Results with Spar Urethane, Mineral Spirits, and Drier

[Bsharp]

After three coats of Tanic Acid and one coat of Aquafortis, I sanded back the stock.

Then two more coats of Tanic and two coats of Aquafortis [with heat] and let dry over night.

I used a geen scrubie with Satin Spar Urethane, Mineral Spirits and a dash of drier to lighten up the maple.

The Spar Urethane is exterior, not sure what Urethane is, but the first rubbing looks very nice.

Looks like a nut brown, no gloss.

[rich pierce]

Pictures?

[Bsharp]

Not positive of the grade
, but it was not costly. maybe a 3

second coat
It says to let dry 4 hours, but with the thinner and drier, I only waited 2 hours.
It has no plastic look.

[Tim Crosby]

 What is that, a test piece?

   Tim C.

[Bsharp]

Yes, lets call this my 'TEST' piece!
It was just a very short pc of wood.

[Algae]

Lovely color,

Al J

[Bsharp]

Google said:

From,

https://www.globosurfer.com/spar-varnish-vs-spar-urethane/

Spar urethane has a higher level of moisture protection and is, therefore, a great choice for paddles or the underside of boats or canoes. You may also need to do less maintenance as it is more durable and thus needs fewer applications compared to spar varnish.

[Daryl]

Spar Varnish with added driers might be good indeed. It is a tough and quite water resistant finish. Spar Varnish is what row-boat oars are generally usually finished with.
I have a set of 10'er's that need re-doing.

[smallpatch]

I’ve been using spar varnish for a couple of years now, in conjunction with Chambers oil.  Nice sheen, very stable. I think Chambers is an oil finish with urethane.

[Bsharp]

smallpatch, do you thin it or use a drier?

[LilysDad]

A common universal finish used by woodworkers is equal parts of spar varnish, linseed oil and mineral spirits. Spar varnish has the advantage of UV protection.

[smallpatch]

I do thin it with mineral spirits, and spray it on. If I’ll going to add a patina, I do it in this order.
Several coats of Chambers oil as a sealer, 2 coats of spray on spar varnish, when that’s dry, I use a black tinted mixture of spar varnish to darken areas, similar to lamp black, then 2 more coats of spar varnish, followed by the last two coats of Chambers oil to even every thing out.
Makes a beautiful, durable finish.

[john bohan]

I used this finish on bows over the years,never had to refinish any. Rub to  high gloss or satin finish.

[Daryl]

If using spar varnish straight out of the can or bottle, make sure you hang the stock in a lint and dust-free area. The long
drying time makes for easy contamination of the surface with 'feathers'.

[Bsharp]

This con-cocktion takes 2 hours to dry.

I buffed it after drying over night and re-coated with a thin wipe down.

Looking good so far.

[Daryl]

When applying any finish, I just dip a finger "onto" the surface of finish in the bottle cap and rub that tiny amount in, extending the area with each 'dip' until the whole stock is done.
Wait minimum of 24 hours and do it again.  This makes for a very nice, hard finish. There are NEVER any thick spots or runs with this method.

[Bsharp]

The satin look came out quite well.

5 coats

[Daryl]

How it beads water will be the final test.  I don't think I ever only put on 5 coats. 7 or 8 maybe, but rubbed back with rottenstone or pumice for a satin finish.
Takes quite a number of such thin coats.  If filling the grain, it takes a lot more, then sanding with 1500grit down to the wood, then 3 thin ones, then polish for
a piano finish. Different styled guns, require different finishes, I feel. I do like this one, by Curtis.

[Bsharp]

After the initial sand back, [after Tannic acid and aquafortis] the grain filled up nicely.

But, this is aged wood, I have had it for 16 years.....not that that matters.

But it did fill quickly from the first coat.

#6 is drying.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

BSharp:  I must say that your finish doesn't appeal to me at all.  But Diversity is the thing these days.  So whatever makes your stick float.

[Bsharp]

BSharp:  I must say that your finish doesn't appeal to me at all.  But Diversity is the thing these days.  So whatever makes your stick float.

A hunting gun should not have a gloss finish!

I do appreciate your opinion, Thank You!

I have chance here to learn, what you would do different, suggestions?

[LilysDad]

'Satin finish' products have ingredients added to dull the finish. They also obscure the wood grain. You are better off to use a clear finish and then dull the finish with something like steel wool.

[Bsharp]

Had not thought of that, Thanks.

[Daryl]

I used to use steel wool for dulling the surface, until I discovered rotten stone and pumice.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I use Circa 1850 Tung Oil Finish.  It gives me a satin finish in about 8 applications, cutting back to the wood after around 4 coats.  A satin finish with a hint of gloss amplifies the wood's grain and figure better than a dead flat finish, which is how I would describe yours.  And tung oil finish is virtually waterproof.  I use ScotchBrite pads to reduce the finish and remove the "orange peel" that occurs after multiple applications, and often burnish with OOOO steel wool between coats.  Each coat must be completely dry and hard prior to attacking with abrasive.  All that comes away is dust.