Auto Clear Coat wood finish

[Bsharp]

Several of the bow builders are using Euro Clear and Clear Coat automotive finishes on there bows.

Reason is, more scratch resistant. Non yellowing, and flexible. Satin to gloss finish.

I also found this:

https://www.blacktailbows.com/store/c26/PremiumWoodFinish

Anyone tried any of these?

[Clowdis]

I have used automotive clear coat on modern laminated wood stocks. It is a high gloss, generally thick, tough, deep looking coating that looks good with the laminated wood but I don't think it would look right on a flintlock stock.

[Long Ears]

Why would you ever put something like that to a period rifle??

[smylee grouch]

Why would you ever put something like that to a period rifle??

   My opinion also Long Ears, IMHO it would make them look like the older Remington 700s . Just too much plastic looking for my taste. Each to his own but not for me.

[Gaeckle]

Stick with traditional finishes on traditional guns, using this will make traditional guns look like it's coated in plastic

[Bsharp]

Why would you not try to improve something?

If you can make something better and yet look the same, why wouldn't you!

Just wondering if someone has tried any of the newer scratch resistant finishes in there mix of finish!

[smylee grouch]

It's probably been done but I myself would rather look at a stock with a scratch than one covered with plastic.

[Bsharp]

I understand that, but what if it did not look like plastic?

What if it looked just like the finish that you are using?

[smylee grouch]

Using this finish falls into the same bucket of the use of other non traditional materials and methods to make longrifles. The use of stainless vent liners comes to mind. But I don't find a stainless vent offending my idea of what a long rifle should look like as much as a plastic coated stock would. If you should use such a finish let us know how it works out.

[Marcruger]

"Reason is, more scratch resistant. Non yellowing, and flexible. Satin to gloss finish."

I am afraid I cannot agree with the "flexible" part above.  When car paint needs to be flexible, like on car bumpers, elastomers (I think that is the rubberizer word) are added to make the paint flexible for bumpers and such. 

I also believe that what you'd use for metal might make a lousy finish for wood, as wood shrinks and expands more with temperature.  I believe you might shatter automotive clear by going inside to a warm house with a cold gun. 

With finishes like Jim Chambers' finish out there, why bother with car clear?  Are you going to prep up a spray gun and shoot the clear?  Do you want a super gloss finish like a Remington 700 BDL on a longrifle? 

God Bless,   Marc

 

[Bsharp]

https://www.thedrive.com/reviews/28509/best-automotive-clear-coats

There are many types and brands.

You don't have to use it, but it is nice knowing about options.

[longcruise]

I use a product called VHT (also packaged as Duplicolor) clear wheel paint as a finish on bows.  It's available in gloss and satin finish.   I and some other Bowyers have had trouble with the gloss orange peeling.  It is definitely flexible. 

All that said,  even the satin is not going to make  a pleasing finish on a Longrifle.   It would be a good choice IF the highest priority was protection from the elements but it's on my shelf and I don't intend to put it on a rifle.

The Blacktail stuff is very high quality.   Everything from Blacktail is!  It is packaged for Blacktail but I don't know by who.  It's pricey and you need equipment to apply it.  It looks great on a bow but would not be very appealing on a Longrifle.

[Bsharp]

My thoughts were to integrate, say 20-25 percent into your favorite mix. If it is compatible.

Just trying to make what you have just a little better.

Even 10 or 15%.

[Frozen Run]

Modern production rifles don't spray on plastic finishes because they are better, they do it because it is cheaper. Modern high end rifles still use hand rubbed boiled linseed oil and other traditional finishes similar to what the members here do.

The other thing to take into consideration is how difficult it is to touch up your finish over time. A plastic coated rifle just looks rough, where a traditional finish you can touch up and blend in much more consistently. You may want to look into renaissance wax as a substitute? I've never used it myself but I've heard people swear by it and it sounds like it will achieve many of the things you want?

 

   

[Gaeckle]

Why would you not try to improve something?

If you can make something better and yet look the same, why wouldn't you!

Just wondering if someone has tried any of the newer scratch resistant finishes in there mix of finish!

Can you imagine Eric Kettenburg or Ian Pratt using that stuff? There is a reason why we gravitate to these old guns. If you want to improve your gun with a finish like that go for it, it's yours to do as you please.   

[Craig Wilcox]

There is a certain "joy" in applying a traditional finish.  The hand-rubbed look is also nice to behold.

I am with Frozen in electing to use Renaissance wax, especially the metal parts which might rust from moisture.  It does more "protecting" than "beautifying".

[Scota4570]

My thoughts were to integrate, say 20-25 percent into your favorite mix. If it is compatible.

Just trying to make what you have just a little better.

Even 10 or 15%.

I have used lots of Fullerplast, glasscote, conversion varnish and other modern catalyzed finishes.  More than 100 stock finishes of experience. 

You don't mix them with other stuff.  Well, reducer and catalyst, not not other finishes though.

They are fine on 1970s Weatherbys and bar tops.  With those materials it is possible to build a thick finish in one spray session.  Fine....  They look really stupid on a muzzleloaders.  Just do. 

Another consideration is that they are really toxic.  Unless you have appropriate safety gear you can cause yourself serious harm. 

I understand the good  intentions  of improving something.  That is how I came to how I do stocks today.  I do not use any Fullerplast type finishes at all anymore.  They are too dangerous, unavailable in my state, and do not look good.  They are too thick and can look cheap if not rubbed out right. 

Some factory MLs use this stuff and look worse for it. 

On a carved stock they would ruin the carving.  On modern guns the checkering is done after finishing for this reason. 

[Bob McBride]

It’d probably look real good on a Dale Earnhardt themed Lehigh……

[Bsharp]

It’s probably look real good on a Dale Earnhardt themed Lehigh……

Thanks for the Chuckle!

[bob in the woods]

Isn't permalyn a "modern" type finish ?   Urethane based ?  Supposedly better weather protection.
I tried it but never found that it compared with traditional oil finishes , especially as the guns aged.
I think that would also be an issue with Auto Clear Coat

[Scota4570]

Any liquid finish can be used if you apply it in thin wipe on coats.  A filled grain is needed to look decent.  That can be achieved with thin coats and skuff sanding in between with scotchbrite ( on maple)  On walnut I use sanding dust slurry.  Such a a filled grain finish with minimum film thickness looks most authentic and traditional to me. 

You can not do that with catalyzed spray on finishes they are to thick.  They are cut to  a sprayable viscosity with reducer.  I fill the pores by warming the stock and then spraying in the shade.  The air pushed out while warm creates a void that sucks the finish in to the pores.  Successive coats, on  thicker coats that have the flashed off, flow out over the pore divots.  After several passes it look slick.  It also looks like a half licked hard candy.  It can be wet sanded and rubbed out quickly because the catalyst makes it cure all the way through. They are still really thick.  Sometime you can see the shadow of a dust speck on the wood underneath.