Rust

[ed lundquist]

Three days ago I discovered that the pan, frizzen and cock on a pistol of mine had a coating of rust.The gun went through a thorough cleaning and oiling and I checked all my others for same. It is raining here daily and the humidity is presently at 96% I haven't seen less than 65% and that was one day last week. Seems like it has been weeks now without a break. Today I checked the guns again and found rust again in the same spots plus some new spots on different guns. I oiled the heck out of that lock, can't see how this is happening, I guess this is going to be a regular chore now that the northeast has become the new rain forest. I am using gun oil and Ballistol, never had a problem like this before, glad I caught it early. Best to look them over good. Open to suggestions. Ed

[RedRiverII]

Where are you storing them?  Sounds like you need a safe and dehumidifier for now.  Best of luck Sir.

[3 swans]

Hey Ed. I have the same problem in coastal SC. I bought a new safe and dryer and crystals, still have higher percent than i think i should. try Starett M1 machinists spray. It does not collect dirt like many others. on the barrel and other parts, down the barrel. when you clean it the next time you will see a fine layer of rust from the metal. this oil goes under the rust and lifts it up. it has worked great for me.it was recommended by machinists years ago. they use it on there tools. you will have to search for it. it has gotten more pricey just like everything else. $10-$12 per can maybe more.

[Scota4570]

If you boil the lock in water the rust will be neutralized.  If you use distilled water the rust will turn black.  The rust will be soft and easily removed with steel wool after boiling.  You could disassemble the lock or just shake of the water while still hot and hose it with spray oil. 

[Dennis Glazener]

I use EEZOX good, works for me.

POWERFUL CLEANING SOLVENT
Engineered Dry Lubricant
Strong Rust Preventative • Superb Finish

EEZOX® CLP+ eclipses every oil-based product. No other product cleans this well, PERIOD.  EEZOX® removes what all the other CLP's leave behind!  EEZOX® also provides its unique, penetrating dry lubrication and barrier for corrosion prevention!  Prevents dust accumulation and fingerprinting. The PLUS+ in EEZOX® gives your weapon a superb finish!  JUST EEZOX® IT!

Dennis

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Ed, I'd ditch the Ballistol.  How can an oil that is compatible with and goes into solution with water, be any good as a rust preventative?  My experience with B was a near disaster.  Now I mix it with water for patch lube for target shooting, but that's all I use it for.  There are many great protective oils out there without taking a chance on a loser.  Even plain new motor oil is better.  I use Break Free CLP.

[Scota4570]

and Ballistol stinks too!    You have a good point on the emulsifiers and exotic alcohols they use in it. 

I have been using ATF with a big dollop of lanolin melted in to it for my utility oil.  I have had no rust with it.  Mechanisms run smooth with it.  It also lubes drill bits and milling cutters nicely too.  In the end I don't think it matters until you get down to salad dressing and meat drippings. 

[ed lundquist]

Thanks for the replies, I guess I believe too much of what they want me to believe. So I tore down 4 locks today, cleaned the rust, and washed in mineral spirits doused in ballistol, oiled and greased and I'm gonna have to do it again. I'll give them a good coat of motor oil until I can find one of the above mentioned products. Seven locks to do tomorrow and then the four I did today. I'm gonna be good at this by the time I'm done. Incredible help from you all, I thank you very much. Anybody need half a can of ballistol?

[RedRiverII]

I can hear it now,  Blasphemer!  I enjoy the aroma of EEZOX better than HOPPES #9.  And it works better too.

[heinz]

I live in upstate SC.  I use RiG as a rust preventative.  It works for me but it can be hard to wipe off.  I just clean the frizzen with alcohol and shoot a fowling shot.

[mikeyfirelock]

I second the RIG.  I’ve had no problems with it, and have used it for years on both muzzleloaders and single shots. (but would add a caveat….thorough  cleaning to remove all black powder residues before applying.)

[bluenoser]

A third vote for RIG.  The name is short for Rust Inhibiting Grease.  I have been using it for decades and have had zero problems with rust.  As mikeyfirelock said, clean prior to applying.

[rick/pa]

Another vote for RIG.  I remember seeing a test done years ago with about 10 different oils, etc. Iron plates were covered with the different oils and preservatives, then set outdoors for two weeks.  RIG was the only one that lasted for the whole two week test outdoors in Louisiana in the summer.

[P.W.Berkuta]

I've see the rust test but it was with over 20 different oils that clamed to be "the best" one of the top finishers was "3 in one" oil. I use CLP - EEZOX - 3 in one - and other high quality gun oils that I have on hand (which are MANY) also RIG along with other greases that I have on hand but I mostly use the greases for high friction wear points not as a rust inhibitor. I guess if you check your firearms a few times after storing them you will have a better picture of what works best in YOUR environment - maybe that's why they make so many rust inhibitors and "super duper" oils

[davec2]

One of the best and most comprehensive tests of gun care and other commercial products for rust prevention, etc.  Long but very informative.

http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667

Bottom line, out of 46 products EXTENSIVELY tested , Frog Lube and WD 40 Specialist come out at the very top.  I do not use Frog Lube on the internals of any of my modern guns but do use it to wipe down all my muzzleloaders.  If you read through the above post, it eliminates a lot of the advertising hype and gets down to what works and what doesn't.

[davec2]

PS.....I think Frog Lube is almost all coconut oil...:

[Clark Badgett]

I live in the very humid Ohio River valley and have used nothing but Ballistol for 3 years now on all my guns and work tools. Not a single instance of rust. I even took a blasted piece of steel left it in the 75/25 mix and no rust. It will however react quite poorly with CLP.

Froglube, like Borebutter, does not go anywhere near my guns. Only firearms lubricant I’ve ever thrown away.

[rick/pa]

I read the  http://www.dayattherange.com/?page_id=3667   test of gun oils and noted that the RIG tested was NOT the grease but the RIG #2 which is an oil.  I believe that a grease would give longer lasting protection than an oil would since a grease is less viscous than an oil and could be expected to stay on the vertical surface of the plates better.  Just my opinion and I'm certainly no chemical engineer.  I've been using RIG for over 50 years and have never had any trouble with rust even during our humid summers here in western Pa. 

[davec2]

Clark,

I understand the banning of Frog Lube on modern guns....and hence not having it around.  I think we had a discussion about this once before and I have since heard from some law enforcement friends that they completely shy away from it as well.

I have also used Hornady One Shot with excellent success on both modern and muzzleloading weapons.  Here in the People's Republik of California, humidity is not much of a problem, so a lot of things work well for me.

[T*O*F]

Borebutter, does not go anywhere near my guns.

I had a Davis Jaeger lock on a smoothbore that was susceptible to after-rust.  After a heavy day of shooting, it would be caked with hard fouling.  I cleaned it at home and slathered it with bore butter.  Then I put it in the oven at 250 degrees for about 1/2 an hour.  Eventually, it became seasoned like a cast iron dutch oven.  Water would bead off it and cleaning became much easier and it never rusted after that.

[moleeyes36]

Here on the East Coast of Florida rust is a constant problem we face.  For years I've wiped down the outside of my BP guns, including the locks, with RIG grease and after throughly cleaning the bores, I apply a light film of it in them.  I use Breakfree CLP and sperm oil on the lock internals.  That works well for me.

Don Richards

[ScottNE]

Three days ago I discovered that the pan, frizzen and cock on a pistol of mine had a coating of rust.The gun went through a thorough cleaning and oiling and I checked all my others for same. It is raining here daily and the humidity is presently at 96% I haven't seen less than 65% and that was one day last week. Seems like it has been weeks now without a break. Today I checked the guns again and found rust again in the same spots plus some new spots on different guns. I oiled the heck out of that lock, can't see how this is happening, I guess this is going to be a regular chore now that the northeast has become the new rain forest. I am using gun oil and Ballistol, never had a problem like this before, glad I caught it early. Best to look them over good. Open to suggestions. Ed

Personally, I heavily oil my flintlocks after cleaning, but I wipe out the bore and metal surfaces and reapply oil pretty regularly.

Here in my part of New England it can get pretty humid in the summer, but even when humidity is down I find my flintlocks pick up a film of rust if I leave them too long. Other firearms stored with them are usually fine, no rust film or residue in the same amount of time.

[WadePatton]

Borebutter, does not go anywhere near my guns.

I had a Davis Jaeger lock on a smoothbore that was susceptible to after-rust.  After a heavy day of shooting, it would be caked with hard fouling.  I cleaned it at home and slathered it with bore butter.  Then I put it in the oven at 250 degrees for about 1/2 an hour.  Eventually, it became seasoned like a cast iron dutch oven.  Water would bead off it and cleaning became much easier and it never rusted after that.

Seasoning things outside the combustion chamber and bore makes sense, and works as you have discovered. The best oil I ever used for re-conditioning iron skillets (as I used to trade them-and stripped and refinished many) was OLD very oxidized peanut oil from an old fry pot. It stinks and is goopy, but I've never had skillets re-season faster or slicker.  I might try this on my locks if I develop any rusting issues. Thanks for helping me make the connection-this way i can do the same thing but no BB.

I also like the Lanolin/ATF option listed.  Pure lanolin is great stuff, has been around for thousands of years (as long as sheep!) and I always keep some on hand for the ultimate skin emollient (winter mostly). 

---
Today I went out after the sun emerged (after the storms) and then soaked my shirt straight through with sweat. Got cooled off a little and less wet just before the bottom fell out and I got rain soaked. Feels like I might rust or mold or mildew soon in the jungles of TN.

[kutter]

My patch lube is 50/50 BB and Crisco.
It allows 25 shots (and more) w/o wiping.
But the point here is that it does no harm to any of the metal work on or in the rifle.

I clean after shooting with plain water with a dot of liquid soap in it.
Then dry and oil with what ever I happen to have avail.

Sometimes 3n1. Last time it was a Hoppes oil. CLP I use also.
The F/Lock gets pulled and washed with the same water, brushed and wiped clean and dried.
I wipe it down a bit with a cloth that has some of the 'oil of the day' on it and reassemble to the rifle.
The lock is all high polished steel,,no extra protective  finish to it.
Never a rust problem.
No rust in the bore but I always check and recheck the bore the following days after shooting.
 to be sure.

It's humid and hot here in the NE during summer.  Gotta watch those things.

FWIW,,3n1 oil is just 'Spindle Oil' . A type of mineral oil.
The older 3n1 used to be nothing more than straight weight 20 or 30w oil and said so right on the little bottle. I still have some of that around.

The proprietary gun oil from the mfg'rs like Ithaca, Parker, etc that they used to sell or sometimes provide in the small metal cans with their names on them were nothing but 20 or 30W oil filled from 55g drums into those little cans by usually women or children at the gun factorys.

Nothing wrong with that. Nothing magic needed. Just oil and some attention to the metal after shooting.
Removing the rust forming compounds that the BP fouling leaves behind is the most important part of the rust prevention.
Oil won't do that for you.
Plain water will.

Then the oil or grease prevention coating to the metal surface.

Ballistol is Mineral oil as well with some alchohol in it.

[Clark Badgett]

Most modern type gun oils are mineral oil based. Even many greases are mineral oil based. It's what is added that makes them different.