Author Topic: SMR Patchbox  (Read 1386 times)

Offline Scota4570

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SMR Patchbox
« on: April 19, 2021, 07:41:32 PM »
I decided to add a patchbox. I have so much stuff for so many rifles that I want to keep acessorties for each rifle with that rifle. 

Somebody once did tutorial on how to make the release.  Anyone have a link to it?   

I must build the project in my mind before I proceed.  I don't fee comfortable tearing into such a nice rifle without knowing where I am headed. : )




Offline smallpatch

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Re: SMR Patchbox
« Reply #1 on: April 19, 2021, 08:02:30 PM »
Scot,
You should have done that BEFORE finish. You know your going to have to refinish that, right?!

This is from a previous build for someone on this site.  It’s a pretty good example. Not a tutorial, but it’s pretty much what you need for what you’re doing.
Catch is made from a cut nail, spring from hacksaw blade I believe.


« Last Edit: April 19, 2021, 08:07:10 PM by smallpatch »
In His grip,

Dane

Offline Tim Ault

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Re: SMR Patchbox
« Reply #2 on: April 19, 2021, 08:05:39 PM »
Here's the link I think you want . I just did this for mine and they work great . Made the lid spring from a hack saw blade and the release from a tang off an old file   https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=2613.0

Offline Scota4570

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Re: SMR Patchbox
« Reply #3 on: April 19, 2021, 08:25:03 PM »
I have no issue with patching the wood finish.  I assembled the rifle several years ago and was not interested in a patchbox then. 

Releases?  I see most of them are a big head nail.  I'd really hate to nail my patchbox closed or break the shank of the nail off.  IT seems like a simple method for someone who has made several.  But, risky for a first attempt. 

One of the pictures shows and L-shape spring that is screwed to the inside of the box cavity.  This looks like I can cut and try to make it right.  I like that in theory.  Any comments on this style of catch? 

Offline smallpatch

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Re: SMR Patchbox
« Reply #4 on: April 19, 2021, 08:45:46 PM »
Scott,
The mail only bends about 1/64 of an inch.  Not going to break a cut nail.  I’ve only made a couple of these, and they work well.
It’s a bit scary, but you can do it!
In His grip,

Dane

Offline Jim Kibler

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Re: SMR Patchbox
« Reply #5 on: April 19, 2021, 09:07:01 PM »
You might want to taper the box just a touch.  Depending on the look you want, a little shorter is an option as well.  A tip for the release spring is to make sure it isn't too thick.  This can happen pretty easily and it can end up to stiff.  When making it, clamp it in a vise and test the force required to make it move.

Jim

Offline Tim Ault

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Re: SMR Patchbox
« Reply #6 on: April 19, 2021, 09:50:37 PM »
I have no issue with patching the wood finish.  I assembled the rifle several years ago and was not interested in a patchbox then. 

Releases?  I see most of them are a big head nail.  I'd really hate to nail my patchbox closed or break the shank of the nail off.  IT seems like a simple method for someone who has made several.  But, risky for a first attempt. 

One of the pictures shows and L-shape spring that is screwed to the inside of the box cavity.  This looks like I can cut and try to make it right.  I like that in theory.  Any comments on this style of catch?
  When I formed my release "nail"  from that file tang it was my first attemp also , I made it pretty darn thin about a .060 wide and.030 thick . Once I heated and quenched and annealed as was did in the tutorial I could flex it about an 1/8" lots more than is actually needed . I don't know if a cut nail gets that springy or not

Offline T*O*F

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Re: SMR Patchbox
« Reply #7 on: April 19, 2021, 11:51:51 PM »
You can take a hack saw blade or piece of spring steel and make 2 bends in it (red hot).  Screw the base into the bottom of the hole.  Make the top bend longer than you need so you can file it to fit.  Then reharden and retemper.



Dave Kanger

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Offline Scota4570

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Re: SMR Patchbox
« Reply #8 on: April 19, 2021, 11:52:29 PM »
I checked around and could find no cut nails.  Out here in California few people have any hands on skills so supplies are few.  I'll forge something out of spring steel. 

I crossed with the previous post in the interweb ethers.  That looks like a good idea. 

Offline Jim Kibler

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Re: SMR Patchbox
« Reply #9 on: April 20, 2021, 12:07:07 AM »
With such little travel, there's no need to use any spring steel.  Low carbon steel will work just fine.

Jim

Offline Scota4570

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Re: SMR Patchbox
« Reply #10 on: April 20, 2021, 12:47:58 AM »
Jim mentioned making it smaller and more tapered.  I made the ends as 30* ellipses.  I could go pointier.  OR I can use a french curve to eliminate the parallel side all together.  Anyone have pictures of this kind. 

I was copying a "Bean" patchbox and using the track patchbox as a guide to make this one. 


Offline Hungry Horse

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Re: SMR Patchbox
« Reply #11 on: April 20, 2021, 05:06:55 PM »
 A modern horseshoe nail should work. The heads are large enough to reshape, and they are quite flexible.

  Hungry Horse

Offline bama

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Re: SMR Patchbox
« Reply #12 on: April 20, 2021, 05:49:10 PM »
I agree with Jim that the patch box for this rifle should be a little shorter. The patch box used on the original rifle that Jim based his kit on is only 5 1/2" total in length. It is also rounded on the ends, most people tend to want to use the more tapered and pointed ends on these patch boxes which I agree look better. I would also move the box a little more toward the butt plate.

I use cut nails to make the catch and old hack saw blades to make the lid spring. The cut nail can be forged out to shape using a propane torch or Mapp gas and the anvil on your vise, I just draw the nail out pretty thin the file the shank to the shape I want and file the head to shape then heat it to a bright yellow orange and quench in transmission fluid. I then polish bright and draw it back to a purple blue color. This should give a nice spring to the catch that is tuff enough to drive into the sock to keep the catch in place. Some people like to put a bend at the bottom of the catch and attach it to the bottom of the box cavity with a screw. I have seen it done both ways on originals so either would be correct.

The lid spring I make out of old hack saw blades. I grind them to shape on my bench grinder, shape it using a Mapp torch for heat and make my bends in the spring while at a bright orange temp. I then heat the spring once I have it shaped and the mounting hole drilled to a bright orange and quench in transmission fluid. I then polish it bright and temper back to the purple blue color.  Good luck with your project.
Jim Parker

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