How to make chisels ???

[RedRiverII]

I have already looked into the topic and searched the site for this topic.  I went through two pages in the metal shaping section and there wasn't any threads.  There are many wonderful posts but none listed for tool making.  If there is a way to go beyond the two pages listed I'd like to now how to do it.  I'm am positive this topic has been covered although I can't find it.

     Many of the folks here have suggested making my own tools.  I've ordered several chisels from Woodcrafter.com and am waiting a wee bit over two months for Pfeil to ship to Woodcrafter.  My order with Jim Kibler came quicker than the backordered chisels.  So the suggestions that I make my own tools is fair and considerate.  How do I make a beveled chisel?  Which materials do I need?  Where do I find the steel?  Where can I go to learn to make a chisel?  How about the handles and which material should I choose,  where can I buy some?

     I am aware I'm asking for a lot of help here.  I do appreciate anyone considering assisting me beforehand.  It may be time consuming and if one of the Masters gets involved that's great.

[FDR]

Google "make a chisel". There are lots of instructions available.
For steel in small quantity go to the knifemakers supply houses. I posted some links in you other thread.

Fred

[P.W.Berkuta]

It sounds like you are having much difficulties with doing simple searches for information using the internet. It MAYBE that tool making would be something best left alone and wait for the Woodcraft Pfeil chisels. My humble opinion

As for "Masters'" I think that there are SOME officially trained and certified Master Gunsmiths here but they must be working to maintain their Master Gunsmith rating so maybe you will get more help asking the general population of very good gun assembler and builders here on the forum

[bluenoser]

I have made a few chisels and other cutting tools over the years, but now try to avoid that whenever possible.  I also cannot recall the last time I purchased a new chisel or gouge.  With a few pricey exceptions, I find the new stuff to be not worth having.  I haunt flea markets, junk shops, yard sales and, occasionally, that unmentionable online auction site for used (and most often abused) chisels, gouges and carving tools manufactured in Sweden, Germany, England or good old North America.  An abused chisel or gouge can usually be either restored to serviceable condition or modified to suit another need and I think the end result tends to be a much better tool than the new off-the-shelf junk we tend to be offered today.

I would advise anyone wanting good chisels to develop their grinding and honing skills and invest their time in the restoration of vintage tools.  Above all else, learn to properly sharpen and maintain what you have.  Leonard Lee of Lee Valley Tools fame wrote an excellent book on the subject entitled "The Complete Guide to Sharpening".  You don't need to spend a fortune on fancy sharpening gear.

[dogcatcher]

I suggest going to the Woodcarving Illustrated forum and doing some research.  Another forum the called the "Carving Path".  Both  have some instructions on making chisels and gouges, the latter is more for miniature carvings, but the same basic principles. 

[Craig Wilcox]

Red, sent you a PM.

[smallpatch]

Red river,
Here’s my take…… buy quality chisels. Pfeil, two cherries, etc. There is much to learn, just in getting, and keeping them sharp, as well as building a long rifle, to keep you busy, well into your life, WITHOUT learning to make your tools.
Don’t get me wrong. If that’s your thing, go for it. But I thought the point was learning to build long rifles.

[T.C.Albert]

Plenty of good vintage tools available.
Check out some of those sales sites too.
It looks like the vintage tool market may be starting to
tank a little too. Stuff like nice old tool chests that used to be
Hundreds have now popping up for a quarter of what they were.
Tim A

[martin9]

With the small amount of work left to put a Kibler kit together I'd just go out and find a few chisels locally. I've got 2 big drawers full of chisels from Pfeil chisels, antique chisels all the way down to no name ebay chisels. I just finished inletting a tang this morning. I used 1 antique chisel and 2 chisels that came from Harbor Freight .

Sharpening is really where it's at. It doesn't cost a fortune to sharpen well either. I use 3 diamond plates and one old round stone with a coarse and smooth side. Then an old knife sheath with stropping compound on it. Come to think of it I rarely use the diamond plates unless I'm resphaing a chisel or fixing an old buggered up chisel. Youtube has some excellent sharpening tutorials.

[rich pierce]

I make a lot of chisels. I will generally not make chisels wider than 1/2” because for the past 15 years I’ve not had a forge. That will change in late fall this year.

I started by using worn parallel-sided files. Anneal, file or grind an inch smooth at the cutting edge, establish the edge angle at 20 degrees, heat to orange, quench in salt water and polish back. Heat with a torch a couple inches back from the edge and watch the colors run. Manage to just get purple color at the edge without having to stop it by quenching. Put a handle on it and sharpen it and you are good to go.

I made dozens and dozens of chisels for Chuck Dixon’s store in the late 70s to mid 80s from water hardening W2 drill rod and O2 oil hardening drill rod. 3/16” round stock is great for smal scrapers and dogleg chisels. Set up fire bricks to make a cubby and propane is hot enough to forge them. I did a tutorial at Dixon’s fair about 3 years ago.

[Bigmon]

The one I use the most I simply ground, then stoned and honed from a small 4" long X 3/8" wide flat file, less than 1/8" thick.
It will get very sharp and I just strop it occasionally.
Simple and cheap.  I also have one I made from a junk screwdriver, maybe 1/8" wide.  And a couple smaller made from eveb smaller screwdrivers.
If it gets and stays sharp, it will do the job.
I have also had some that would not really get sharp.
Have some I bought that are no better, or even not as good as what I made?
Just a suggestion?

[rich pierce]

If you have a specific chisel in mind let me know and I will do a tutorial within a week.

[moleeyes36]

And for removing or smoothing a small amount of wood, especially in tight spots, another member here once suggested using microscope slides for mini-scrapers.  I tried that and found them to work very well in addition to being very inexpensive.  And if you break one or it becomes dull, you just throw it away.

Don Richards

 

[WadePatton]

I've made some, as Rich describes. But mostly now I buy vintage chisels and recondition them. This usually entails all of grinding a fresh bevel and honing out to full sharpness. Sometimes I have to put in a handle.  Little bit simpler than making your own.  Numerous vintage tool dealers around, and also there's some to be picked over in every antique/junk mall in America. Flea markets and estate auctions too. 

[rmnc3r]

Someday, I'll get around to making micro carving chisels and gouges for inletting of intricate inlays

     

     

     

     

[TommyG]

All great advice from the guys above.  I buy new, buy used, make my own, all of the above.  The best advice is the sharpening system you will need.  That varies from person to person, what doesn't change is the fact that whether they are new, used, or hand made, they will need to be SHARP & eventually be re-sharpened.  I would invest in a few diamond stones to start.  For stropping, I use leather charged with compound, but for my flat chisels I use a piece of 1/2" MDF board charged with Flitz polish - works very well.

[bama]

I make many of my small inletting chisels. I look for cheap sets of small chisels on ebay and then grind them to suit my needs. It is hard to beat Pfeil carving chisels, in my opinion they are worth their cost. In saying that if you don't know which carving chisel you need then you stand the chance of buying one you may not use. Sometimes you can find a set on ebay that someone is selling as a group and you can reduce your price per chisel that way. here is a list of Pfeil Swiss Made chisels that I use.

1S/5, 1/5, 1/3, 1/2, 1S/3e, 12/1, 12/2, 8/4, 1 1/2, 3/8,5/5, 5/8, 7/6, 8/7, 9/3, 7/10, 8/18, 8/20, 9/13, 9/15, 9/20, 5F/12

I also have a set of Hinkle brand chisels other odd and end yard sale chisels but use the Pfeil's most of all and my small inletting chisels. It has taken me a number of years to gather up the ones that I use so don't try to get them all at once, get the ones you need to do the job at hand first.

[wormey]

I prefer high carbon steel.  The tines of a pitchfork work very well.  Look in the junk areas of antique stores.  Wormey

[RedRiverII]

Thank you all.

Like I said earlier I am waiting on two necessary Pfeil chisels.  They are the basic tools for my Kibler.  Woodcraft is experiencing a difficult time with their inventory.  Pfeil is having a difficult time with regards to Covid,  so I hear. I have a decent plank standing by for my next build.

If you have a specific chisel in mind let me know and I will do a tutorial within a week.

That is a wonderful offer and one I surely will accept.  I am waiting on,  and need two chisels.  #6mm Pfeil= 1/2" single bevel chisel and a #12 = 1/4" single bevel chisel.  Somehow they had and now I own a 3/8ths chisel.  Thank you Rich!

[RedRiverII]

Someday, I'll get around to making micro carving chisels and gouges for inletting of intricate inlays

     

     

     

     

WOW!  Your effort to assist me is commendable.  First rate buddy,  it's a big help.

[RedRiverII]

And for removing or smoothing a small amount of wood, especially in tight spots, another member here once suggested using microscope slides for mini-scrapers.  I tried that and found them to work very well in addition to being very inexpensive.  And if you break one or it becomes dull, you just throw it away.

Don Richards

 

  Hey Don,  do you mean the glass microscope slides?  Hey when are we getting together?  Sorry but I misplaced your #.  Thank you for the suggestion.

[RedRiverII]

It sounds like you are having much difficulties with doing simple searches for information using the internet. It MAYBE that tool making would be something best left alone and wait for the Woodcraft Pfeil chisels. My humble opinion

As for "Masters'" I think that there are SOME officially trained and certified Master Gunsmiths here but they must be working to maintain their Master Gunsmith rating so maybe you will get more help asking the general population of very good gun assembler and builders here on the forum

I did ask for everyone's help PW.  If a Master type guy shows up and they have already then that's gravy.  Thanks for your advice it helps.

I've spent at least four hours a day researching and reading books about building a BP flintlock.  I've no trouble at all using any tools at my disposal to educate myself.  I find there is no better source for information than Americanlongrifles.com  I figure I've researched Longrifles for eight hundred hours so far.  I'd be closing in on a Associate degree and completing it in another forty hours.  As far as simple questions go I counter with "... An oak from an acorn doth grow."  Best wishes to you.

[J Henry]

   Check out LIBERTY TOOLS in LIBERTY MAINE lots of old tools and the owner is a Tool man.

[44-henry]

Here is one I made awhile back from a masonry nail and some scrap cherry. Probably about 20 minutes work with the forge and grinder to finish the metalwork and heat treatment. I make tools when needed, not much to it.

[BJH]

Since I’m the nerd who opened my big mouth about making chisels.... here’s my method. As a ex RC model aircraft builder I’ve allways had heavy music wire around. This would be 1070 or 1080 carbon steel. For a 1/4 inch wide chisel I start with 5/32 music wire. Useing a propane torch heat the end of the rod bright red orange. Quickly flatten the end with the hammer and a vise jaw or back as a anvil. Think screw driver blade thickness. Allow to cool. Do a few of these while your in the business. Now rough grind on a belt sander etc to shape. In a safe location set up for heat treatment. You need a container of olive oil or canola oil. I like vegetable oils as I work often indoors. Heat your chisel blanks to bright cherry red. Heat as much of the shank as you can. Quench in the oil. As soon as possible shine up up your blank and temper starting from the handle end. Bring the handle end up to blue and allow the color progression to run up toward the cutting end stop the color change as soon as the blade end starts to turn yellow. Drop into oil to stop the progression. Now finish grind and fit it to the handle of your choice. File handles are good for starters. Now sharpen your tool. Not really so hard as it sounds. BJH

Look up at the temper color progression on the previous post. The nice thing about music wire is the cost, you don’t have to fret about the learning curve costs. O-1 or W-1 tool steels are the other easy choices. Same heat treatment instructions