Sealing ram rod hole?

[MicahKautchick]

I'm in the process of finishing my first long rifle. I've decided to stain the rifle with aqua fortis and seal it with birchwood caseys tru-oil. I also have some thinner permalyn sealer to seal the wood under the metal furniture. Everything will be sealed except the inside of the ramrod hole, does anyone here bother sealing inside their ramrod hole?



Here are some photos of my rifle drying. The wood is maple I bought from a lumberyard in PA.

[David Rase]

I don't seal under any of the metal parts, let alone the ramrod hole.  Don't see a lot of old rifles that are sealed under the metal and they have survived 200 years so why fix something that is not broke.
David.

[MicahKautchick]

Thanks for your input Dave, that's good to know.

[David Rase]

Thanks for your input Dave, that's good to know.

I used to seal the entire rifle, then I got tired of having to spend an entire day reinletting all the metal parts due to swelling and finish buildup.  I am sure many out there will blast me for not sealing but to each there own.
David

[Mike Brooks]

Thanks for your input Dave, that's good to know.

I used to seal the entire rifle, then I got tired of having to spend an entire day reinletting all the metal parts due to swelling and finish buildup.  I am sure many out there will blast me for not sealing but to each there own.
David

I quit sealing under the metal parts for the same reason as Rase. That and I have never seen any originals with finish on the inside of anything.

[t.caster]

I don't see any problem with sealing under the removeable parts, since they are all off during the stain & finish process anyway. I always seal the barrel channel and the end grain under the buttplate. You might have to scrape the inlets a little to get some of the parts back in again though. No biggy. Sealer coat soaks in, so no problem, but finish will build up.
Agreed, originals show no finish under inlays, and that is why so many brass parts are sticking up out of the wood years later. IMHO.

I NEVER even THOUGHT of sealing the rr hole!

[Gaeckle]

I don't seal under metal parts for the same reason that Mike and  David have stated,  makes more problems than I need to have 

[Mike Brooks]

I am leaving more and more parts on the stock as I finish these days too. Metallic patchboxes, trigger plates, nose caps, rear ram rod pipe, buttpates if they are formed from sheet brass, sideplats...etc.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

When I drill the rod hole, I use beeswax as a drill-shaft lubricant, so I don't feel the need to add additional sealer in there.  I seal under the butt plate, inside the lock and trigger mortises, and the barrel channel especially.  I seal the inside of the patchbox cavity, but don't stain it.

[Dave R]

My thoughts on sealing ram rod hole and all wood normally left not sealed ,  it depends if it will be used in adverse wet or just high humidity conditions! I have had ramrods stick in the forend in high moisture conditions rendering them useless and wished I sealed it as well as the ramrod!! You never know what the muzzleloader will be subjected to by yourself or future owners!

[alacran]

Why would they have sealed anything, when they didn't have any sealers? The finish they used didn't seal anything.
We do have sealers and it will not hurt to seal under the metal parts.

[577SXS]

I seal all the wood. I live in North Carolina where we have HIGH humidity all the time. I've had a ramrod stick in a gun too as Dave said. I see no reason to not seal all the wood. Maybe this is why tenons need to be slotted, if all the wood is not sealed then you get huge changes in expansion if only one side is sealed. It's never good to seal only one side of wood, causes warping. Another thing if you have a good fit between wood and metal the swelling can lock the parts together until dry. If you get you gun wet and try to take apart to clean you might break something and if you wait for it to dry you may have rust when you do get it apart.

[Stophel]

The solution for sticking ramrods (and the period correct one) is to scrape your ramrod down a hair smaller.   And taper it on the lower end (which is often necessary anyway just to get past the lock bolt).   

[David Rase]

The solution for sticking ramrods (and the period correct one) is to scrape your ramrod down a hair smaller.   And taper it on the lower end (which is often necessary anyway just to get past the lock bolt).   

I found the real solution for sticking ramrods is to cut and scrape your own from a straight grained hickory board.  If you follow the grain and scrape it slightly undersize and tapered, the wave of the grain will give just enough spring tension to keep it in place but loose enough to slide in and out of your lower forestock.
David