A Bouncer is a rubbing tool that is used to burnish or tighten the fibers of finished leather. A center seam sheath is one where the seam runs down the middle of the sheath rather than along the edge of the blade it houses. I never really used a bouncer until I started making saddles. Have used one ever since. It has to have some weight to it and be perfectly smooth. So far, my favorite is, of all things, an old ceramic door knob. A glass tumbler with a smooth corner will also do . In the pic, the piece between the two is really a burnisher designed to edge shoe soles, but it will do when flattening or burnishing small areas/
I don’t know the HC which and why of the center seam sheath, but keeping the knife edge off the seam and the look of the thing has a lot of appeal for me. So, we’ll make one here.
Start with a normal pattern where there is a small ear at the top of the fold. That’ll be used to hang or fasten the sheath wherever you want it. I run the seam about a third of the way up the handle and add a small bulge for it. This guy is going to clothe a small patch knife that I’ll probably flip at Dixons with one of my belt bags.
Gauge your leather around the size of the knife. You can get away with anywhere from 4-5 ounce cow for a patch knife to 7-8 ounce cow for a belt knife, depending on the size of your piece. Anything thicker that 7-8 ounce gets hard to work with unless, of course, you need one of them Bowies.
If you are gonna cut the leather dry, I recommend using a hook knife. If wet, then your clicking or round knife has an easier time. Leave some extra leather at the edge. That’ll get trimmed once the seam is closed, and that is an important part of the center seam sheath. I won’t dink around with this, so I close the seam with my Singer Patcher rather than hand stitch it.
Soak for about thirty seconds, let it dry for about a minute.
If need be trim the edge as close to the seam as you dare. You better have a sharp knife.
Poke a dowel down the sheath as far as you can without stretching any leather. This will open the sheath up. With just your fingers and no other tools squeeze the sheath so that the seam is positioned to the middle of the face of the sheath rather than along the blades edge. Flatten it. Maybe a couple of light shots with your hammer or pressure from your bouncer. Note how that ear goes from the edge to the middle of the back of the top. I use a steel block under the project, and rub the seam with the bouncer until the whole sheath flattens.
Now slowly and carefully put the blade into the sheath until it sits where you want it. Work it, flatten some more, bend the tip, work it some more. Flatten, bend, work…flatten, bend, work…Down by the tip, you can bend the pliant leather to curve with the tip of the blade as you insert it. Rub again with a lot of patience and a good firm hand. While helping you shape the sheath, the bouncer has also burnished the edge of the seam. Your bouncer will do a good job of consolidating the fibers of the leather on the back and along the seam. When satisfied, pull and dry the blade and let the project sit until it dries.
Once dry, bathe it in neatsfoot and then dye it to color.
Once it dries again, go over it with a shoe brush and don’t take any prisoners. Put a finish that will give you a patina you like, punch two holes in the ear at the top and one or two at the base and Bob’s your uncle.
The picture falls a little short of showing the texture and aged character on this sheath. One word about distressing or aging; On cowhide, the lower priced hides from the third world will often advertise brand marks, natural scarring or irregularities. Using Neatsfoot oil before dying will sometimes bring features and flaws like that out. Combining that with a duller patina and flattened color on the edging may make your project look like it has been aged. Other than that, the only way to attain aging is through use rather than chemical agents.
If I don’t see you, I’ll see you.
Capgun
