Horn turning ?

[Dan Herda]

I didnt see anything specific in the tutorials so am asking here. Could someone show a setup of how to hold and turn small pcs of horn tips used for spout plugs or filler plugs in a baseplug. I am wanting to make a plug that goes into a tapered hole in my baseplug on a horn. Im thinking I may need a realy small drive spur.
Thanks for any help.

[Mike from OK]

I don't have any pictures to share and I am far from being in the same class of craftsmanship as most of the folks on here...

I have tried several different methods. All with varying amounts of success.

Sometimes I will start a piece between centers until I get it true enough to transfer to a chuck. And sometimes I just just chuck it and hope for the best... The second method will occasionally get stuff thrown at you so be aware of that.

I have also drilled and tapped pieces and threaded a bolt in and used a nut to lock it in place. But this really only suffices if you plan to drill a larger hole through it later or you can hide the threads. BTW, bolts are stiffer than all-thread if you require a fairly rigid setup to avoid chatter.

There are lots of different methods of you use your imagination. But a decent spur and good live center are an asset.

So...

A decent chuck and a spur/live center are good places to start. I think some of the guys use a pen mandrel for fine work too. I don't have one so I can't comment on one.

Mike

[Dan Herda]

Thanks Mike, I have used a pen mandrel for applied tips. What im wondering about now is solid pcs used as a spout plug or a base refill plug.

[Dan Herda]

Like this

[Sandy]

I would start between centers and turn one end to the desired diameter for the desired length. Next step would be to put it in a collet chuck and turn the decorative end.

[Dale Halterman]

I don't have a chuck, so I just turn one end round between centers like Sandy said. Then, I screw a wooden block on a faceplate and drill or turn a hole in the block that matches the rounded end of the horn and glue the horn into it. Run the tailstock up to the horn for added support if you think is is necessary.

Dale H

[Tim Crosby]

 Start out with a piece longer than what you need, do your turning and trim both ends. Something like this?  Maybe I'm missing some thing.

  Tim

 

[Dan Herda]

I ordered a 3/8 drive spur from pen state and that with a live center should enable me to do what I tried describing.
Thanks for the replys.

[Tim Crosby]

 Ok, let me try this.

 First pick out a tip, the straighter the better:



 Trim the ends, they do not have to be parallel, as you will see in the Pic and mark a center line along the straightest axis:



 Mark a center point on each end. The small end should be pretty much in the center, the other end may be a little off center.



 Indent the center marks, I use a small counter sink and set it up between centers. Now, the little thing you see in the head stock os called a "Steb Center", see the link below. These things are invaluable in horn making.



 Now you can turn your tip to what ever shape/taper you want.



  1/2" will serve you well.  https://www.packardwoodworks.com/lathes-acc-cent-steb.html

  Tim C.

PS: It took me longer to write this up than to do the work, practice is your best friend. TC

[Mike from OK]

Serious question Tim... Not trying to be smart at all... You typed 3/8 Steb center.

Is that 3/8 correct or a typo?

Mike

[Tim Crosby]

Serious question Tim... Not trying to be smart at all... You typed 3/8 Steb center.

Is that 3/8 correct or a typo?

Mike

  I stand corrected, it is a 1/2", put it down to "Brain Fog". Since you are going to trim it off you can turn the piece down to a very small diameter. I use mine for all the horn work I do.

  Tim

[Mike from OK]

Thanks Tim... Only reason i asked is because there was no 3/8 listed on the site you linked. Just making sure you didn't mean 7/8 and made a typo.

Believe me, I understand. Between my fat thumbs and my tablet's "predictive" text things get... discombobulated.

Mike

[Tim Crosby]

 I should add that IMHO using a piece of bone, antler, horn alone as a friction fit finial is probably not the best idea. You will see old horns with a separate friction fit plug, late Phillys as well as some Va. horns come to mind but they usually have a wooden plug. The wood, both woods, butt and finial will swell and shrink but can be pushed in to fit tighter. My thinking is the others horn, what ever is to hard and will after time polish the inside of the hole to the point where it will not be easy to keep in place.
 Part of this thinking is in making horns for sale, I want the customer to be happy and not have a horn that I think to start with will give him problems. Same reason I pin all my bands rather that just heating and pressing them on.

   M2CW, Tim

[Dan Herda]

Great points to consider Tim, thank you.