Dry Fire?

[VtBlackdog]

My rifle has an L&R lock;

is there a right way/wrong way to do dry fire practice?

thanks in advance!

[SCLoyalist]

Keep the hammer all the way down, and you can work the set triggers.   I think there is risk of damage or deformation of the gun's internals, trigger bar or sear,  if you work the triggers with the hammer at half cock.

Very rarely, I'll practice one or two shots letting the hammer go from full cock, but will either put a couple of faucet washers over the nipple to absorb the blow, or, for flint, replace the flint with a wooden wedge.

If you're going to practice dryfiring regularly, and it's a worthwhile endeavor, do so w/ hammer down & uncocked.

SCL

[VtBlackdog]

my gun has a single trigger;

the wooden "flint" sounds like a good idea, thanks.

[beleg2]

Hi,
I use .32" lead bullets stuck in the hammer of my percussion guns (remove the nipple first).
This way, the lead works like a cushion.

Martin

[Acer Saccharum]

This way, the lead works like a cushion.

Martin

Be careful that the lead doesn't squish down lower that the nipple height. The lock internals can be damaged if the hammer travels so far that the tumbler hits the bridle stop.

[Dphariss]

This way, the lead works like a cushion.

Martin

Be careful that the lead doesn't squish down lower that the nipple height. The lock internals can be damaged if the hammer travels so far that the tumbler hits the bridle stop.

And/or lock mortise damage..
Dan

[Collector]

Suggestion: For dry firing a percussion piece, take an automobile tire valve, cut/trim the neck and base off to desired height and slip over the nipple.  It generally fits snugly, provides a cushion, prevents the hammer from over-travel and they're readily available.  A used and/or discarded valve is just as serviceable as a new one and if you have a tire service center near you, a lifetime supply could be had for the mere asking.  You could just leave it on, if you've a mind to, until you're actually ready to shoot it.  Good luck!

[VtBlackdog]

guess I didn't specify that its a flinter, I need to get the feel for the hammer hitting the frizzen.

[SCLoyalist]

Single, non-set trigger and a flint gun,  I'd say your choices are limited to the wooden wedge or putting an old flint in the jaws.     

If you're just getting started in flintlocks, it might not be a bad idea to start with the wooden wedge, and then, when you're satisfied you've become used to the triggers and are keeping the sights on target when the hammer falls, switch to a real flint and prime the pan to teach yourself to ignore the fireworks display and stay focused on the sight picture.  To keep from having to clean the barrel  afterward, shove a toothpick in the vent to keep any residue from migrating into the barrel.

SCL

[beleg2]

Be careful that the lead doesn't squish down lower that the nipple height. The lock internals can be damaged if the hammer travels so far that the tumbler hits the bridle stop.

Thanks I will take care.

Martin

[VtBlackdog]

Single, non-set trigger and a flint gun,  I'd say your choices are limited to the wooden wedge or putting an old flint in the jaws.     

If you're just getting started in flintlocks, it might not be a bad idea to start with the wooden wedge, and then, when you're satisfied you've become used to the triggers and are keeping the sights on target when the hammer falls, switch to a real flint and prime the pan to teach yourself to ignore the fireworks display and stay focused on the sight picture.  To keep from having to clean the barrel  afterward, shove a toothpick in the vent to keep any residue from migrating into the barrel.

SCL

I"ll take your advice, thanks for the help....
....heading out to hunt tree rats now, my first BP hunt!

[G-Man]

I've not tried it personally but recall reading, or someone telling me, they used a piece of one of those hard rubber rectangular pencil erasers - I think the whitish colored "Mars-Staedtler" types - in a flintlock for dry firing practice.  I don't know if they hold up better than wood or not.

Guy