need help centering a butt plate screw?

[Bigmon]

Am fitting a buttplate and it already has drilled and countersunk holes for the screws.  I have missed them both once all ready so far.  Thought I had a good method but failed.
Before I keep trying to re-invent the wheel so to speak.  Can anyone offer a method other than just eye balling it?
I would like to think there is some kind of centering tool, but I havn't seen anything??
Thanks

[drflint]

Vic bit does it

[drflint]

Sorry.  Vix bit

[TommyG]

Second the Vix bit.  Just make sure you are square to the existing holes.  I like using those small circular bullseye bubble levels for this.

[duca]

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-7-64-in-x-6-in-High-Speed-Steel-Twist-Drill-Bit/50041542
Big box stores have them

Anthony

[Not English]

Just to throw a different method into the mix. I learned to drill the hole on top of the comb just slightly forward of center of the hole in the butt plate. The idea is to make sure the butt remains tightly against the inletting on the comb.The other hole down towards the heel was drilled on center. I'm assuming you have plugged the problematic holes already. If not, drill them out oversize to match a dowel diameter and epoxy it in place and start over when set.

[Dan Fruth]

The method I use:

  With the butt plate fully inlet, hold the plate firmly in place, and with a pencil mark the screw location. Just sharpen the pencil point and trace the hole location on the comb. Then use a sharp pointed scribe and stab the screw location into the wood so the screw pulls the plate tightly into the mortice...Just forward of the center of the hole. Once screwed in place, mark the lower screw on center, drill, and screw in place. Drill dia should be the diameter of the screw at the bottom of the flutes, and wax the screw so it goes in smoothly and cuts it's thread in the wood.

[Bigmon]

Thanks to you all, that's what I really appreciate about this site.
I have the old holes plugged and am giving it another try.  But when I get to the big town, I am getting a Vix Bit.  My only question with those is that if they do not match the existing holes in the butt plate, I am in the same problem?  Unless I am missing something??
Thanks again to all

[flinchrocket]

I use Dans method. Simple and easy to do. Don’t need a bunch of fancy stuff.

[kutter]

I clamp the butt plate in place with one of the extra long bar clamps (36"?). The stock held in the vise at an angle and the front jaw of the clamp is around the vise itself.

I just a standard drill bit that will just fit through the hole in the screw hole in the plate for the pilot drill.
I do the lower hole first.
Use that pilot drill to drill down about 1/4" or so and stop.
I eyeball from the side and back to keep the drill on the correct angle to the plate.

The fit of the drill bit in the hole of the plate gives me a centered screw pilot starter hole.
The pointed tip of that drill leaves a nice follow-up center down in that short hole to then follow up with the correct drill for the threads on the butt plate screw being used.

Once in stalled, I then do the top screw.
This one I want to 'draw' the tang of the plate slightly forward.
To do this , the pilot hole n the wood needs to be moved slightly forward as well.
'Move the screw hole in the direction you want the metal to move/ be pulled'

The plate is still tightly clamped onto the stock, so there isn't much 'draw' that can (or should) be allowed.
The same basic drill that closely fits the screw hole in the top tang is used.
This time I only lightly spot the drill onto the wood surface of the tang.
Don't drill a true pilot starter hole. You only want the clear imprint of the point of the drill bit,,That's the center of the screw hole in the butt plate.

Now take the clamp off and remove the lower screw and the butt plate .

Then carefully take a look at that very shallow top screw center mark the drill made. The point/center mark you need to move forward just a bit and remark it for the center. No more than a 1/64 of an inch in this case is fine.
Punch mark it and drill that mark with a small dia drill. Then enlarge the hole carefully to the size needed for the attachment screw threads.

Place the plate back one, wax up the threads of the screws and attach the plate.

FWIW, I don't use wood screws for attaching the butt plate or other places where wood screws are normally used.
I make my own screws and use a #8 -32 size generally for most application, Sometimes 10-24.
Using a countersunk fillister type head.
The machine screw threads are very well adapted to holding in hardwood.

[sdilts]

I take the drill that I used to drill the clearance hole, stick it back in and twist it with my fingers to mark the center of the hole. Then I center punch the mark. I have a squared hardwood block with a series of holes drilled in it for various size bits. Lay the block on the stock with the appropriate size bit for the screw and drill the hole. The hole comes out good and straight. I use this for all the screws on the gun. Easy peesy.

[Dan Fruth]

I can see why the top screw is a challenge to align. I don't cut the comb down to the bottom of the comb extension, but instead inlet the comb down over the wood. This leaves the wood directly under the brass and also aligns the butt plate. Much easier to do the rest of the job this way...Hope this makes sense.

[bluenoser]

Self centering screw hole punch.
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/stanley-self-centering-screw-hole-punch/1000102837
After marking the center of the hole for the upper screw, move it slightly forward before drilling the pilot hole.

[flehto]

After the Bplate is fully inletted and taped securely {duct tape is used}  to the stock  w/ both holes drilled in the Bplate,  I hold a sharpened lead pencil vertically in the butt plate  return  hole and trace a circle onto the stock. I then centerpunch the circle  for  the Bplate return, but locate it   slightly forward { 1/32"} so the screw pushes the return  up against the wood. The hole is drilled w/ the Bplate removed. Then the Bplate is screwed down w/ the return screw and  the pencil draws a circle for the lower hole which  is center punched on center and drilled w/ the Bplate  attached to the stock. The lower screw is installed and the job is finished. Both holes first use a small drill that's slightly  larger than the web of the final drill to pick up the center punch. The depth of this hole should be greater than the drill  point angle. .......Fred

[Bigmon]

Howdy friends,  I finally got both butt plate and the screws in to my satisfaction.  My Dad always told me I was toooo particular, but in cases like gun work, I find that if I don't try my best to be perfect then usually the work turns out to be unacceptable.  At least for me.  It is never perfect, but I usually get it close if I really try for perfect.
Anyway, thanks for all the help and suggestions.  I ended up just doing it the simpler way , but using a bullseye buble J&B welded to my drill.  Which is another story!
Thanks all and keep safe.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

To mark the positions of the holes, I insert a clearence drill into the hole in the butt plate, holding the plate firmly in place, and with a light hammer, tap the drill to impart a mark on the wood.  Then I rotate the drill bit a quarter turn and tap again.  What it makes is a + sign on the wood from the chisel end of the drill bit, exactly in the centre of the hole in the plate.  With a sharp prick punch, I move the mark forward about 1/32" so that the pilot drill bit will make a hole that will draw the plate tightly against the wood.  For a pilot drill bit, I use a 3/32 bit, and I drill down the depth of the screw.  I eye-ball this operation.  Once the pilot drill hole is made, I use a drill bit that will provide good purchase of the screw's threads.  I use wood screws, preferring #10's for butt plates.

[Scota4570]

https://www.harborfreight.com/28-piece-transfer-punch-set-3577.html