Assembling early lock from assorted components- polling on choices

[rich pierce]

I’m assembling some locks and this one was never a set of castings. This lockplate is 7 and 1/8” long. I’d use this lock for an early composite smoothbore. A creative exercise and I’ve not got the details worked out other than this lockplate and a long 12 or 16 gauge barrel. But I need to finish up some lock assemblies so I can give back the nice drilling jig I’m borrowing.

Ok after the long intro here are the choices of flint cocks. The reinforced one is probably correct.



This one has a longer throw but think it could work functionally. Seems right period but maybe not early English style. Given this will be a composite gun I have some creative leeway.




This one is probably 100 years later in styling than the lockplate so the gun would have to be later in styling or “used” for a while.




So, which would most appeal to you for a creative build of a gun that was stocked here around 1700-1730 from assorted parts?

[Hungry Horse]

 I like the second one. The first was common after the period you mentioned. The last one doesn’t look right to my eye. JMO.

  Hungry Horse

[smart dog]

Hi Rich,
The plate is a Queen Anne period doglock musket lock probably from TRS series 560.  I am sure they have the right cock for it.  The second flint cock is from an early Dutch musket and I think it is too tall.  It has a better shape for the lock but is definitely not the right shape for the lock.  The top and bottom flint cocks are out of period for the lock.  I am not sure if you could modify them but the top one might work if you really thinned and flattened it.

dave

[Eric Kettenburg]

I'd use the second one and make it look like a secondary replaced cock; it would be perfect.  Remove the reverse 'tit' at the throat and slightly reshape the body return where it hits the neck.  Maybe leave it a bit more roughly filed than the remainder of the lock.  I like that it's very tall, looks better than a short or squat cock.  You can bend the lower jaw down toward the pan a bit more and adjust the stop if necessary.  Also drill and tap a hole for the missing dog catch where it should be, then either leave it empty or plug it (but not too well, so it can still be seen).

[rich pierce]

Thanks guys. Pretty sold on the middle one. Good suggestions all around. I like the “secondary” story line. Your advice on the screw hole for the dog catch is spot on, Eric. I was considering getting more material welded on for the cock to handle a dog catch, but I like this better.

Functionally, with all this mass and long throw will make this a fairly slow lock, but that’s how they were!

[ScottNE]

I like the 2nd one, right period and the fact that it doesn’t quite match size-wise makes it stand out as a replacement on parts guns. I believe the first one, the reinforced one, is a later style?

[rich pierce]

I like the 2nd one, right period and the fact that it doesn’t quite match size-wise makes it stand out as a replacement on parts guns. I believe the first one, the reinforced one, is a later style?

I should have included this from the TRS catalogue. The upside of the cock I showed with the reinforced neck is that it has that feature like the original. But it lacks a full belly and a long neck. I’m not sure how late my reinforced one is as it has the simple upright post for the top jaw, of the type where the top jaw is slotted for it.

[Robert Wolfe]

I like Eric's approach. Here is what the the lock looks like with it's "normal" cock.

[Bob Roller]

The top lock looks  like it might  not work because the cock is too far back and not tall enough.
Bob Roller

[rich pierce]

I like Eric's approach. Here is what the the lock looks like with it's "normal" cock.

That is a cool build. Have you shared it with us?

[Robert Wolfe]

Rich, I posted that one back in March of last year; https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=58700.msg587128#msg587128 .

I used a 28 gauge barrel that was small in the breech with that big lock (the mainspring it comes with it is huge) and it caused me a lot of problems. You are wise to go with a larger barrel with a big breech.  If you want me to measure the throw of the cock let me know.

[Clint]

You have good advice from some good builders. My vote is for the second picture, but any of them would work, because the others are of a later time. Many surviving ledgers note new parts for broken locks and if the peice you are building had a couple of other "repairs" the story could include battle damage at the skirmish of ...

[rich pierce]

Rich, I posted that one back in March of last year; https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=58700.msg587128#msg587128 .

I used a 28 gauge barrel that was small in the breech with that big lock (the mainspring it comes with it is huge) and it caused me a lot of problems. You are wise to go with a larger barrel with a big breech.  If you want me to measure the throw of the cock let me know.

Ahh yes! Was looking at the original in “Of Sorts” for inspiration. Very cool build you did there. Please do share the throw of the cock. Thanks!

[Robert Wolfe]

The cock is 1 13/16 inches from the center of the screw to the tip of the lower jaw.

[deepcreekdale]

I built one similar to Roberts. It is a great lock by the way. I used a Rice, 10 gauge smoothbore barrel. Since it was fairly large at the breech, it fit well

[rich pierce]

Deepcreekdale, that looks good. All I had for this lock was the plate, not a set of castings. No guts, no frizzen, cock or springs or sear that go with it. I have gathered frizzens, springs, cocks and so on over the years so am building this lock from spare parts. I am using a Track of the Wolf Brown Bess tumbler and will probably break down and buy a matching sear and sear spring. If anybody needs to buy a good tumbler for a large lock plate they should look at that Track Brown Bess tumbler. Hardened and tempered and ready to go. Nicely finished.