Pistol grain orientation

[kudu]

So whats the the best way to run the grain?
Lengthways with the barrel and reinforce the grip with dowel under the tang and down thru grip.
Its going to be a "cane" handel .40 cal to shoot paper.

[davebozell]

For the cane handled pistol I built, I used the hardest piece of maple I could find.  The grain ran straight with the barrel.  I did not reinforce the grip, but I cut out the grip as my last step.  I even shaped the outside of the grip before cutting out the inside.

[Stoner creek]

For those of you who are concerned about the strength of maple, take a piece of 1/4 inch thick scrap from a previous build and try to break it bare handed. Slab sawed, quarter sawed, it doesn’t matter. I’m dumbfounded by guys asking about the strength of maple these days. Dumb question. It’s not like we need it to use as a club to beat the brains out of an adversary. This ain’t Balsa wood that we’re working with.

[Cory Joe Stewart]

For those of you who are concerned about the strength of maple, take a piece of 1/4 inch thick scrap from a previous build and try to break it bare handed. Slab sawed, quarter sawed, it doesn’t matter. I’m dumbfounded by guys asking about the strength of maple these days. Dumb question. It’s not like we need it to use as a club to beat the brains out of an adversary. This ain’t Balsa wood that we’re working with.

Are there wood species that should be of more concern with grain direction?  I am thinking particularly of Walnut or Cherry.

Cory Joe Stewart

[alacran]

Unless you are building a pistol with a very large bore, and plan to shoot heavy charges with it There is no reason for concern.
If you are planning the above , you wouldn't want to use quarter sawed wood.
If you are building a target pistol of light caliber, .54 or below with a fast twist barrel, even quarter sawed wood would work.
The only pistol stock I have seen break was one being loaded on a crappy loading stand that didn't support the grip. It broke while being loaded.

[Daryl]

The only pistol stock I have seen break was one being loaded on a crappy loading stand that didn't support the grip. It broke while being loaded.

I can certainly "see" that happening when using a stand for loading. I load mine with fairly snug loads, in my hands and held between my knees if I need both hands for an operation
like trimming an uncut patch. NP.

[Scota4570]

I make the stand so it fully supports the grip and add a piece of leather to the stand to prevent marring the gun. 

[Steeltrap]

Scota4570.....Thanks for that idea!!  I've wanted to build a pistol loader for many years now and Just couldn't figure out the best way. Currently I just load the pistol by tucking it in-between my arm and chest. That way it "gives" and I'm not putting all the stress on the pistol handle end.

But this build you did will allow the full handle to support the stress of loading.

Thanks!

[Rolf]

These pistols are caliber 20mm(0.80)  and stocked in curly english walnut, grain running length wise . I use 60grain 3f black powder as standard load. Have tried 90grains, but the recoil was uncomfortable. No problems with the stocks.


Best regards
Rolf

[Craig Wilcox]

Having several pistols on the bench, I appreciate the information.

[David Rase]

For those of you who are concerned about the strength of maple, take a piece of 1/4 inch thick scrap from a previous build and try to break it bare handed. Slab sawed, quarter sawed, it doesn’t matter. I’m dumbfounded by guys asking about the strength of maple these days. Dumb question. It’s not like we need it to use as a club to beat the brains out of an adversary. This ain’t Balsa wood that we’re working with.

I will continue to be one of "those guys" who obsesses over grain structure thank you.    
David

[jim alford]

Me too Dave. For whatever that's worth.

[Ron Scott]

These are not bad layouts, but just as important they are very dense.

[Rolf]

Those are really beatuiful blanks, Ron. What would something like that cost?

Best regards
Rolf

[Ron Scott]

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