Author Topic: Bad week for ram rod holes (Read 6876 times)

California Kid · « **on:** September 09, 2009, 07:29:40 PM »

I just drilled one and it went off on me as well, but only 3/16" towards the bottom of the stock.
I don't think its enough to warrant a fix. It's going to be a Maryland gun. It is going to make the stock about 3/16" thicker at the breech than I was shooting for. 5/16" hole and 1" barrel at breech.
What say the powers that be.
Don, don't tell me I should have sent it to Dave Rase unless you are willing to pay shipping both ways. HA HA!
The gunsmiths of old would probably be laughing at us for being so fussy.

flehto · « **Reply #1 on:** September 09, 2009, 09:04:07 PM »

Out of curiousity, what kind of drill point do many of you use.? When I formerly did RR holes and grooves {thanks to Miller and Rase}. I used a flat bottom drill and it tracked very accurately being impervious to grain or hardness variations......Fred

LynnC · « **Reply #2 on:** September 09, 2009, 09:53:03 PM »

I use a standard twist drill brazed to a length of rod.

Carefully get you bit started with the rod secured in the rr groove. Never drill more than 1/4" then clear the chips. Never force it.

First one I ever did was the learning experience - been lucky (careful) ever since

California Kid · « **Reply #3 on:** September 09, 2009, 10:30:50 PM »

I used a brad point threaded to a rod in a lathe. Checked the groove its real good. Not sure what happened. Its not that bad, could have been a lot worse. If I try to fix it I might create more of a problemn.

Long John · « **Reply #4 on:** September 09, 2009, 10:57:44 PM »

I have been using the gun-barrel drills sold by TOTW. They are quite stiff. You have to regrind the cutting edge for wood but once that is done I have found them to work well.

JMC

Stophel · « **Reply #5 on:** September 09, 2009, 11:27:11 PM »

I use the brad point drill that I got from Suzie at MBS. It seems to work pretty well for me so far. I did NOT like the single flute "gun drill" that others carry. It doesn't want to center for me.

I've found that if it's going to go off, it's going to go off right at the beginning. That variance multiplies rapidly the further along you go. If you get the first couple of inches right, it will probably be OK.

Dphariss · « **Reply #6 on:** September 10, 2009, 01:02:53 AM »

Quote from: Stophel on September 09, 2009, 11:27:11 PM

I use the brad point drill that I got from Suzie at MBS. It seems to work pretty well for me so far. I did NOT like the single flute "gun drill" that others carry. It doesn't want to center for me.

I've found that if it's going to go off, it's going to go off right at the beginning. That variance multiplies rapidly the further along you go. If you get the first couple of inches right, it will probably be OK.

Use a gouge to cut a starting point. I also use a grooved block that fits the shaft close to each end of the groove. Shaft needs to be withing a couple of thousandths of the hole being drilled. This keeps things aligned.
I have never had one run off an 1/8" from where is was pointed. But if its pointed wrong...
Careful setup and do not flex the shaft up/down/left/right while drilling.

Dan

Tom Currie · « **Reply #7 on:** September 10, 2009, 01:13:42 AM »

Kid, Being 3/16 off low, how thick is the web going to be at the breech ?

California Kid · « **Reply #8 on:** September 10, 2009, 01:32:37 AM »

Tom, I originally planned for a 3/16" web, drill went 3/16" low so the web right at the breech is 3/8".
Drill didn't start to wander till 4 1/2" from the entry.

Tom Currie · « **Reply #9 on:** September 10, 2009, 03:18:02 PM »

Kid, Just my personal opinion but I'd probably fix it otherwise your going to have a tall rifle through the lock and lower forestock area. My couple early rifles were sort of heavy so my recent work has been a quest for slimness.

Long John · « **Reply #10 on:** September 10, 2009, 04:11:43 PM »

I have to agree with Tom. A 3/8 inch web at the breach is going to necessitate a very deep section right at the TG extension. Of course, that TG extension is your friend as it can cover up a really thin section of wood. You might be better off working out a fix now rather than later. Draw out all the remaining components on the side of the blank and determine just how much wood you will have at the bottom of the lower fore arm. Your options will include the wear plate, extending the TG extension or plugging and redrilling the hole.

Best Regards,

JMC

California Kid · « **Reply #11 on:** September 10, 2009, 07:28:31 PM »

The way it is laid out now I have 1/8"of wood under the rr hole right at the breech. Total height at the breech is about 1 13/16" from top of the barrel to bottom of the stock.

Stophel · « **Reply #12 on:** September 10, 2009, 08:17:07 PM »

A good general rule is 1/8" of "web", 3/8" for the rod, and another 1/8" of wood below that. 5/8" plus the barrel....

I think you need to fix the hole.

Blacksmoke · « **Reply #13 on:** September 10, 2009, 09:47:02 PM »

California Kid: Sounds like you might want to plug and try again if you want to keep the fore stock nice and slender. one of the biggest mistakes that contemporary makers make is toooo much wood in the lock panels and in the fore stock. As to the the type of drill for rr holes I make my own out of an ordinary twist drill braised on a piece of drill rod that is the same dia. The proceed the same as Lynn Cook. I have never drilled off center or broken out of fore stock!

The other criteria are the cutting edges of the twist drill. They each have to be as sharp as possible and uniform--this paramount! The same principle is involved in "deep drilling" a rifle bore in steel. Hugh Toenjes

California Kid · « **Reply #14 on:** September 10, 2009, 11:11:35 PM »

If I plug it I'm only going to gain 1/8" before sawing into the plug even with the trigger guard extension.
Starting to look like scrap or a fat breech.

Stophel · « **Reply #15 on:** September 10, 2009, 11:36:24 PM »

An eighth of an inch is a HUGE amount of wood!

If the triggerguard finial cuts into the plug, that's fine. If it is solidly glued with good glue, it will be as solid, or more so, than the wood by itself.

California Kid · « **Reply #16 on:** September 11, 2009, 12:09:50 AM »

I'm looking at sinking the barrel some more. Looks like I can gain almost 3/16" that way. I'm laying it ouy now to see.

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #17 on:** September 11, 2009, 12:45:59 AM »

If the butt stock has not yet been sawed to final shape, you could reinlet the barrel to reduce the web to 1/8", and redesign the buttstock. If you glue in a maple dowel, and proceed as normal, ie: redrill the hole correctly, yes, you'll run into the dowel again in the shaping of the forstock. But a nice inlay will take care of that, so you have not ruined anything yet. This is the sort of thing that adds measurably to your experience and the enjoyment of rifle building. So look at it as a positive thing rather than the converse.

California Kid · « **Reply #18 on:** September 11, 2009, 03:46:59 AM »

I'm inletting the barrel deeper in the stock now. Have enough extra wood on the bottom of the stock, but not enough for 1/8" web, more like 3/16".

California Kid · « **Reply #19 on:** September 13, 2009, 08:02:32 AM »

Thanks for all your replies . I was able to inlet the barrel almost 1/4" deeper at the breech and tapering to nothing at the muzzle. Had to redesign stock slightly but barely discernable, so everything is looking up. I think I figured out what happened. Had the barrel clamped to the blocks for the drill but forgot to put a clamp on the breech of the barrel, so it was able to move.

News:

Author Topic: Bad week for ram rod holes (Read 6876 times)

California Kid

California Kid

California Kid

California Kid

California Kid

California Kid

California Kid

California Kid