Fancy hooked breech plug advice

[Scota4570]

While I wait for Long rifle parts I though I'd challenge myself. 

I want to approximate the old pistol.  The photos show where I am now and where I want to go.  Anyone done this?  Any advice on exactly how  to shape the breech.  Milling machine, files, dremil???   

Order of operations??  Should I make the lock first?  Then inlet the barrel and lock.  Then shape the  artistic parts of the breech plug? 

Thanks in advance. 

[Bob Roller]

While I wait for Long rifle parts I though I'd challenge myself. 

I want to approximate the old pistol.  The photos show where I am now and where I want to go.  Anyone done this?  Any advice on exactly how  to shape the breech.  Milling machine, files, dremil???   

Order of operations??  Should I make the lock first?  Then inlet the barrel and lock.  Then shape the  artistic parts of the breech plug? 

Thanks in advance. 

 I made a 13/16 40 caliber boys rifle right after I finished a flintlock rifle.This was 2008.
The lock was made first and was very similar to the one shown in your picture.The bolster
was a scaled down English style target rifle and the lock has a common mechanism like
my regular Hawken locks.As I recall,I think the side flat of the barrel intersected the center
line of the nipple.
Bob Roller

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I'd make the lock first.  Note, in your bottom picture, the centre line of the nipple is adjacent to the edge of the side flat of the barrel.  A milling machine would be useful there to cut the nipple seat at the correct angle to the bore.  Use a protractor to determine that angle and an end mill that is at least 3/8" - 1/2".  A dremel tool with small grinding stones can be used to finish the nipple seat area on the plug, and files and gravers to finish the snail and the standing breech.
On Hawken castings, I always finish the plug and fence before I do any inletting.  Make and attach the drip rail too, before any woodwork begins.
You have a nice lock up and joint for the plug and standing breech.
Your material is far greater than needed ... sticks out too far past the barrel...note the picture of the original from the top.

[Scota4570]

The barrel is 13/16 tapered to under 3/4".  It is a 32 cal barrel.  Yes, the bolster is too wide.  I do not want the grip to be too skinny or for the lock moldings to disappear.    I plan the make the bolster width to accommodate a normal feeling grip.  I will trim off the unnecessary part once that is established.

As I recall,I think the side flat of the barrel intersected the center
line of the nipple.  I think that will be close on this one.

A milling machine would be useful there to cut the nipple seat at the correct angle to the bore.  Yes, I do all critical drilling and tapping operations on the mill. 

[Scota4570]

I see an issue I need to address.  I planned to use the guts of the bedford plate lock.  With this type of bolster/drip bar I can not use the mainspring.  I will need to find or make a mainspring like the shotgun lock below. 

I passed on a very nice set of continental cap lock pistols recently.  The barrels were rifled with straight rifling.   I should have bought them to use as inspiration.  I have never taken apart a nice original cap lock pistol.  I am re-inventing the wheel. 

[Clint]

Since the mainspring is not usable, I would try to bend the fixed end if the spring up to get clearance. I havenot tried to bend a cast spring to that degree, but if you are consigned not to use it, the bend won't be a huge sacrifice if it breaks. The new bend will put the fixed point of the spring a little farther forward, which should benefit the fit and get the pressure point away from the bottom of the drum. You always have the option of making a new spring.