Ramrod & Attachment Thread size

[RANGER94]

My apologies if this has been discussed previously.  How did this sport evolve into 2 thread sizes:  8/32 & 10/32.  It can be a minor irritant if you have different rifles with different thread sizes...

Thanks!!

[rich pierce]

I think the building community has used 8-32 and Thompson Center and some other factory guns did their own thing and went 10-32. Could be wrong.

[Hefner]

I purchased an adapter to allow me to switch between the two thread sizes.  Check with TOW and other vendors for availability.  Use only STEEL threaded jags, etc.!!

Steve H.

[Daryl]

If the rod is "tipped" on both ends, I like to thread the large end at 10-32 and the small end at 8-32.

[EC121]

Somewhere along the line someone thought the threads might be pulled out of an 8-32 thread.  Or maybe it was somehow cheaper to  use 10-32 threads.   It would take a real man to pull steel 8-32 threads out, but that is my take on it.  Even in brass I doubt they could be pulled out by a person.  The ramrod-wood joint will fail first.

[P.W.Berkuta]

If you take note of cleaning rods for cartridge guns the are mostly if not all threaded for #8-32 attachments (except for shotguns). They do not need to to do the same duty of a muzzle loading range/cleaning rod which are typically of larger bore diameter. The muzzle loading range/cleaning rod needs to be robust enough to be able to pull a dry ball situation when called upon. The other factor is that the manufactures wanted to differentiate between cartridge and muzzle loader accessories so that they can charge you more for their products .

[RANGER94]

If you take note of cleaning rods for cartridge guns the are mostly if not all threaded for #8-32 attachments (except for shotguns). They do not need to to do the same duty of a muzzle loading range/cleaning rod which are typically of larger bore diameter. The muzzle loading range/cleaning rod needs to be robust enough to be able to pull a dry ball situation when called upon. The other factor is that the manufactures wanted to differentiate between cartridge and muzzle loader accessories so that they can charge you more for their products .

This sadly makes the most sense!!!

[Daryl]

If you take note of cleaning rods for cartridge guns the are mostly if not all threaded for #8-32 attachments (except for shotguns). They do not need to to do the same duty of a muzzle loading range/cleaning rod which are typically of larger bore diameter. The muzzle loading range/cleaning rod needs to be robust enough to be able to pull a dry ball situation when called upon. The other factor is that the manufactures wanted to differentiate between cartridge and muzzle loader accessories so that they can charge you more for their products .

On the other hand, we've (Taylor and I) have been pulling loaded balls with 8x32threaded screws since the early 70's.  They've mostly been in brass as well, on pinned
commercial ram-rod ends. I could possible see a loose 8x32 or 10x32 thread being "pulled" if a threaded flash hole in a ctg. case was used for the rod tip, but unlikely to
be THAT loose. As well, the thread size is large enough to incorporate more brass and that case head brass is not dead-soft brass, but hardened guilding metal, similar to
bullet jacket material.

[EC121]

I try to use 8-32.  If a lot of threads were needed for strength, why do nuts for almost any thread size only have 3-4 threads.  Most rod ends(except the cartridge case type) and attachments have more than that.

[Daryl]

With well cut, snug threads, the threaded section length equaling the thread's diameter produces maximum strength for that thread size, does it not?

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

The danger with the smaller (#8) size, is if the jag isn't screwed in far enough for the shaft to contact the rod tip well, the #8 shank is fragile and can be more easily bent or even broken off than a #10, which is noticeably more robust.  If I were starting out today, I'd buy all 10 x 32 jags, brushes, etc.  I make my own rod tips, so 10's are just as easily made as 8's.

[Nazgul]

I have standardized all mine to 10-32. Have tendency to be heavy handed sometimes.

Never pulled an 8-32 off though.

Don

[Marcruger]

I have two range rods, one with 8-32 and one with 10-32, the latter being more reassuring for pulling a well-stuck dry ball.  A couple of adaptors with steel threads handles any compatibility issues.  If I was to do it all over again, I'd go all 10-32 as Taylor said.  I guess for me it is a non-issue with strong adaptors. 
God Bless,   Marc

[Not English]

I've never had a problem pulling a dry ball with an 8-32 thread. As long as the jags are screwed tight, there won't be a problem. I've never had an 8-32 thread break or bend when used.The ramrods ends no matter what size always need to be pinned and I cannot stress that enough.

[Daryl]

I've broken brass 8x32 threaded sections on commercial jags when simply cleaning with a tight flannelette patch, but not steel 8x32's in a brass rod tip.
When I purchase a brass jag with a brass screw section, I now cut that off and re-drill and tap for an 8x32 or 10x32 screw threaded section.

[Not English]

Daryl, I wasn't aware of any commercially made jags with brass screw sections. I would be leery as well of brass screw sections. I was talking about steel threads.

[Daryl]

Most jags (sealed bags on hook racks) in the stores I've seen, have brass threaded sections. Some, not designed for muzzleloaders have tapered pointed ends out the front
for piercing patches. I just snip those off and file the ends flat, then cut off the threaded protrusion, drill and tap for a section of machine screw in 8x32 or 10x32, insert one end
of a cut off screw with a drop of CA and it's done.
I've seen sizes on the racks from .30 cal. to 12 bore, even including .50, .54, .58, then 20bore etc in the smoothbores.
I use a slightly turned down 16 bore jag for my .69 (10x32 screw), for using doubled flannelette.

[Greg Pennell]

My range rod is one of the 3/8” Fiberglas rods sold by Dixie back in the day...I’ve had this one for 40 years or so. It’s very sturdy, not at all like the much more flexible rods made of delrin or nylon. I epoxied and pinned threaded tips on both ends...one is 8x32, the other is 10x32, so I’m covered for both.

Greg

[Pukka Bundook]

Going by the old British rods I'm used to, a thread a good deal larger than 8-32 is usual.
I make mine about 2 BA. 
As I make the appropriate tools as well, there is no problem with the size not being quite normal.  :-)
To be honest, I don't like the looks of the small 8-32 threads!   :-)

[Craig Wilcox]

Richard, I've not come across "2BA" before.  But I do like the robust look that the thread has.  Would I have to go to Yorkshire to get a tap and die set, or where?  Doubt that McMaster-Carr has them in stock.

[flinchrocket]

You can tear up about anything if you try hard enough!

[Greg Pennell]

You can tear up about anything if you try hard enough!

Ain’t that the truth!  I once had a vendor come into my office who was selling some sort of new equipment to my Army unit, bragging on how his stuff was “GI proof”. I told him he’d never met my GI’s...

Greg

[RANGER94]

You can tear up about anything if you try hard enough!

Ain’t that the truth!  I once had a vendor come into my office who was selling some sort of new equipment to my Army unit, bragging on how his stuff was “GI proof”. I told him he’d never met my GI’s...

Greg

TRUE!!!

[Bob Roller]

You can tear up about anything if you try hard enough!

My old friend Bob Wilson used to say his 2 year old son David could
break the horn off an anvil with a rubber hammer.
Bob Roller

[Pukka Bundook]

Craig,

Nothing magic about the thread size I use, just a bit beefier than usual.
Any thread a bit larger would do, but I happen to have BA amongst other taps  & dies we brought with us...  :-)

Bob R,
LOL!