Verner Carving

[Ats5331]

Hi all,

Not that my work holds a candle to some of the work and craftsmanship on here, but I thought I would be brave and post some pictures!

Trying to mimic the Verner rifle from "An Intimate Look at the American Longrifle" (yes, I know it isn't his only work!)

Happy to listen to any tips or suggestions that more experienced builders have for a 25 year old novice:)

-Allen

[mikeyfirelock]

You’re doing better work than I do and I’ve been doing this off and on since 1972.........keep it up !!!

[Bill Raby]

Looks pretty good. You can smooth it all out with a small riffler.

[Ed Wenger]

Allen..., I really like the look of the butt architecture.  My only suggestion would be to try various size gouges to create the circles and curves that make up the incised carving.  I’m guessing you used a “V” gouge for the incised carving?  If so, it’s really difficult (for me!) to get nice, smooth round designs, especially if they’re small and tight, with a “V” gouge.  It doesn’t necessarily take a huge collection of gouges to achieve the desired design, three or four of various sizes that build on each other, and a “V” gouge to tie them in.


             Ed

[Ats5331]

Allen..., I really like the look of the butt architecture.  My only suggestion would be to try various size gouges to create the circles and curves that make up the incised carving.  I’m guessing you used a “V” gouge for the incised carving?  If so, it’s really difficult (for me!) to get nice, smooth round designs, especially if they’re small and tight, with a “V” gouge.  It doesn’t necessarily take a huge collection of gouges to achieve the desired design, three or four of various sizes that build on each other, and a “V” gouge to tie them in.


             Ed

Hi Ed, yeah, I used a 15/3 Pfeil 3mm V Gouge. What/Which would you suggest?

Thanks to all for suggestions!

[Jerry V Lape]

I like to use these three pfeil gouges most in this order D11/1, D11/2 and an 8/3.  The gouges let me roll them through the tight part of curves giving emphasis to the outside of the curves much like calligraphy.  V tool won't let me do that.  Look at some of Jim Kibler's incised work to see real mastery of this effect.  I also have a selection of V tools and the one I like most is D12/2 which is useful for fine shading lines in relief carving but not for incised outlines. 

[t.caster]

I use a 1mm V tool (bought in Japan) for everything. It is a 50%push/50%pull operation and I use a finger or thumb for a pivot point depending on rotation of curve. I often use my other hand to push back while cutting to prevent over runs. hope this helps some.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Like Mr. Caster, I use a parting tool to outline my incised carving.  But I use small gouges and sweeps to do some of the tiny sharp curves too.  And like Tom, I use the thumb on my other hand to act as a stop, putting a lot of back pressure against my carving hand.  I strop my chisels often to keep them as sharp as possible during the cutting, otherwise, it's easy to get a snow plowing and tearing cut which ruins the carving.  Here's a Verner rifle I did several years ago, with these techniques...

[J Henry]

 t. caster ,,VERY nice, with the correct dies/stains that will jump out at you, VERY nice work, master each tool before you move on, you have this one figured out !!!!! I found out my sander is my best fall back tool ,,

[t.caster]

Like Mr. Sapergia said!

[Ed Wenger]

Allen..., this is a photo of the gouges I use the most for incised work.  The three Ramelson gouges on the bottom don’t have sizes associated with them, basically they’re a small, tight curve, then the next two step up in size.  I’m pretty sure I bought them as a set from Woodcraft.  The D 5/3 and 7/2 are small slightly curved gouges.  Another that I didn’t include in the photo is a fishtail gouge F7/6.  I’ve found you can do just about any size curve, circle, volute, etc., with these.  Lastly is a small stabbing tool fashioned from a scratch awl, and the “V” gouge.

When I use gouges to make incised lines, they’re stabbed into the wood, tilting the tool towards the inside of the design.  Then, with the gouge tilted away from the design, it’s stabbed in again.  This will result in a “V” shaped, very small piece of wedge shaped wood that pops out to form the incised line.  Hope that makes sense.  On longer lines I typically just use the “V” gouge.

[t.caster]

Ed, different method but same results. Very nice indeed!

[Ed Wenger]

Absolutely, Tom!  Different strokes..., and likewise!  Best,

Ed

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Really nice work Ed and Tom!  OP:  some of your lines have elbows, collapsed curves and corners where the curve should be uniform.  It is vital that the layout in pencil be done exactly as you want the design.  Otherwise it is unlikely that it can be cut smoothly.  The layout isn't just some ideas - a guideline...it is a precise line to follow with the cutters.  This is easier to describe than execute, I know.

[flatsguide]

Great examples of carving. Thanks for sharing, also that little Japanese chisel is pretty neat; I understand the 50% push but don’t understand the 50%pull when using that chisel.
Regards Richard

[t.caster]

flatsguide, the 50% pull is like driving with your foot on the brake. The opposite hand/finger keeps your push hand from spinning out. Actually I keep my opposite hand on my pivot point to keep that from sliding off the wood. I hope that makes sense.

[flatsguide]

Got it Tom, thanks.
Richard