Results with Spar Urethane, Mineral Spirits, and Drier

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

duca:  this is the stuff I use...https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/1702

[dogcatcher]

Russ Fairfield was a guru about finishes.  The mentioned finish is called a "Oil Varnish Finish".
His info is covered about half way down this link.  https://www.woodcentral.com/russ/finish7.shtml

I have spent a fortune on finishes, the commercial versions from the big companies and from the little guys that create their own versions.  I have also bought components and made my own.  The mineral spirits and BLO are cheaper by the gallon and an opened can lasts almost forever.  The varnishes, spar etc., I bought in the small cans, because once opened it would eventually turn to gel.  I use a watered down version, watered meaning more mineral spirits for the first few coats to get better penetration and faster drying times. 

I have mixed many different brands trying to come up with a fast and easy finish, knowing there is NO such thing as a fast and easy finish.  But I can still dream that I will find it.   It is easy to stop at the big box and buy a can of Watco, either Danish or Teak, but more mentally exhausting to mix it myself.   Because I know that next "miracle concoction" will be the fast and easy finish I have been looking for. 

[Scota4570]

"The varnishes, spar etc., I bought in the small cans, because once opened it would eventually turn to gel."

Spray some "Bloxygen"  aka Argon into the container before you put the lid back on.  Argon from the TIG welder works the same.   Argon is a heavy gas the  blocks oxygen from the surface.  The finish will not gel. 

[duca]

duca:  this is the stuff I use...https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/1702

Thanks Taylor!!

Anthony

[Bsharp]

I found this today by Circa 1850:



4:20 talks about the oil.

[Daryl]

I use a drop on the end of a finger, several spots on the area of stock I am doing, like a butt right or left side, then rub that with my hand until all joined, then move to another spot,
little drops of oil from a dipped finger, rub that in until done, move to another area, repeat until the stock is done. That is one coat. Never a run and an even coat is produced. Wait a
minimum of 24 hours for first coat, usually 48 is better. It must be hard and dry. After than using Tung oil, I only do one coat a day. I use WD40 for "cleaning" my hands of the tung oil
then wash with soap and water.

[stuart cee dub]

Great thread . I concur with Daryl .In my case I use my finger to swirl on a urathane based  spar varnish . Typically I buy the glossy for the deeper light penetration especially if it’s a nice piece of maple and use a wood floor finish called Arm -r -Seal. It's very tough and very water resistant , great if you don't remove your barrel for cleaning .
My pal Randy, a now retired gunsmith, clued me on to this as he didn’t have the time nor were his customers willing to pay for a London finish . Further he would wet sand the finish with more finish on the wet sandpaper once there was enough build up of dried finish . This did three things ,it smoothed the surface , filled the stock and added additional finish . This works great especially on hard -to -fill troublesome black walnut entirely skipping the sanding filler stage .
Really why would you apply finish only to remove it? ( vis a vis steel wool)
On other threads in this forum I’ve read where other stockers use the wet sanding the finish technique as well , so it’s hardly new .
It’s time proven and it works.
The gloss finish can be rubbed out to a dull finish especially if still tacky with your bare hand but the semi can't be polished up to the gloss.It can be finessed resemble a linseed oil finish .