pivoting patchbox latch

[martin9]

I want to put a pivoting patchbox on a build I'm just getting started on. I have never seen how the latch works on one of these. I have my own ideas of how I'm going to do it....basically a smaller version of a sliding patchbox spring/latch with a notch cut into the buttplate. I would love to see a pic or two of different ways of doing this. 

[Eric Kettenburg]

By 'pivoting' do you mean either a brass or wood lid that swivels up or down relative to the stock when held in shooting form?  If so then yes, the release is essentially the same as a wood box spring, but you must leave a web of wood between cavity and buttplate so you can chisel a groove to act as the 'catch.'

Springs should be lightly tensioned; no need for a killer spring which will subsequently scar up the stock as the box swivels.  Swiveling down (toward toe) usually works best as the stock wood typically tends to fall away from the spring so minimal scratching or drag.

[martin9]

Yes, the rotating/swinging type of wooden lid patchbox. I've seen Don Bruton use this type box a lot. I like these more than the sliding wood box as I lost a lid one time on my Jaeger, I did find it later:>)

[Daniel Coats]

Here's a good picture off Don's website.

[Eric Kettenburg]

Is there a spring on that?  Or is the stud visible at the lower edge designed to act as a 'stop?'

[Eric Kettenburg]

[martin9]

I'm also wondering how that stud functions. Erics' box latch was what I envisioned for mine. Thanks for the pics.

[David Rase]

Here are 3 photos of my Pratt N.C. swivel patch box lid.
David

[Dale Halterman]

Is this a southern thing?

Dale H

[martin9]

Good pics David, Thank you. I believe I've got a handle on it now.  I really like this style box. Easier to make than a sliding box and won't get lost. The only trade off I see is the cavity isn't quite as big.

 

[BOB HILL]

Early Deep River School, N. C. The ones with the stud are kept tight with an adjustment of the screw. The stud keeps it from pivoting downward.
Bob

[rsells]

Dave,
Thanks a bunch for the photographs.  I had posted a similar question  a couple times earlier because of a NC Early Deep River School build coming up, but I never got any response.  I think Ian's design is in line with the original I am trying to copy. Do  you just keep finger pressure on the spring when opening the pb lid to keep the spring from scrubbing the stock?  That is the concern I have been working on in my head.
                                                                                  Roger Sells

[Daryl]

Good pics David, Thank you. I believe I've got a handle on it now.  I really like this style box. Easier to make than a sliding box and won't get lost. The only trade off I see is the cavity isn't quite as big.

The way I see it, the cavity & covering lid can be any size you want them to be.

[martin9]

It could be, I think for the best strength hinge you might want to screw down the lid in the middlish instead of on the point of the lid....which would limit the size of the cavity. One could do another small cavity under the point of the lid I suppose. I only use patchboxes for a couple spare flints and a small turnscrew so that might work out well for me.   

[Daryl]

All of the boxes pictured, are smaller than they could be & most, by a lot.

[B.Barker]

Sometimes the wood likes to warp after you put a screw through them and tighten them down. First one I made did that to me. I could remove it and it would straighten out but if I reattached it the thing would be warped the next morning. Never could figure out why it did that. The screw isn't very tight so I don't think that they would be very much stress on it to cause warpage. Have a couple different pieces just in case.

[EC121]

On my Joe Schell Carolina rifle he left the buttplate ever so slightly proud of the wood so the catch could slide down the metal toward the toe.

[rsells]

EC121,
Thanks.  Such a simple solution to my concerns about the spring scuffing the stock finish.
                                                                                      Roger Sells

[wattlebuster]

Joe did the same on my turkey gun. Very simple and effective

[Craig Wilcox]

On the swiveling lid with the little metal stop, the bottom of the lid is notched to accept the protruding stop, terminating at the point that the lid is in the proper position.
I would think that you would need a bit of tension on the pivot screw, to keep the lid from opening inadvertently.
I was wondering if the "stop" was made of silver, as it shines so nicely.
Interesting to see the variations in the manner of moving the lid to access the cavity, and locking it in place when closed.  Nice to see many different ways of achieving the same goal.  We are a creative bunch, aren't we?

[Daryl]

This type of a lid, hinging/swivelling, might be less water tight than any other. Just a thought, that it might take very tight work, on the upper surface.
The bottom is less important.
Building in a slight ridge around the hole might work, as well as preventing scuffing from the spring due to the instant clearance. Again, just a thought.