Applying browning solution

[Terry Reynolds]

Quick question, what would be the best way to apply browning solution to the barrel and lock? I keep getting runs and strikes and have to sand back and redo. Is there a magic pad that will evenly distribute the stuff? Thanks

[flinchrocket]

I normally just use a cleaning patch. Wear a rubber gloves ( depending on what brand you use) also keeps grease from your hands off the metal. Just dampen the cloth with browning solution, not dripping all over the place. After you start to get some rust it will go on more even. The hot muggy weather we are having should make your browning work faster.

[Frank]

I fold up a piece of cloth from one of my old flannel shirts. I fold it into a pad about 3 inches square. Dampen the pad and apply to barrel flats in one long swipe the entire length of the barrel.

I have always used Laurel Mountain Forge browning and never a problem

[Robert Wolfe]

I roll up part of a cotton ball on the end of a wooden skewer to make an oversized Q-Tip.

[FALout]

Don’t keep wiping over and over, just wipe it so the metal is wet and move to different area.  I usually won’t mess with the browning the next day, I’ll just wipe with solution again, the second day it should look better streak wise.  Your prep is important, I take my barrels outside and just use brake cleaner and then acetone then don’t touch without gloves on.  You may still get streaks but after 3 coats they should be gone.

[Sidelock]

Application of the solution in one long stroke along each flat of the barrel or part with the material others have already described is key.  The solution should go on looking almost like a thin coat of oil.  If you see areas where the solution beads up, that is an indication that contaminates are still present on the metal and additional de-greasing is necessary.  After each rusting session, card off the surfaces of the parts - I use a soft wire wheel on a wood lathe at slow speed, there are other methods.  Re-apply solution and repeat the process.  Typically I do at least 5 coats - sometimes as many as 7 to get the appearance I want.  Browning or rust blueing barrels and parts in this fashion usually take two days to complete. 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I make my barrel applicators out of flannel sheet material.  I tear off a strip of sheet about two inches wide and cut it about 20" long.  I make a roll out of the strip so that it ends up being about 1/2" in diameter and two inches in length.  Having polished and degreased the barrel with Comet household cleaner and a piece of ScotchBrite, I suspend the barrel on its pegs on two wooden V blocks, and I never touch the barrel with fingers again til it is browned.
I pour a shot glass full of browning solution, dip the end of the roll into the liquid, squeeze out any that will flow, and apply the roll to the barrel flat, moving evenly in one smooth slow stroke, end to end.  Never go back to get places you think you have missed, especially with LMF Browning Reagent...you'll catch those spots on subsequent applications.  For sight slots, I use a Q tip.  For lock plates, butt plates, trigger plates and the like, I use two cotton balls (purchased at local drug store)
again, dipping and squeezing out excess fluid.
I have several methods of carding, ie:  0000 steel wool, Brownell's soft wire wheel on slow speed, often just a roll of canvas, using the end of the roll to scrub away loose rust.

[jsb30]

I use gauze pads from first aid supplies at pharmacy.

[rick/pa]

Right now in western Pa. conditions are ideal for browning. I put the first coat on the barrel this morning then had the bright idea to set the barrel out on the patio. Within 3 minutes of stepping outside the barrel was turning a blue grey color.  Within 10 minutes I could see brown forming. Might be a little too fast. 😁

[flinchrocket]

Just card it more often.

[john bohan]

I just did a barrel in the high humidity of western Pa. I used TOW's browning and brake drum cleaner. No problems, Tracks gave the best color of all the guns I browned.

[Birddog6]

For me, nitrile gloves are a must.  If you have a wife I guarantee she uses hand lotion & other stuff. Get it on their hands & it is on everything in the house or shop, including Door Knobs, refrigerator door handles, faucets, etc.. 

One time I was browning a barrel, kept getting places not browning. Stumped me for 2 days. Turns out that even tho I had on nitrile gloves, i grab a door knob wife has turned, contaminated the gloves every time.  So now if i am browning something, she is not allowed to the door or in that room til I am done. 

[Maroilles]

Give it to me straight fellas. Does this need to be redone? This is 3 hours into the first coat. What is a good way to apply this because I was told and the instructions say just put on an even coat and don't rub it in. Thats what I did but this doesn't look right. Should I just keep going and apply another coat? Will it even itself out?

[rich pierce]

Keep going.

[mikeyfirelock]

I have gotten the best results by applying the browning solution fairly  “sparingly”.    Get the metal prepped…….clean, smooth ( I generally use something like 600 paper on a small wood block to prep).   Wet your cloth or what ever, but not too wet…..just fairly damp…..not wet.. All you want is a thin film on the surface.     I then use a damp box and reapply in a day or so.  I card with some sort of DRY tight weave cloth, but have used almost everything at one time or another.   Folded Paper towel will do a pretty good job also.  Reapply after each carding……same thin film…..just repeat this till you get a nice brown.

[Maroilles]

Heres another picture by the way. Also when you guys say card it what exactly do you mean if you don't mind me asking?

[mikeyfirelock]

Addendum to above.    I also use a damp box I built according to John Bivins instructions
in an article he wrote for RIFLE magazine.  ( there are several of Bivin’s  RIFLE articles in the book “ Gunsmithing Tips and Projects”  available from Wolfe Publishing.   Well worth the price for this book.)

[oldtravler61]

  Here's my method and for me it works.  I hang barrel vertically
  1 :  clean barrel.   2 :   heat barrel ( propane torch ) till a mist of water will sizzle.   3 :  Apply Browning solution while barrel is still hot. ( I use those wire handle craft applicators. ).   Spray barrel down with W-D 40 .
Wipe excess oil off  with clean rag. 
  Might not be the best way.  But I've got no complaints  The heat seems to draw the solution into the metal. I've never had a streaking issue or blotchy finish.  Simple and I've been doing it this way for 30 plus years.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Heres another picture by the way. Also when you guys say card it what exactly do you mean if you don't mind me asking?

It looks to me that you didn't get your barrel completely degreased.  First, the barrel needs to be drawfiled, removing every bit of the original factory finish.  then it needs to be polished, if a smoother brown is what you are shooting for.  I go to at least 220 grit when I want a matte finish and to 1200 grit if I am after a polished look.  Then the barrel needs to be thoroughly degreased.  I use Comet household cleanser on a square of green Scotchbrite, rise with clean warm water.  Dry with paper towels, and never touch the barrel with your bare fingers at this stage.  Handle with clean cotton gloves or paper towels.
Apply solution as described above with a just damp pad of cotton cloth or cotton swabs (facial wipes).  Important, squeeze out most of the solution so pad is just damp.  Apply with a smooth even full length stroke to each flat.  Your first applciation will go blue grew and may not look very even, but it will darken and even out with successive applications.
Carding means scrubbing off the dusty rust scale that forms on the barrel.  You want the brown IN the steel rather than ON it.  You cannot hurt the brown by carding.