Metal finish

[Hutch]

I know it's been asked, probably a million times, but I'm not sure what it's called so I don't know what to search for.

Now that that's out of the way.  I'm getting close to needed to finish my metal parts on my kibler kit and I'm trying to decide on my metal finish.  I've done the rust brown and I really like the finish and the process(used laurel mountain), but I really like the grayish color I see on so many of y'all's fine rifles.  In fact looking over some of Jim's work that seems to be the primary finish used.  So how do you achieve that look.

[Stoner creek]

Get your barrel filed and sanded to your liking. Degrease with windex with ammonia. Wipe that off while it’s still wet and allow to dry. Apply cold blue or brass black ( I like Brownells 4440) 2-3 coats allow to dry between applications. Reapply the windex and card off while the barrel is wet with the windex. I use 600 grit sandpaper or the maroon color scotch brite pads. Windex it again and dry. It’s quick and easy to do. I’m 100% positive that other members on this board have other methods just as effective and possibly better.
Oil her down when you’re finished. Don’t worry about neutralizing, that’s what the ammonia in the windex is for.
Good luck friend!!

[Stophel]

It's called "patina".  It happens naturally.... so naturally, that before I'm even finished making a gun, the barrel usually looks like this:










Just knock off the heavy rust with steel wool and roll on.

[Clark Badgett]

Want that nice gray patina? Handle, shoot and otherwise use the rifle and it will shortly have that gray look to the metal.

[Hutch]

Are you guys still oiling them like normal or just letting them go til you get what you want? I've noticed mine is getting rust just like that while it's sitting here, I've been knocking it back with some scotch Brite and it's starting to look like what I envision, guess I didn't realize it was that simple lol! Just seems crazy to me to have this much wrapped up in a gun and not do any finish work on those parts lol!

[Daryl]

Most people do "finish" the metal, Hutch.  Some are browned, some are rust blued, some are left bright.

[Hutch]

So if I wanted to speed the "aging" process up, I could apply the laurel mountain like I have before and just knock it down a bit more? I'm still debating if I want the gray aged look or a nice deep brown. 

[Stoner creek]

Experiment. I did that trick a couple of times. Sometimes it works great, others no. Relative humidity affects that chemical quite a bit. The worst thing that could happen is that you would have to sand the metal off and try again. Here’s a piece that I did with cold brown for one day then scrubbed it back.


carnation farms

[Stophel]

I can make anything rust.  All I have to do is handle it.  Just knock off the rusty surface, and keep on handling it.  At some point, you can stop the action by finally oiling or waxing it, and it will pretty well resist rusting (to a point) from then on.

[Not English]

Hutch, You mentioned a Kibler kit. Have you thought about trying Kiblers brass tarnishing solution? It's from Historic Housed parts if I'm not mistaken. It is easy to use and gives a very nice grey to white metal. I apply and then card it when it's dry. The photo is not very bright, but it gives a good idea of the color.

[Hutch]

Hutch, You mentioned a Kibler kit. Have you thought about trying Kiblers brass tarnishing solution? It's from Historic Housed parts if I'm not mistaken. It is easy to use and gives a very nice grey to white metal. I apply and then card it when it's dry. The photo is not very bright, but it gives a good idea of the color.

For some reason I missed that product! I thought I got the laurel mountain from them, didn't realize there was another option.  I need to order a new ramrod anyway, the mailman carried my rifle around in the back of his truck all day and the box was dripping when I received it, I'm assuming that's what warped the rod so bad.  That was something else I was gonna ask actually, can you straighten one?

[smart dog]

Hi Hutch,
Just hold the rod and bend it straight gradually in your hands.  Do a little at a time and you should be able to straighten it nicely. I actually prefer a rod with a slight curve because it creates a little tension in the ramrod hole keeping it in place without binding.

dave

[Hutch]

Hutch, You mentioned a Kibler kit. Have you thought about trying Kiblers brass tarnishing solution? It's from Historic Housed parts if I'm not mistaken. It is easy to use and gives a very nice grey to white metal. I apply and then card it when it's dry. The photo is not very bright, but it gives a good idea of the color.

They don't sell it anymore.  Would this be the stuff you are talking about? https://www.historichouseparts.com/brass-darkening-solution-32-oz-.html#product-details-tab-reviews

Hi Hutch,
Just hold the rod and bend it straight gradually in your hands.  Do a little at a time and you should be able to straighten it nicely. I actually prefer a rod with a slight curve because it creates a little tension in the ramrod hole keeping it in place without binding.

dave

Thank you I will try that! My pistol has a bent one too, must be a common thing. 

[G_T]

And if that doesn't get the rod to your liking, get it hot and be gentle with the bending! Overshoot the bend very slightly, and let it cool. Wood becomes rather plastic if you get it hot enough. If the wood starts browning you've gone too far! I've done that sort of thing a lot with arrow shafts, and have done a couple ramrods, using an electric range. Some woods work better than others of course.

Gerald

[Hutch]

I will try that! Thank you!

[Not English]

Hutch, that's the stuff.  I think they sell smaller quantities as well, or at least they used to. A slight bend in a ramrod can  be a good thing. Prior to retirement I was in charge of a research fleet of small boats. One of the ways we used to bend wood was to steam it. It won't take much time for a ramrod. Get a tube of some variety and close off the ends and add a source of steam. Insert the ramrod for maybe 10 minutes or more ( I'm guessing) and remove it and bend to shape and keep it there until cooled off fully. A 1X4 with a V groove down the middle will work well for a mold to clamp it up until cool.

Dave

[Hutch]

I got some in the mail Friday.  Did a little sanding today but haven't got to metal work to try it out yet.  Looking forward to it though!

That's brilliant on the steam! I have a decent kettle here I could use, gotta come up with something to put it all in.  The 1x4 is a great idea too!  Thank you!!

[Not English]

Hutch, PVC tubing works but will soften. A piece of pipe or EMT tubing will work. Seal the ends with something, wood, tin foil or whatever. It's not real important that it's sealed up air tight. It just needs to keep the interior hot and humid. I've used aluminum duct tape, tin foil folded over a couple of times along with hose clamps, bungee cord and zip ties. Almost anything works? I've also heard of people using bath towels to wrap the wood up and then pouring boiling water over the towels to keep them hot.

Dave