Rounding rifle stock

[hortonstn]

I'm building a bivens style Lancaster 36 cal I need some tips on rounding the stock I seem to get confused in this step it's an A weight
Thanks

[Ed Wenger]

It helps me, when shaping a stock, to think of it, and shape it, like an octagon.  Top, bottom, sides, and obliques.  Especially through the wrist and forearm area, which are typically more “round”.  Form the area to that octagonal shape, then round off corners, rather than just trying to “make it round, or oval”.  Also, as Jack Brooks taught me, think of the stock as a fish, which is identical on both sides.  Do the same to one side as you did to the other, if that makes sense.  Best,

           Ed

[rich pierce]

I use concave scrapers of different radius to show where I need to work more to round things and fix flat spots. I’ll scribble on the stock with a carpenter’s pencil then scrape. It shows the high and low spots.

[Frozen Run]

Ian Pratt says you need to "learn to look" at the wood. Look at it from different angles, take a step back and look at it from a distance, take it out of the vice, turn it around in your hands against a white background, and different lighting conditions, take it outside in the sunlight, run your hands down it, really study it. I saw him at a gun building demonstration and it was enlightening to see how engaged he was while working, he never hesitated to stop and study what the piece was telling him, the actual tool work seemed secondary.       

[hortonstn]

You are the best
Thanks
Paul

[Scota4570]

If you have never seen a nice example, and handled it, knowing what the  goal will be a problem.  I have used the plans from Track.  They show cross sections and details.  Also study as many pictures as you can . 

[P.W.Berkuta]

The act of touch, feel and looking at an original is best but doing the same with a rifle made by a modern master can have the same effect on your outcome -- pictures are a start but you need to touch, feel and look at a GOOD rifle to really get the true picture .

[rich pierce]

It’s possible to pick up “beater” condition originals that are largely intact at least in architecture for not a lot of money. A plain, unsigned, converted to percussion, 1790-1820s Pennsylvania longrifle with some issues can be found here and there for around tgd price of a set of parts or a kit gun.

[Frozen Run]

It’s possible to pick up “beater” condition originals that are largely intact at least in architecture for not a lot of money. A plain, unsigned, converted to percussion, 1790-1820s Pennsylvania longrifle with some issues can be found here and there for around tgd price of a set of parts or a kit gun.

Wow, this is an amazing tip, it really got the wheels turning in my head! I always see people buying up busted up originals and thought they just wanted a wall hanger or an affordable antique...Thank you!

[Dave B]

Where are you located? Most folks here are willing to show and tell if you sent too far from a remember. Other wise getting as much information about the rifles on CD from the KRA. The zoom features help see the details

[hortonstn]

Thanks I got it done now to finish the rest of the rifle
I watch a lot of videos I bet I've watched mike millers new one at least 15 times
That's how I spend my time on the treadmill