Fowler forestock

[bowkill]

I like my guns super skinny but not flat sides. From this picture is this too far still you guys think? It's like a Carolina style gun.
 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

If it were mine,I'd plane down the sides of the forestock 'til I had a little over 1/16" thick left at the barrel channel.  Then I'd take a little more off the rod groove leaving no more than 1/3 of it.  Then round up the sides.  To my eye, you have way too much wood there.

[rich pierce]

Well, before I round the forestock I like to make it about 1/8” wider than the barrel side to side. That leaves 1/8” of extra wood on each side. By the time I’m done rounding/ovalizing it’s less than that ( just saw Taylor’s post. He’s braver than I am. I always fear bruising if rasping or a tear-out if using a plane or spokeshave so allow a little extra). What is the difference between the wood thickness and the barrel thickness right now?


Also general rules are not always enough. The lock bolster determines how much wood remains at where the nose of the lock is. The forearm has to have less than that or you have no lock panel sloping down to the forearm. So these sorts of things determine a lot of the architectural constraints any build has.

[bob in the woods]

Too much wood between the barrel and the bottom of the ramrod groove to my eye. I saw the sides to an 1/8th and then work down from there. 

[Mike Brooks]

1/16" on either side of the barrel on the upper forestock, 1/8"  on the lower forestock. Web is a bit thick....too late now.

[rich pierce]

With some effort one could deepen the ramrod groove, 1/8” deeper at the muzzle and tapering toward the entry hole to make it all a little more trim.

[bowkill]

Kinda looks like the end of a beer bottle..lol   That web is way too thick looks like, have not worked on this gun in over a year and got lost and forgot where i was at.. Going to see if i can lower that ramrod channel, it may not even be straight as far as i know. Need to do some measuring.. Dam pre-carved stock..

[Dave B]

Here are a couple originals for comparison. The first is from a JP Beck rifle in the Cody museum, The second is from a Peter Berry at Auction. Sorry no end view but this shot is instructive. Last two are of a Peter Berry (smooth rifle) as well.



pic sharing






 You could cut your self on the edge of the fore stock on that last Peter Berry. but you can also see that the stock edge has not been free from breakage either. The 1/16" on the fore end is about an 1/8' down from the
 top of the leading edge. Scary thin in my book.

[EC121]

If you cut the ramrod channel sides to about half its height, you will be able to reduce the thickness of the sides a little more.  Look at the second ramrod on Dave B's picture.  It looks like it is hanging out in the breeze because the channel is shallow and a molding has been cut.  The molding could  help compensate for the thick web.  Unless you make the nosecap, you'll still have a gap between the rod and nosecap, but it can't be helped

[Bob McBride]

One of Al Martin’s on my bench....

[smart dog]

Hi,
Original English fowlers.














dave

[fahnenschmied]

Definitely would thin the sides down quite a bit - but the thing that would bother me most is the overheavy barrel thickness at the muzzle. 

[Daryl]

I like my guns super skinny but not flat sides. From this picture is this too far still you guys think? It's like a Carolina style gun.
 

Along with too much wood, I suspect the ramrod groove is undersize as well.

[bowkill]

Still working on it but getting there..

[Pukka Bundook]

I recall Frank House telling me,"Take off enough wood so's you think you've ruined it, then take some more off!

You're looking for more of a knife edge to the top of the barrel channel, Bowkill.
Really, if it doesn't scare you, it's too thick.

[bowkill]

Got her down to a managable level I think.. should make a very light turkey gun..

[Daryl]

Coming along nicely.

[Pukka Bundook]

I agree with Daryl, it's looking a lot better now!

[FALout]

Nice save, looks much better