Web Thickness Heavy at Breach

[TommyG]

So, I realize that ideally we would all like to have a web thickness at the breach that is less than 3/16 and depending on the build, closer to 1/16 to promote good architecture at both the lock panels and lower forearm.  But what happens when your drill does what drills sometimes do, and you end up with a web that is greater than 3/16 or closer to 1/4?  (yes, I am currently dealing with this).

I am thinking of lowering the entire barrel a bit. Possibly I could cheat .030 or so but any more would compromise the 3/16 web in upper forearm used for lugs and pipes.  I am hesitant to just lower the back half of the barrel as in my thinking, this would have the finish product with a barrel tipped up and shooting high, or would this not be a concern as the wrist/butt would be shaped to the centerline axis?  Or do I just shape this guy up and not be concerned?  I will leave only 1/8 below the RR hole on the bottom.  Any other recommendations?

FYI, this will be an early gun, 42” oct-round 62 cal.

[Scota4570]

You are on the right track.  Inlet the barrel deeper to get the web thickness right.  Then determine the comb profile.  This si the most cautious way to get perfection. 

How close is the ramrod channel from coming out the bottom? 

IF you have the comb already established you may be able to inlet the rear portion of the barrel as needed and flex the long part of the forend into place?    IF you wet the forearm with hot water, installed a ramrod, it with surgical  tubing, let dry for several days, you and make a forend fit the metal perfectly. 

[FALout]

You could drop the breech end down more, what will change would be the drop on the butt of the stock or the lesser amount of drop you would get.  But are you only looking at maybe 1/16 to 1/8” at the most?  If dropping the whole barrel downward is gonna compromise space for lugs toward the front then don’t do that, lower the breech end only.  I go back to the drop of the buttplate, if your building from a blank (which I’m assuming) and left extra material there at this point, it should not be an issue.  Hopefully some guys with a lot more experience will chime in.
Bob

[rich pierce]

Raw blank or precarve or profiled blank? Very difficult to make adjustments on a profiled blank or precarved stock. There’s always the option of a wearplate. Cut or rout the ramrod “hole” closer to the barrel from the bottom. Fit a splice in the trough and glue in place. Then install a wear plate. It depends on whether the architecture is critical.

[TommyG]

You are on the right track.  Inlet the barrel deeper to get the web thickness right.  Then determine the comb profile.  This si the most cautious way to get perfection.

How close is the ramrod channel from coming out the bottom?

IF you have the comb already established you may be able to inlet the rear portion of the barrel as needed and flex the long part of the forend into place?    IF you wet the forearm with hot water, installed a ramrod, it with surgical  tubing, let dry for several days, you and make a forend fit the metal perfectly.

Thanks for the advice.  Yes, it is a blank and I do have ample wood on both the bottom of the forearm and the butt end to drop the rear end of the barrel some and level the barrel out moving forward.  My major concern (besides the RR coming out the bottom, which I will try to avoid) is the stock architecture around the lock panels and the lower forearm.  I do not want it too thick in the lock panels and want the lower forearm rounded and not slab sided.

[Ric Carter]

Make a scraper, and move the channel up.