Author Topic: How to transfer drawings to wood (Read 2503 times)

flatsguide · « **on:** January 28, 2021, 05:20:20 AM »

I drew a shell to carve in the tang area of a rifle. After drawing the shell I scanned it and printed it onto a piece of tracing paper using an inkjet printer. I taped the tracing paper with the image side to the wood. Using my heat gun moved it over the paper while using a burnisher to transfer the ink, it does take quite a bit of heat. You can see the transfer on the dummy carving practice stock and my start of the carving to get a bit of practice in before I start on the real thing. I’m going to try another transfer using acetone. I tried acetone on the tracing paper but oddly enough the acetone will not migrate through the paper. Also in the pics below is the shell that I drew, feel free to copy and use it if you wish. Another thing to note that the area on the stock that the transfer would be located was sanded smooth then polished with grey scotch bright so the wood was very smooth with a satin sheen. Think that method helps with the transfer.
Cheers Richard

Pukka Bundook · « **Reply #1 on:** January 28, 2021, 05:23:13 AM »

Aye, I like the size of that shell, Richard.
Seems right.

Good on the transfer!

Ed Wenger · « **Reply #2 on:** January 28, 2021, 05:31:20 AM »

Interesting! Thanks for the photos and tutorial, Richard. I need to do some experimenting! Best,

Ed

Pukka Bundook · « **Reply #3 on:** January 28, 2021, 05:37:09 AM »

Where'd your related thread go, Richard? Read through a few times and its no showing.

Pukka.

flatsguide · « **Reply #4 on:** January 28, 2021, 05:41:30 AM »

In a PM with the head honcho Dennis it seems that somehow I deleted it. Very frustrating.
Richard

flatsguide · « **Reply #5 on:** January 28, 2021, 05:44:52 AM »

Ed, it was your comment about transferring drawing that got me to thinking how to transfer images. I use something similar to scratch on metal.
Cheers Ed, Richard

Ed Wenger · « **Reply #6 on:** January 28, 2021, 05:51:21 PM »

Thanks, Richard. I do something similar with metal for engraving as well, never thought about doing it with wood. Have you ever tried using an iron to heat/transfer the design? Just wondering if that might more... Best,

Ed

flatsguide · « **Reply #7 on:** January 30, 2021, 02:28:02 AM »

Ed, I inkjet printed the shell carving pattern on Reynolds Parchment paper and used a clothes iron. The pattern transfered just fine...good idea.
Cheers Richard

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #8 on:** January 30, 2021, 02:34:54 AM »

Richard: I may be missing something here, but the carving is the LAST thing that I do. I don't see a breech tang, side plate, etc. on this rifle yet???

flatsguide · « **Reply #9 on:** January 30, 2021, 03:11:10 AM »

Hi Taylor, it is just a short section of a stock for practice before I tackle the real rifle.
Thanks Richard

577SXS · « **Reply #10 on:** January 30, 2021, 04:31:33 AM »

I use black carbon paper to transfer drawings or photos.

Ed Wenger · « **Reply #11 on:** January 30, 2021, 05:14:54 AM »

Thanks, Richard! I’ll be giving that a try! Best,

Ed

BOB HILL · « **Reply #12 on:** January 30, 2021, 06:31:47 AM »

Thanks for the great tip, Richard.
Bob

rich pierce · « **Reply #13 on:** January 30, 2021, 07:38:54 AM »

Quote from: 577SXS on January 30, 2021, 04:31:33 AM

I use black carbon paper to transfer drawings or photos.

Also works for transferring for engraving.

flatsguide · « **Reply #14 on:** January 31, 2021, 05:10:41 AM »

Rich, try dissolving rosin in alcohol and brush that solution onto metal then transfer the inkjet image that’s on the parchment paper to the metal. See if that works better for you.
Richard

ajcraig · « **Reply #15 on:** January 31, 2021, 09:04:36 PM »

I get very good transfer results on brass by printing the design with a laser printer on regular paper and using acetone to transfer the design to the brass. Excellent detail and pretty durable, but I don't know if acetone should be used on wood.

elkhorne · « **Reply #16 on:** January 31, 2021, 10:50:46 PM »

ajcraig,
We used your same transfer technique on wood in John Schipper’s carving class at Conners Prairie and it worked just fine. As far as the acetone, will have to experiment with a couple of finishes but I think the acetone mostly just evaporates. Anyone else that has used this or similar technique please chime in.
Regards,
elkhorne

ajcraig · « **Reply #17 on:** January 31, 2021, 11:04:28 PM »

Here's before and after pictures showing the detail that acetone can transfer to brass. In the first picture I've starting cutting the outline of the shad. I will definitely be trying this on wood.

flatsguide · « **Reply #18 on:** February 01, 2021, 03:39:03 AM »

I agree aj I use that method on metal on woo I would suspect that if one used to much acetone it might carry the ink into the wood.
Richard
PS AJ that looks nice...try a bonefish next.
Thanks Richard

Dwshotwell · « **Reply #19 on:** February 08, 2021, 12:24:36 AM »

I just tried using regular paper and a printed design from my laser jet printer. I taped it to a practice stock, hit it with my heat gun, and used an old screwdriver as a burnisher. It worked great - when I pulled the paper off there was a perfect outline of what I had printed. Pay no attention to the location and design - this was just a test on a practice stock, and while you can't see it in the picture I was putting it in a spot where the curve still somewhat resembled the shape it was supposed to have - the rest has been carved and rasped off three or four times at this point.

So, I know I've seen it said on here in other threads that if you can't draw the design, you probably can't carve it well. I guess we're going to find out! I've been trying to draw a proper design now for a long time. I can never get the curves to flow. Maybe by stealing a design or two I can pull it off. Time will tell.

flatsguide · « **Reply #20 on:** February 08, 2021, 07:42:48 AM »

Shotwell, that transfer turned out great. I tried a transfer onto a darker piece of English walnut and was happy to see the transfer was quite visible on the darker wood.
I have been practicing my clamshell design carving on a dense piece of English walnut. It has been challenging as I’m not a carver and my eyes are really starting to go bad. I normally use a #5 Optivisor lens but moved to a #10; still a lot of eye strain. Another thing I’m finding out is when I’m carving the practice piece I swap it end for end and rotate the vise constantly to get the right cut angle and grain direction. On the full length rifle that will be a major hassle and I’m thinking of getting a telescoping/rotating vise stand that I can bolt to the floor. Any comments or ideas about this please share the gthoughts.
The clamshell carving is not finished and it still needs a lot of refinement. One thing that I tried and it appears to get a good 3D effect is after stabbing in the pattern and removing the wood next to the pattern is to contour the shell with a “S” shaped cross section, you might be able to see it in the photos, the shell seems to “model better. I have mainly been using my Dockyard miniature chisels and gouges. I’m pretty happy with the results so far and am learning a lot about sequence of cuts and what tools to use and more importantly what tool not to use.
Constructive criticism and ideas are always welcome.
Thanks, Richard

rich pierce · « **Reply #21 on:** February 08, 2021, 07:51:14 AM »

I hope you didn’t use up all your good cuts on the practice piece! Should make a tutorial out of it.

flatsguide · « **Reply #22 on:** February 08, 2021, 08:00:21 AM »

That’s funny Rich...I hope so too.
Cheers Richard

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Author Topic: How to transfer drawings to wood (Read 2503 times)