Attaching rib to 13/16 barrel

[elkhart]

In the planning stages for a lightweight plains rifle. The barrel will be 13/16, 45 caliber. I've seen the posts on riveting the rib, and that would be my preferred method. Does a 45 caliber 13/16 barrel have enough wall for riveting?

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Without doing the math, I don't think so.  I fear you will create dimples in the bore from riveting over the studs.

[Scota4570]

Solder it.

[elkhart]

Solder it is, thanks!

[BJH]

Soldering the underrib isn’t as hard as it sounds. The biggest pain is the clean up. This is made easier by useing cold blue and a sharp chisel to carefully pare off any errant flow of solder. The cold blue makes it easy to spot the solder against the bare steel, or even brass. Last time I attached the thimbles with brass screws from the barrel side of the rib and soldered them. In retrospect copper rivets might be easier. Then solder the thimbles. I had no way to use silver solder on the thimbles. All soldering I did was with conventional plumbing solder and flux. BJH

[mountainman70]

You might try pencil graphite lined onto the metal where you DONT want the solder to flow/stick. Especially on rr pipes ,and I would imagine, the sides of the barrel.
 Just rub as much as you can get on the places you dont want soldered. It is amazing how it cleans up.
This is my experience.
Your results may vary.
Good luck, Dave F

[Sidelock]

Agree.  Soldered on rib is the way to go.  I add the suggestion of using a hollow rib rather than solid.  The hollow rib is much easier to tin and solder since there is so much less mass vs. a solid appliance. 

[mikeyfirelock]

Done it both ways.  On a light barrel, solder it.  On a heavy barrel, then river.

[smylee grouch]

I have soldered a few ribs on and after I have all surfaces tinned I heat a 3/8th inch brass rod up hot and place in the bore, this seems to make it easier to heat the barrel up when you join both surfaces.

[alacran]

I have tinned both barrel and rib on a gun I built 20 years ago. Did one recently and used "Solder it " soldering paste, Way easier has a low melting temp when first heated and a higher temp once it has been installed. Home Depot sells it way easier than the tinning process.

[elkhart]

I've used the soldering paste on some round barrel sights, very easy to work with.

The bluing and graphite tips are helpful, thanks

[Scota4570]

A hollow under rib is nice if you can find one.  I have only used a sold one and cut slots on the underside with a milling machine.  By necessity I leave a web of steel every 5" or so.

Flux?  Acid flux is fine to tin the parts.  Once tinned I wash the flux off.  I then re flux with rosin.  You can by "liquid rosin flux" from electronics supply stores.  You could make it with powdered rosin and alcohol.  Rosin is not corrosive.  IF you use acid paste flux there is a chance you rib will separate after a long period of time. 

Heat, I use a MAPP gas torch and or a gasoline plumbers torch.  I start at one end and move the heat down as I go to tin the barrel and rib.  Use the minimum heat necessary.  Tin with a steel wool ball, flux and solder.  Rub it in.   I make no attempt to heat it all at once.  One tinned washed and rosin fluxed, I use a steel ramrod substitute to align everything. I do the pipes and rib in one shot.  I use hay wire and wedges.  IN a addition I use C-claps to make sure the joint is tight. 

Once I am happy with how everything is aligned I heat it .  I start a the muzzle and work back.  I heat from the underside, The barrel side.  IF there're is any doubt as to hot enough I tap the rib with a piece of solder and see if it melts.  The the barrel turns blue that is too hot.  Again I work my way down the barrel, not need to heat it all at once.  If I get no solder squeeze out in a spot I add solder with rosin core solder.  It will wick into the joint. 

The whole thing is easier than it sounds.