Lyman mold handle problem

[alex e.]

I went to remove a mold from a set of Lyman handles.
First screw/ side came off well and easy. The second not so. The screw started  to bugger up so I stopped,.
I applied a generous amount of heat to the area with  no results.  It's now soaking  in oil. What else  is suggested? I've never had this happen.
Am I screwed if the screw breaks off in the mold?

[Mike from OK]

I'm not familiar with Lyman molds and handle attachment at all. Some pictures would be handy to help see what you're up against so suggestions could be made.

How big of a screw are we dealing with?

Mike

[577SXS]

As others have said soak it with penetrating oil. If head is buggered up bad try a metric Allen wrench that is slightly bigger. Get one of the small hammer type impact drivers to force the screw to move. This is a hand held impact you hit with a hammer and holds small sockets and screw driver bits. Last resort buy a left handed drill bit smaller the srew threads and drill it out. With left hand bit as soon as screw wants to move it spins out.

[Daryl]

What make is the mould? Reason being, Lyman use slotted screws while others, like RCBS use Allen head screws.
Let the oil work. As the mould is already on the handles, there is no access to the screw except the screw slot or hole
in the head on the bottom (or top is a tanner mould).
Sounds as if the screw is rusted into the blocks. Give the penetrating oil a chance & let us know the result.
Using a hammer on the end of the screw driver can also help.
Acetone/ATF mix 50:50 is a very good penetrating solvent, & is better than Kroil, although Kroil is very good.

[P.W.Berkuta]

Lyman uses slotted head domed screws which are made out of mild steel. The screws are most likely rusted in place. Soak the mold block in a container of penetrating oil for a few days then remove and using a NON-marring hammer tap on the side of the mold where the screw is - then try to turn the screw to remove if it's not moving try to turn it CCW then CW. I would smack the head of the screw to break up some of the rust that is surrounding the screw threads. If it's not ready to turn return it to the penetrating oil container. Let soak for a few more days then try again. It will be a slow tedious process if that screw is being stubborn. Good luck with it. If all else fails find some one with a milling machine and bore it out.

[Scota4570]

It might be easier to leave it alone and cast bullets.  Use another set of handles for your other blocks? 

[smylee grouch]

I have used one of those vibrating engraving markers to vibrate the screw so the penetrating oil will work its way down along the threads. I have had fairly good luck with this but the other suggestions I think will work too.

[alex e.]

Its soaking.  But I don't have high hopes.  They are slotted screws,and very  soft.
Most likely I'll be buying  a new set of handles as suggested.

[smylee grouch]

Alex, are these the small or large Lyman handles?

[Dennis Glazener]

Its soaking.  But I don't have high hopes.  They are slotted screws,and very  soft.
Most likely I'll be buying  a new set of handles as suggested.

If you have them mix Automatic Transmission Fluid with Acetone and soak them in that for a week or so. If that does not loosen them its a lost cause.
Dennis

[Stoner creek]

As a last case, get it hot and dunk it in water. What do you have to lose?

[Jim Spray]

I had one that was the same way. I got the screw out after soaking it in oil with a impact screw driver. I opened up the bad slot a little and ground a tip to fit. A few hard hits with a hammer did the trick.

[Daniel Coats]

I've had good luck soaking in mineral spirits. Heating and quenching will work as a last resort like Wayne said. I've never seen a bolt that couldn't be loosened in antique car restoration by heating red hot and quenching in water. The bolts had to be replaced of course but they will come out.

[Daryl]

I dislike the heating and quenching process when the problem is a frozen screw in mould blocks. The blocks might warp, which would be very bad. Can't remember where I
read this about iron blocks, but it was likely from Lyman, RCBS, Saeco, Ohaus or maybe even Lee. I use all of these makes of moulds in various guns.

[Collector]

I'm confident that the penetrating oil, if left to do it's work, will remedy this problem.  The mold is locked in the jaws of the mold handle.

A couple of photos to help illustrate the problem:

[Daniel Coats]

I used an Impact wrench to loosen rusted gun screws once. Area couldn't be heated or soaked and I was careful but out they came.

[Scota4570]

If after soaking for a while, and you run out of patience, try heat.  If I were desperate to get eh screw out I would use my 00 tip on an oxy-acetylene torch.  I'd put the blocks in a vice with copper sheet to keep from marring them.  I would then heat the screw head the torch for about a 10 count.  IF the blocks are getting heat colors stop.  I would add my penetrating oil as it cools.  That should suck the oil in.  Before attempting to remove the screw, un-buggar it.  Use a polished flat face round punch to repair the slot.  Use percussion on the screw driver to loosen whatever you can.  The short screwdriver bits are good fot this as you can pick one that fits perfect or is a bit large and tap it in the slot for a tight fit.  I'd grab the screwdriver with a wrench to twist in  and out a fraction until it started to turn.  When attempting to turn use lots of down pressure.  A drill press is good for this.  Use the table vice and turn the pully by hand while applying pressure with the quill.  Good luck.

[alex e.]

I fear it's a lost cause. Its soaked all week. It would not budge.  The head is boogered wonderfully.
New handles ordered.  It's now a dedicated  .600" mold.
Thanks for the help