weather proofing your bag

[Tilefish]

Was just wondering what others use to weather proof there bags. We hunt in a lot of rain down here in Florida and was looking for some suggestions.

Thanks:
Chad

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Make your bag out of oil skin canvas...waterproof.

[hawkeye]

Neatsfoot oil will do the job

[Marcruger]

If it is a leather bag, I use Montana Pitch Blend.  Foolproof to apply. 

[Tilefish]

If it is a leather bag, I use Montana Pitch Blend.  Foolproof to apply.

Do you use the dressing or the oil. They are leather bags.

Thanks
Chad

[Brokennock]

I use combinations of pure 100% mink oil, usually what Track of The Wolf sells for patch lube, 100% neatsfoot oil (not the compound), and beeswax. And of course, heat to get it all worked in. Which product I use can depend on type of leather, location on the bag or strap, and sometimes a combo of all 3 is used.

Truth be told. I will occasionally cheat and use some Sno-seal for some things.

[James Rogers]

Montana Pitch Blend. I think you can get small tins but I buy it by the 3lb tub

[Marcruger]

It’s the MPB Leather Dressing. 

[Tilefish]

Thank you for all the suggestions. I ordered some of the Montana pitch blend to give it a try.

[Marcruger]

Chad, you just rub it into the leather with your fingertips.  Let it dry, and buff.  As I said, foolproof and a beautiful finish that is fairly waterproof.  If it wears, you just add another coat.  It will darken the leather a shade, so stop with your dye process a shade lighter than you ultimately want.  God Bless,   Marc

[MuskratMike]

I agree with Hawkeye, use 100% PURE Neatsfoot oil then your bag will be waterproof and the remainder makes great patch lube.

[Not English]

What Hawkeye and Muskrat Mike said, the neatsfoot oil compound has been known to rot linen stitching. Only use 100% pure.

[alacran]

Snowseal works pretty good too. Never heard of it till I left Florida.

[hawkeye]

I meant 100% pure neatsfootoil, never use neatsfoot compound

[Marcruger]

I use pure neatsfoot oil in my finishing process, to restore natural oils to leather that has been tanned and dyed (both of which dry the hide).  That said, I do not consider the neatsfoot oil to be a final finish.  I use it between the dye stage and the finish stage.  I also let the oil settle overnight before adding my MPB top finish. 

I add neatsfoot oil sparingly, and apply it with a paper towel.  The rule I was taught was that you rub on a thin coat with a paper towel, and if it all absorbs before 3 seconds, then add another coat.  When it doesn't absorb fully in 3 seconds, stop, and wipe off excess oil.  You're done oiling.   

Too much neatsfoot oil will turn leather black and make it soggy and floppy. 

Just my experience, and I hope it helps others.   God Bless,   Marc