Need tips on wriggle engraving

[Taylorz1]

Great posts all ! I know this isnt directly related to the original post and can make another topic of need be but (and im embarrassed to say it)- my results with wiggle engraving have been hit or miss. Does anyone have tips on sharpening the graver or any technique tips ? Thanks and best

Zack

[Shreckmeister]

Great posts all ! I know this isnt directly related to the original post and can make another topic of need be but (and im embarrassed to say it)- my results with wiggle engraving have been hit or miss. Does anyone have tips on sharpening the graver or any technique tips ? Thanks and best

Zack

Position yourself above the work.  It's more effective in putting downward force on it.

[Craig Wilcox]

I find the wriggle technique to be very attractive, and have tried it on a few bits and pieces.  But a question:  Is the graver struck with the mallet for each "wriggle", or is it merely the downforce from the engraver's hand?

When I have tried it, I just used my hand/wrist for the downforce.  Easy and very quick - but the results are very shallow, and I fear they would soon disappear from cleaning, wear, etc.

[Taylorz1]

Thats been my issue Craig. I cant  seem to het the same depth I see in originals and when I push harder it gets inconsistent. I think the stand over the work tip is good as I have felt like its hard to get even pressure when doing the wak. I always seem to dig my corners in too much and think my graver needs tweaking

[Shreckmeister]

Depending on your brass content, I can see difficulty getting it deep, but silver should not be an issue.  I think the old gunsmiths were a bit stronger than
we are today, generally speaking.  I'm confident they didn't strike it.

[Mike Brooks]

Sharpen your graver into a wedge shape. Get it sharp. Get over the top of it and walk it. It kills my wrist after about 3 minutes. It does take some practice to get consistent results.

[jrb]

both Jack Brooks and Wallace Gusler demonstrate it on their rifle engraving DVDs.

[Ky-Flinter]

I learned this technique from Jack Brooks and the old guns. Place the barrel or inlay about waist high, sketch a centerline of pattern to follow, place your feet in a good position and rotate or move feet as you follow the pattern. Place your shoulder above the piece and use your weight to put pressure down on the graver. As Mike mentioned - sharp, get over the top and walk it. Jack and I are big boys, up on our toes to bring weight to bear, and don’t use our wrist except to walk the tool. No chasing hammer - this is a hand graver, short stem with large ball in palm, like the graver handles Ron Scott has for sale here. With a bit of practice, it comes quickly, could wriggle this barrel in two minutes, the wriggle on patchbox lid and sideplates in 5 minutes. Can vary the effect from tight and consistent for some applications, to quick and loose where appropriate. Can also cut curved lines between points around curves for an interesting look, which comes naturally walking around curves.

[horologist]

Having a tool with some mass might help. When I took John Schippers engraving class he had one made from the ball of a trailer hitch.
I made one for someone in the class but never got around to making one for myself.



I tried both the trailer hitch and a more conventional tool and was only able to make a sort of drunken meandering mess on my practice plate so am not the one to talk to for technique.

Troy

[T*O*F]

Wriggle engraving has been traced back as far as Egyptian times.  It is commonly used today in Western bright cut engraving and on brass instruments.

The graver is not held 90 degrees to the work, but rather tipped back several degrees.  This gives the depth.  At 90 degrees, you are just making indents.  Brute strength in not required.

[Scota4570]

I am a novice engraver.

I find myself pushing down and making a figure 8 motion with the handle.  I "duckwalk" the tool along the path.  My tool is chisel shaped point with a bout 30* bevel.  IT made from made from a piece of 1/8" square high speed engraver blank.   

Am a doing it right?

[john bohan]

I made mine from an old chain saw file ,beveled from both sides,then ground to width you like. A good way to practice would be to draw a line then with a water glass ,centered on line rock it back and forth. you will learn to follow the line and advance the glass.

[Taylorz1]

Thank you to the administrator who brought my question over to here and thank you to all the great suggestions ! Very much appreciated. I have a stack of old kick plates and am going to cinch this technique up with everyones help. Thank you again very much to all

Zack t 

[Craig Wilcox]

I found that my best work was done with a small flat-bladed screwdriver that I sharpened similar to a chisel, but with a bevel on each edge.  It had a 1/8" flat blade, and the work went pretty quick.  Also made a similar "graver" from a piece of O-1 steel, then hardened and tempered it, much as you would do to make a chisel, but with the bevel on both sides.  I guess one could make a "wriggle graver" to whatever width he/she would want.

[A.Merrill]

   Anybody got a picture of the tip of this engraver ?   Al

[Clint]

Once you get your chisel sharpened the way you think it should be, try cutting on a clear cd box. The plastic will cut easily and you can see very well to measure the width of the cut and the amount of advance your twist provides. You might experiment with altering the angles, the width and mabey a tiny radius on the corners. You can use push burins on plastic for diagnosis and examine the cuts with a loupe.  Go ahead and engrave all of your cd cases or old cassett boxes.