned for best action. The mainspring has “pre-load” for snappy action. The new tumbler has tiny offset bearings, to reduce friction. The mainspring rides on the tumbler’s redesigned cam-action ramp, giving a smooth release at full cock, with increasing leverage for maximum acceleration.

Fine tuned to provide snappy action and good sparking, the sear is adjusted to give light release, despite the heavy mainspring load. Grey matte finished outside, the plate, cock, top jaw, pan and back surfaces of the frizzen are ready for cold browning or polishing. If you are building a right hand flint longrifle, and searching for the best large Siler flint lock, regardless of price, we offer this candidate.

I am the Lead Historian/Firearms Specialist at Rock Island Auction Co., but I am here out of my own personal interests in muzzle loading and history.
*All opinions expressed are mine alone and are NOT meant to represent those of any other entity unless otherwise expressly stated.*

Offline stuart cee dub

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 461
Re: Siler locks
« Reply #2 on: October 09, 2020, 12:33:33 PM »
 The deluxe Silers are product improved over the old Silers .
 
It appears anyway that the Siler kits from Track are basically the older Silers with the older shorter throw cocks . The old locks needed  assembly by someone who knew the tricks of tuning and getting the balance between the mainspring and the frizzed spring right .Getting the frizzen to trip over also needed some monkeying with the toe of the frizzen. Some builders also changed the pitch of the cock so the flints wouldn't get smashed. I had one assembled that smashed flints in about ten strikes.Absolutely frustrating
 
A tuned older Siler was and is a good lock if assembled by someone WHO knew what they were doing , it had a less travel needed to get the cock to the frizzen, but requires a shorter length flint .
 
All in all if I were buying a lock I would use the deluxe if I had to choose between the two unless you luck into finding an older siler which was actually assembled correctly at a bargain price . (I inherited an one that had been used as a freestanding demo lock , never installed on a gun that  I used on a build recently and this one goes off quick and doesn't smash the flints. Had in not worked I would have replaced it with a Deluxe WHICH I checked on mine  and would have dropped in with a little beveling on the lock plate , that was plan ''B''.)

All that being said there are locks I like better now as time and experience has produced a plethora of decent locks in the last 15 years .My current favorite is Chambers early Ketland , it has a pleasing shape ,the tail does a much better job of following the wrist so it be blends in better , and it's big and sparky .And it works for most colonial builds unless you really want that germanic influence .

Since I'm more interested in a good shooter to take to the local matches I'll look at the lock first when considering a build then the barrel and it's handing weight  then ergonomics then find something that matches those parameters historically so I don't look like a doofus carrying around some bad mix of parts . I would rather have the best barrel and lock that I could afford in a simple gun .

Of late I've been shooting a barn gun inspired by the late Don Getz's work ...wood patch box no buttplate no entry thimble or muzzle cap on a Beck profiled stock .  Mike Compton down in Iowa actually assembled it for me as I was moving at the time. He did a fabulous job selectively darkening the stock, antiquing it .Like Mike Brooks said recently buttplates are overrated . 

 Sorry I wondered off topic too much time on my hands this morning .
« Last Edit: October 09, 2020, 12:36:58 PM by stuart cee dub »

Offline EC121

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1610
Re: Siler locks
« Reply #3 on: October 09, 2020, 02:44:03 PM »
As I said in your post on the other forum, the standard Siler cock is 35mm from the tumbler screw center to the bottom clamp jaw.  The Deluxe is taller at 40mm for the same measurement.  That is close to 1/4" difference.  Also the cocks and frizzen springs are visibly different.   The plates are the same.  There are pictures and descriptions on Chambers' website.  Also Track of the Wolf.
« Last Edit: October 09, 2020, 02:50:33 PM by EC121 »
Brice Stultz

andsam1976

  • Guest
Re: Siler locks
« Reply #4 on: January 09, 2021, 01:53:42 AM »
Very talented , made great guns