Author Topic: Making lock plates  (Read 3088 times)

Offline Bob Roller

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Re: Making lock plates
« Reply #25 on: October 28, 2021, 12:59:25 AM »
I have not made or examined an English pistol.   The lock plate will be like the ones shown in this thread?  Only the boss at the rear where the lock bolt goes.  The mainspring is made longer.  Drip bars?  Never made one.  Is it rectangular in cross section or does it also fit the diagonal flat?  It get soldered to the barrel, right?   



I recently made a caplock that was styled after the lock on the Archie Peterson Hawken shown on page 24 of Woodfill's new Hawken book. I called it a bonehead lock and the mechanism was much like a military lock with a single position tumbler and no detail work.This was second one of these I made and the first one was 50+ years ago for Tom Dawson.This lock can be scaled down for a pistol or modified to the Englsh shape.
Bob Roller
« Last Edit: October 28, 2021, 01:05:36 AM by Bob Roller »

Offline Daryl

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Re: Making lock plates
« Reply #26 on: October 28, 2021, 02:41:34 AM »
Drip bars?  Never made one. 


Access to TOTW catologue should show drip bars. Track sells them.
Daryl

"a gun without hammers is like a spaniel without ears" King George V

Offline Scota4570

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Re: Making lock plates
« Reply #27 on: October 28, 2021, 04:31:24 AM »
Not the cross section........

Scot

Offline Scota4570

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Re: Making lock plates
« Reply #28 on: November 01, 2021, 11:57:17 PM »
I have a working lock.  Some salvage parts some new.  I messed up the mainspring, but it works anyway.  Next time I will make one more like Bob's

Should I put some valve grinding compound on the link bearing surfaces and make them more perfectly to the mainspring and tumbler?  I used spring stock for the link and heat treated it same as the mainspring.  Is the right? 






Offline Curtis

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Re: Making lock plates
« Reply #29 on: November 06, 2021, 08:13:29 AM »
When making the lock plates for the 1772 pistol locks, I used TOF suggested method of drilling the outline and sawing out.
Works great. I solderd on the front part of the bolster with high temp silver solder. I regret this now, because it makes it impossible to caseharden the lock plate. I've finished 4 locks and started on the fifth. When all six are done, I'll caseharden the frizzens and guts.

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=49769.msg493990#msg493990
https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=50191.msg497569#msg497569

Making the same parts over and over again, gets a bit tedious. I needed a break. I've started on four left handed, four pin percussion locks, patterns from Bob Roller.

I milled out the bolster, no warping of the plates. Going to file out left handed versions of the Alex Henry hammer.
I'm working on the patterns for the hammer. Snail-mailed Curtis  some patterns  I drew, that he kindly agreed to check against his alex henry lock.

Best regards
Rolf

The lock plates are looking great, Rolf!

Curtis
Curtis Allinson

NMLRA Gunsmithing Seminar and Workshop at WKU~ http://www.nmlragunsmithingseminar.org/
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Sometimes, late at night when I am alone in the inner sanctum of my workshop and no one else can see, I sand things using only my fingers for backing

Offline Bob Roller

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Re: Making lock plates
« Reply #30 on: November 06, 2021, 02:34:20 PM »
Here is another thing to do.When locating the sear spring,make a screw with the head the same diameter as the upper leg of the 4 pin bridle and install it in that hole.It will act as a guide and prevent an "Oh $#@*" situation.
I still haven't decided to make any more locks or not.I did have a BIG advantage with these fancy English locks by being able to borrow fine old ones from the late Lynton McKenzie.I do hope someone will offer an upgraded caplock for those who want one.
Bob Roller

Offline Bob Roller

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Re: Making lock plates
« Reply #31 on: November 06, 2021, 10:26:40 PM »
I have a working lock.  Some salvage parts some new.  I messed up the mainspring, but it works anyway.  Next time I will make one more like Bob's

Should I put some valve grinding compound on the link bearing surfaces and make them more perfectly to the mainspring and tumbler?  I used spring stock for the link and heat treated it same as the mainspring.  Is the right? 






Scot,
Take a close look at the angle of the link on my little lock and try to copy it the next time.
This style makes for maximum pressure on the nipple like the English golden oldies and when
you start to cock it there will be a bit of resistance that will go away as the rear rotation of the
goes to fully cocked. I had another one of these small ones started and may finish it and put it
up for sale...maybe.
Bob Roller